Another thing is space permits. I would have a separate bench or at least a dedicated space away from everything else as your glue up area. Don't need a big area. Cover the bench with a cheap piece of 1/8 inch plywood. Make a mess on the bench no big deal just occasionally replace the plywood. In my case I am limited on space. I have a rolling cart that fits under my bench. Pull that out and do a
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One lighting tip. Install undercabinet lighting under your bench. I used the stick on led tape lighting. Real nice when you drop something small to be able to look down and usually be able to see it immediately instead of searching the shadows.
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Carbon fiber skin foam core. One piece rod no access to a lathe. Would just say screw it and use it as is but afraid the crack might grow. Light action rod very slow action flexs through the grip. Went ahead and ordered a new blank and grip.
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Need some advice on a problem new to me. Glued up a rear grip and IPS seat. Everything looked good. After glue set I checked everything out. Fore grip was noticeably off when tightened. Started investigating and found a crack in the seat allowing flex when tight on the reel seat. SON of A.... Looked it over thought of a few things to try but nothing is going to make me happy other than 100 percen
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I am in a cold weather state. I have gotten in the habit of ordering in fall double what I think I will need on any cold sensitive products. Never know when something ain't gonna be quite right. I have been bit too many times by thinking it should be ok.
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Hope things stay the same or nearly so. Forum reminds me early days of forums in general. Forums used to draw fully engaged people seeking knowledge advice and company of like minded folks. You had to seek things out and want to be there. You also did not hide behind the anonymity of the internet and act disrespectful.This is one of only a small handful of forums I frequent that are still like th
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If your using braid that should be perfect with a 2000 to 3000 series reel. More I experiment I am coming to the conclusion with braid of most any weight that a third reduction is not really needed. Mono over 6 pound I think a third is needed.
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Ring height not size will effect how your reduction train performs or does not perform. Taller guide typically will allow use of a smaller ring. Which alot of times is a bit lighter giving the advantage of weight reduction. Probable the most common reduction train used for spinning is 16 8 5 in either Fuji KLH or Pac Bay Match. I use almost exclusively Pac Bay minimas. After the reduction train
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If you can't find a suitable plug fill it with epoxy. I have used epoxy as a filler of gaps and holes. A liquid works best. I dye it black using ground up natural charcoal. Just scrub it on some 80 grit to make some dust. To plug a grip hole pack some paper or cotton ball into the blank. Pour the dyed epoxy into the hole of the grip. Hardest part is keeping the rod vertical upside down. With a s
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Keep in mind you want a bit of a gap with the aluminum checks. Since they won't flex with the rod you don't want a tight fit on the blank.
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zachary guyach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Michael Sutheimer Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Check out the Matagi HTWC-L checks. Voodoo rods > > sells them. They have a 20mm O.D. but are still > > rather low profile. > > > Voodoos selection starts at 10mm which is way >
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Check out the Matagi HTWC-L checks. Voodoo rods sells them. They have a 20mm O.D. but are still rather low profile.
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Which model did you get? I built a FX601-1-B. Excellent all purpose stream trout rod. Last spring I got a 17" brown out of a creek about three foot wide on the rod. Bigger fish than I expected to use the rod on but it worked just fine.
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They will send you a new. Which will also probably suck. I have up after three attempts. Seems for some reason when you pull off the backing the adhesive goes cloudy.
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Well that makes it too simple. Thanks
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Trying to figure out how best to apply finish the vertical face of of a carbon fiber grip. Here are the details. I am trying to use a aluminum winding check. This particular grip has a rather aggressive texture to the weave, red and black forecast. The check does not sit very well. It looks centered but it is sitting on high spots and a noticeable gap can be seen in the low spots. More than a ac
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Thanks for the quick reply. My OCD kicks in trying to get a section of finish longer than a guide wrap perfectly level, never ends well..
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Recently purchased a CTS spin blank. Came factory labeled. Not a big fan of labels mainly the application and finishing of them. Anyways I will live with the label since it is already on the blank. Wondering how durable these labels are if I don't finish over them. If it where to wear off evenly over time fine but I don't want it to flake away and look terrible after just a couple uses. Thought
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If anything a locking wrap provides a better surface for the epoxy to adhere to...maybe. I see no need I have never pulled a guide. First step when I finish a guide is completely filling the guide tunnel with epoxy. Then bring it onto the guide wrap. See a lot of rods factory and custom where the tunnel seems an after thought. Wrap is finished nice but the finish is stopped at the guide leg and
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Micky the stripper guide is what I call the first guide in your reduction train, your largest guide. I use a 1/4 of the length of that guide foot to establish the length prior to the guide foot for all the reduction guides. Example stripper guide foot is 40mm. I would wrap 10mm before the guide foot for all reduction guides. I do this as to my eye the transition to the guide foot is so noticeable
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I have been using Gen 4 light build. Build a lot of UL rods. The Gen 4 for me maintains the perfect consistency as I work from the thin tip section to the butt, perfect potlife and very gradual kickoff.
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For that amount of difference use masking tape dry wall tape and epoxy. A narrow band of tight fitting masking tape on each end as arbors to line everything up. Wrap of mesh drywall tape about every two inches between the masking. Then a gel epoxy like rod bond. This would be he gold standard. Now the easy should be just fine route is just some masking tape arbors. Pack each edge of tape with
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It is really personal preference. Some people like just enough thread to start the wrap prior to the guide foot. Others like myself use a bit more. I tend to use about a quarter of the stripper guide length as my wrap prior to the foot for all my reduction guides. Any trim wraps I count the number of wraps. For my runner guides I again go approx quarter of the guide foot. I measure all my wraps
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Don't know how heavy a rod this is. If it anything med or less once you sand you may want to top coat with a light build finish. Say you already applied epoxy heavy might look excessive with another coat of high build. Also IMO light build tends to level better when you are going over a uneven surface which you will have no matter how careful you sand.
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Ben guilty as charged lol. True a lob cast is just fine with float and bait which is probably at least double the weight rating of most UL blanks. And some delicate live baits require such a cast. Now as Ul fisherman evolve, as a lot do, you start fishing true UL baits and the lob cast ain't doing much for you. As with all fishing, technique needs to mesh with equipment. True UL fishing has a ve
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Casting technique plays a lot into things as well. A technique that does not match the rod weight and action will not properly load it. See it a lot with people that step down to UL fishing. They don't realize the actually force that needs to be put into a cast. Ul rods are much more of a snap of the wrist cast. The more gentle full forearm lob type cast might work fine with everything else but
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Not only rod weight rating but rod action needs to taken into consideration for casting. I tend to use a moderate action as my my decision point when all else will be equal. Mod or less I will step down in power modfast and up I will not. For example. If i want a light weight/power rod that for whatever reason will suit me best as a moderate action. I will find a blank that matches all specs as c
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I am going to try and straighten it out.Hard to ream it without wobble. About mid third is tight on the reamer front and back third are sloppy. Then it's an UL so I am worried I might end up with a front gap that's hard to hide with a winding check. Thinking for the 9 bucks the grip cost it's worth the lack of frustration of just starting with a new one.
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They seem no different than any other. Maybe a ouch a harder. Core is a very light grey color.
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I had reamed and fitted last weekend. Fit exactly how I wanted was a drop on straight fit. Went to glue up this weekend and encountered the problems.
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