My fingers were giving problems hand wrapping, this made it much easier. Finishing is a breeze.
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I've had mine for a year and a half now and it is a great wrapper and finisher. I can't imagine not having it and all they say is true. With the help from all of these nice folks on this forum, my wraps and finishing have never looked better. There is not much I can add to what has been already said, it's a fine wrapper.
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I have used the regular shrink tube from different online stores and it may not be quite as grippy as the flocked stuff, but it is much less expensive, and you can find some that is made in USA. I put a layer of fiberglass tape under mine and it really looks good and the grip is fine. I like to support the ones on the left and I do, at least 95% of what I spend goes to them but they should really
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Phil, I bought a North Fork Fast Glass back in Feb. at the rod show. At 2.4 oz for a 7'4" fiberglass blank, that is very impressive and I'd say a major improvement over any glass rod I've ever held. But I think you already know this stuff. You must be bored today.
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I bought a box of "Roxy Epoxy" pearl tinting powder online and it comes with many different colors. Using just a little makes it very translucent, use a lot and it is opaque. I believe it comes in a solid color kit as well but the pearl kit maybe a viable choice for you. Sorry, I forgot the link. A lot of pigments for a good price.
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Mark, I was going after that look a month or so ago and tried the Permagloss and YLI thread on a light gray blank and it looked pretty good but was not invisible like I'd hoped. I put the project on hold and I haven't tried anything else yet but I hope to get back to it soon.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If it doesn't make sense, don't use it. No need to get smart about it, I think I had already figured that out long before your comment. It was simply an observation. Not quite sure why you had to say anything.
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Interesting. I wonder if you can use a heat gun to install them rather than boiling water. They look grippy. The longest is 16 inches which is not long enough for any of the surf rods I do, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
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It is truly a great wrapper and backed by a good American company. Kudos to John Cates. He is very helpful when called upon. My wraps and finishing just keep getting better with every rod.
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John DeMartini Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I do the Norman Miller way. No muss no fuss. Same here. It's really taken my wraps to the next level. Thank you, Norman.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nothing was changed - that coating has been used > on all RodMaker covers for over two decades, but I > appreciate the nod. Sometimes it might be a > applied a bit more generously I suppose. You'll > enjoy Mel's book even if it's a bit long in the > tooth now. > > ........... It was ve
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Tom, the added touch of the aqueous coating to the cover of Rod Maker this month was a nice one. I work in a very large print shop and I couldn't help but notice the change. You have at least one person that looks over the quality of your publication with a fine tooth comb! I've only skimmed it so far but the tip about Mel Marshall's book was great too. I've found one on the net and ordered it, i
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That's dark, man. Really dark. I'd pursue this one if I were you.
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Mark Talmo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fred, > Don’t feel rained on!!! I questioned the exact > same thing when I first started building rods and > I am certain others before me did as well. You are > among the others who will undoubtedly continue to > question guide ring sizes. > In reality, the present system is really silly, &g
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Steve Chontos Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I get it Fred, if you are going to standardize > anything, I feel like it should be the inside > diameter. No matter what the ring material is, > make the I.D. the same and let the O.D. vary. EXACTLY! Everything else we seem to do or talk about is so precise, but i.d. ring size? Ehh, it's not impor
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Peter Yawn Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Also remember that the KR page on the Anglers > resource will tell you what size the butt guide > should be. As Herb said, it's more about height > (angle) than ring size. Keep in mind that the KR > concept is for braided line. It's probably not > great for heavy mono or fluoro. And that is w
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If Norm says buy a 30, buy a 30. If Norm says buy > a zebra, buy a zebra. If Norm tells me to buy a zebra, I'm gonna want to know why he wants me to buy a zebra, Jim.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Metal ringed guides are measured inside to inside. > Ceramic ringed guides are measured to the outside > to outside of the ring, or the inside to inside of > the frame. > > There is no absolute rule that your butt guide be > 1/2 the diameter of the spool diameter. It is a > general rule
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Fred, > This has confused me in the far past but have > since gotten over it. When a Fuji app is telling > you to use a 30 mm guide they are telling you to > use a Fuji 30 mm guide that is measured from the > OD of the ring, that does not take into account > the type of ring / thickne
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks Jim. > That’s just the convention for the way guides > are sized, by OD not ID. Most rod builders > understand this. If an insert is not used, like > the old metal guides by Mildrum, Varmac, and > others, the OD and ID will be the same. If there > is an insert used, the ID will alwa
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But Norm, that does not answer the question. If you tell me to use 30-20-12-10-10-10-10-10, what are you saying? If I were to go buy those guides, I would not be getting 30-20-12-10-10-10-10, they would all be smaller and the largest ones would be a lot smaller. It is pretty clear that a 40mm guide is really a guide with a 30mm ID, but how to I take your answer? I know I am making sense here. Whe
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So, I built a 10' surf rod for a spinner. Using the KR concept, my spool is 60mm, which means my stripper guide, or butt guide should be half that, which would be 30mm. I noticed in the sizing chart that for every guide size listed is NOT the true inside diameter. they are smaller, all of them. If I wanted a 30mm butt guide and stay true to the diameter that I needed, I would use the 40mm guide
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Shane, I've been using Fish Hawk 638 Teal Nylon thread. On a black or gray blank it turns to a really pretty midnight blue without color preserver. What I like about this thread is I can get many shades of teal/blue depending on the blank color and it does not look too dark like some nylon thread will do. I also used it on a pearl white blank and it popped like anything. A very versatile thread.
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Agreed, this forum is priceless to me. Everyone here is very friendly and professional. I only hope one day I will have the expertise that many of you do so I too, can share more from experience. It took some time for the reality of it all to set in and that this is a journey, not a race.
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Fred Zimmermann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Joseph Willsen Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > I am confused??? I never pull the starter tag > end > > through the wrap....I always just cut it off > and > > leave the tag end laying against the rod and > wrap > > over it. &
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Joseph Willsen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am confused??? I never pull the starter tag end > through the wrap....I always just cut it off and > leave the tag end laying against the rod and wrap > over it. > > I start the wrap several turns before the place > where I actually want the first thread to be. > After 3 or 4 turns
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I've got a rod to build so I will try these methods. Really, it's not bad, just annoying, and I'm a perfectionist, which can even be more annoying in my head. I'm very close to getting that first coat of epoxy to go on the way it should. You all are very helpful, many thanks.
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I see to be the exception for the norm. SNAFU is what I call it. I wrap tight, all nice and snug, can't see anything wrong until the first coat of epoxy, yet it protrudes. I'll try Aaron's way. It's the last hurdle for clean wraps, everything else is looking really good and I'll get over it.
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I didn't want to high jack the other thread (ha, thread, get it?) so I started this one. I have mastered the pull through at the end of the wrap and it's a major improvement, but I still get nubs from when I initially begin the wrap. I wrap about five wraps and then cut, I can't seem to cut it close enough and I always have to trim the nubs after the first coat.
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I just built one of two of the Tommy Farmer blanks. The 12' 3-7oz is what I've built and the 13' 3-6oz is next. I haven't fished the 12' yet but the tip is pretty stiff. Same with the 13. They are beautiful rod blanks with a unorganized pattern in the strands. Very different from what I've ever seen. Both are 50/50 split. It really depends on what you are fishing for though. We catch whiting and
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