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4 days ago
Mark Talmo
Lynn, I am leaning in that direction as well. Norman, I certainly cannot argue. I have already tried ThreadMaster, but the light version while I know you prefer the regular. While it has yellowed a bit in the last few months, it appears to be much less than any other finish I have tested with the exception of CTS Crystal Coat; I have not tried Hitena. I have witnessed talk of the Gen4 and am cur
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Mark Talmo
Nick, At the risk of sounding remote or uninterested, try both out and see what you ultimately prefer. Norman, you make me feel bad because my Mommy told to “waste not, want not” and it was also years ago yet still worthy and wise. However, after cleaning my FlexCoat brushes in acetone for the first year or so, I tried Roger Wilson’s suggestion of using disposable children’s art brushes from Wal
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Mark Talmo
No one could argue that point!!! 2X from me as well.
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you to all who took the time to reply. Michael, I live in So Cal but do not know how cold the UPS trucks were delivering my order. While I cannot be certain, it may be unlikely excessive cold caused my issue. But then, my previous oxidation and/or UV contamination observations can almost be ruled-out as well. Billy, I wanted to learn more unbiased opinions before contacting ProKote. Roge
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks again, Tom. I suspect you may be correct in that it was simply old stock. But it must have been extremely old stock if that much darker (and noticeably darkening further each week) than my present 2-3 year old on-hand supply. That is what has me baffled. Once again, I should have immediately returned it. I am still interested in other’s experiences, ideas and comments. Please offer your o
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Mark Talmo
Tom, Thank you for the reply. While I have experienced and agree with you that all epoxy hardeners will eventually “turn” as you stated, I am concerned with why this new bottle has turned immensely darker over a considerably shorter period of time than any of the previous bottles of the same brand hardener. Did you get an opportunity to view the comparison photo? Although I was not fortunate eno
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Mark Talmo
Through my composite experience, I am aware that virtually all epoxies will eventually yellow, some more than others. Whether in the cured state or still liquid in the bottle/can, this can be most commonly due to oxidation or UV factors. In my five years of rod building, I have experienced yellowing, even browning, of the thread finish hardener while still in the bottle, but not to an excessive,
Forum: rodboard
12 days ago
Mark Talmo
Glen, There is a huge difference between “rod (blank) finish” and “thread finish” and I am not certain to which you are referring. When referring to coating a blank, U40 PermaGloss has become the industry standard; it is a one-part, moisture-curing urethane which produces a very nice finish on blanks and some even use it for thread wraps as well. It applies very thinly to avoid excessive weight
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
Mark Talmo
Scott, As you apparently discovered, I have found JTOBs generally look better if the main thread is darker and the inlayed leaves are lighter; it seems to hold true with modified JTOBs as well. I use various forms of JTOBs frequently and have not experienced any issue with them “showing” with either A or D thread.
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
Mark Talmo
Chris, I personally prefer the KWs over the MNs or LNs, even if the RV is 90* and the KWs are slanted. The KWs are just a great guide in every aspect. Hopefully Norman is still viewing your post and will afford his opinion. Maybe even Jim Isling will comment. I will continue viewing your post to learn from the veterans.
Forum: rodboard
16 days ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, Consider a concerted effort to not attempt discovering any more “new ways to break a rod” LOL. Sorry about the rod.
Forum: rodboard
17 days ago
Mark Talmo
Tom, Herb is correct on all counts. He may have misunderstood your question though. I think you were asking if a shinny clear coat will bring out/enhance the appearance of the fiber weave = yes. While it will add weight to the rod, the tip section in particular, the amount is minimal and probably undetectable to the majority of fishermen, even fly fishermen. One thin coat of U40 PermaGloss will
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Mark Talmo
While one might initially assume attaching a conventional reel to a rod with only a bottom clamp and no seat might allow the reel to spin on the grip, three of my frequent fishing buddies have a total of five seatless rods used for yellowtail and none have experienced reel slippage. While I personally do not particularly care for the set-up, I have witnessed them landing 25lb YT which the general
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
Touché’ Michael, I agree.
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
Peter, One other thing to consider; if the (conventional) reel has a bottom clamp, no seat is required.
