Norm's suggestion is not only the easiest and best resolution, it's also the sanest.
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I find that Lynn's answer is the best yet. I would put the intended reel on the rod and go cast what you normally would use with it. What size, and type of line are you using? As long as you're keeping your knots (if any) small and they easily pass through the guides without hanging up on them, you ought to be fine.
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Phil, unless I'm mistaken, the sleeve acts essentially like the chinese finger puzzle; so no loop to loop connection is involved.
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red/black full length tartan
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another tartan wrap I am working on
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Full length of the wrap
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Just the start of the rod I am building for a friend in New Zealand.
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Mark, get yourself an old school rock cod rail plate. The downside is your can't adjust it's position during a fight with a tuna. I understand your desire for optimal performance. Perhaps you're overthinking the issue?
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David, if you would prefer the size 8 ring on your tip top, why not add a layer of thread to build it up to fit a tip with a size 8 ring?
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Danny, I would not use those guides for anything less than 60# and pulling hard. More like 80#. There are better choices available anymore. With that said, if you like them, by all means, use them and be happy. :-) That's what custom building is all about.
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I wouldn't worry so much about the breaking strength of the lone you are using. You mentioned using #65 braid so are you fishing #65 of drag? I doubt it. I would just base my choice closer to the my drag settings.
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Another factor to consider: Will the seat accommodate the reel you want to use for that specific build? By that, I am asking if the hoods will hold it securely. Will the reel be stable? Will the seat allow you to attach and remove it easily?
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I have built flyrods that were coated with nothing more than color preserver. In the 17 years that I fished them, I never had a guide pull out or anything else detrimental. The single foot Fuji guides were never a problem. And that was before locking wraps became a 'thing'. Your mileage may vary...
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Redoing the deck on sportfishing boats is often done annually. I recall a sportboat in San Diego using course walnut shell bits mixed with either paint or FG resin. Great traction but @#$%& to pay if you somehow did and hit the deck. Pretty damn aggressive stuff. As for using it for blasting, I will defer to the knowledge of the others that posted responses. It just seems extra aggressive to me.
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Norman is correct. It's not a DHG. It's essentially the same frame style as a USG, which was a later style in SIC ring that set directly into the frame. The guide you show had a nylon shock shock ring encapsulating an aluminum oxide insert.
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You might want to take a look at steelhead blanks, in the length, etc, you want, as well.
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Pretty much all epoxy finishes are user friendly if used with manufacturers directions. It's when we do the human things, adding to it with our ideas(or those from others) that we encounter difficulties. Shortcuts and extra steps can backfire on us. Don't get me wrong, I started with varnishes and moved on to Tenaco and Fullerplast before FlexCoat became the standard. I've also tried others sin
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Ben, that is understood. I will try to explain my response. Sometimes, people will try to cobble together what they already have to avoid the expense of buying more parts and pieces. As you explained, you will have to purchase more rod supports. Understood from your original post. Given that at some point, many may wish to upgrade to a power set-up. One thing that works, is to create a base platf
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While I can't speak to the ability to interchange components between the manufacturers of the components and track sections, I have a thought. Take your unused 6' section and cut it into three pieces. Use each of these for a base of newly purchased rod supports. The track sections can then be aligned in a fashion by using inexpensive wood strips or even lengths of aluminum, or other material. It
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Robert, that @#$%& about cataract surgery. I'm long overdue for that myself. May things improve for you with that.
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Robert, you may want, as mentioned above, to start with ponds. Mostly for bluegill and bass. That way, they can get the mechanics down of handling the rods and casting basics. Then move on to moving waters. There are ponds all through the Metro area. Some that come to mind are near the Adams County Fairgrounds. Additionally, there are several lakes on the Rocky Mountain Wildlife Refuge. The latte
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Glenn, wrong hood size? Or wrong barrel size? Or are you looking for a triggered fixed hood seat?
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I would suggest doing a mock build at full length and simulating fighting a 'hoo with the help of a friend. Just because it looks too long, doesn't equate to being wrong. If it is too long, go with a shorter blank. FYI, Long range anglers fishing off Baja routinely use 6 1/2 to 8 ft rods to cast heavy metal jigs for wahoo. An Avet 50 represents a significant cost, so I get the double duty as a
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Same here Grant. Haven't been able to for a long time on my phone. My PC does have that feature. Cool idea Mark. Just imagine the floating effect if done over several thick coats of epoxy. I have come up with some very nice 3D effects with marbling doing that.
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What type of fishing? Cast, spin, fly? Comedians out of work everywhere, and you're telling jokes for free? ;-)
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Way more rod than you need. Why the aluminum butt? You will get more enjoyment from fishing a lighter rod built with a 7 foot, 30 pound class blank. Build the handle on the blank.
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Try Calstar or Seeker gaff blanks. When all else fails, go with cane/bamboo like the commercial guys.
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Drew, can you actually verify your statement that no CP is the best? I used FlexCoat CP on some flyrods that never got coated with an epoxy finish. I also never had any issues as a result. I frequently use multiple coats of CP over regular nylon thread. I have found that more coats can really make a difference in the overall color and sheen of the thread. I have used up to 6 coats, maybe even
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To find Herb's pictures,click on the grips and handle assemblies link. Scroll down to the bottom of the page. You will see the Members be List link. Click that and it will show links to each letter of the alphabet. Click on H for Herb. It will show various members galleries. Click on Herb Canter's handle assembly pics.
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