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
2 X Norman’s suggestion.
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
Carl, I forgot to address the title of your topic; a lathe will do all a power wrapper can do but a power wrapper cannot do all a lathe can. Ultimately, the best case scenario is to have a separate wrapper and lathe, mostly to confine shaping dust generated from turning grips AWAY from the wrapper where you will be performing thread and finish operations. My shop has restricted space and thus do
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
David, 2X Roger’s suggestion although you may not need the heat.
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I am surprised the bottle of System 20 did not offer suggested usage quantities. If it is anything like a similar product, “Smoothie”, a few drops per quart is all that is needed, in your case maybe just one drop. DO NOT FORGET, each and every coat of epoxy over a previous one containing the fish-eye additive will also require the additive!!!
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Mark Talmo
Many overlook the rotation direction of the common, one way AC motors installed on most power wrappers. These units will only wrap from behind and over the top toward you. Many are comfortable with that direction and so be it. However, I find wrapping from low, in front and over the top away from me MUCH more natural and easier when performing more intricate wraps involving frequently adding/drop
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Mark Talmo
James, Fuji still makes their Ti frame K series guides but now only available in Torsite or SiC rings. Alconite was dropped from the Ti guides about three years ago, much to the dismay of many, myself included. None the less, I am still a Fuji fan!
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Mark Talmo
Peter, I have not used a plate type reel seat, although I build numerous Tennessee handles. My understanding is the plate type seats are meant to only be taped in place, possibly temporarily wrapped (zip-tied?), to afford the luxury of repositioning the seat to whatever location a specific fishing situation may dictate. I am interested to learn what experienced others have to say. I hope this he
Forum: rodboard
26 days ago
Mark Talmo
Stan, You have just confirmed you are like everyone else; you make (forgetful) mistakes at times. I commend your honesty. The sign of a true craftsman is one who can not only cover-up a mistake, but make it better than originally planned. Ponder over it for a while before removing the stripper. David and Spencer have offered valid thoughts to consider. On the other hand, Jeff has offered a valid
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Mark Talmo
Jeremy, Herb has offered good advice through veteran experience. I agree that the rod has been compromised through extensive sanding. How much it has been compromised is anyone’s guess. You will gain no strength whatsoever with the addition of more epoxy! As you mentioned, and at this point I agree, glue the tip top back on and fish it! You have nothing to lose and can possibly gain a valuable
Forum: rodboard
27 days ago
Mark Talmo
Jack, I anticipate you receiving quite a few replies. In the grand scheme of things, one, two or multiple coats of thread finish is a personal preference; there is not a correct of wrong number of coats. Obviously, one coat requires the least amount of time. Beside personal preference, there are a number of factors which may dictate the need of additional coats. The most common is probably the s
Forum: rodboard
29 days ago
Mark Talmo
The metric system is emphatically easier than the U.S. jumble of odd measurements for weight, length and volume; 16oz = 1lb, 12in = 1ft, 3ft = 1yard, and my favorite, 5280ft = 1 mile; now there is a nice, round number!!! The metric system employs the simplicity of a “base-10” to all measurements whether weight, length or volume. In the U.S. we have different “bases” for weight, length and volume
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Mark Talmo
Mike, Apparently, U40 PermaGloss has become the go-to industry standard for blank finishing. After acquiring the proper technique, it applies easily, dries quickly, being humidity-catalyzed requires no mixing, and affords a fairly durable finish. I find it to be less durable than many make it out to be though. Also, due to its make-up including Zylene, it is very “hot” and one needs to be extrem
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, Incorporating an incandescent light bulb for heat, and subsequent light as well, is inexpensive and one can simply change the wattage to achieve the desired heat in the cabinet. I used a small computer fan to gently circulate the air over the bulb and down the length of my cabinet; this does require employing an air return from the far end of the cabinet back to the fan but can be acco
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Mark Talmo
Carl, Similar to Roger, I perform the necessary operations first; fit and install the grips and reel seat, then position the reduction and running guides, wrap the guides and apply one light coat of epoxy finish. I prefer to wrap and finish the guides in the same day, if possible, to minimize contamination and the possibility of the threads going “boink”. Although rarely doing elaborate butt wra
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Mark Talmo
Phil, In my structural composite hay-day, there were a number of U.S. CF, FG and aramid weavers, some of which produced pre-preg as well. Hexcel was the dominate one in the U.S. and probably still is. Over the past 15 years or so, the Japanese company, Toray, has become a world-wide respected manufacturer of CF, possibly more dominate than Hexcel. Soller Composites used to be a weaver and Jon S
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 39

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