Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > That's the problem - your test didn't mimic real > world on the water situation when the rod is going > to be loaded by a fish on a line running through > guides. If you want to know what the rod is > actually going to do, you have to load it with the > line, through the guides, and the load on t
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ben belote Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > it was the lever arm effect that flipped the > reel > > not the spine..lol. > > > That's very true. No matter where you orient the > spine, any load through the guides will turn the > ro
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ben belote Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > it was the lever arm effect that flipped the > reel > > not the spine..lol. > > > Instead of running a line through the guides and > loading the rod, tye to just the tip guide and > load
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Guy Taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Reading the responses to this thread I get the > idea that rod spine is of little importance to > many custom rod builders. If this is the case, why > is so much effort spent on teaching people how to > find the spine and what to do with it? There is > tons of information out there from blank >
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Thanks everyone, I can always trust ill get good answers here. Nick
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Good morning, The single use brushes are getting tiresome. I get good results but am considering switching to washable brushes. Pros and cons? Recommendations on brush type? Any help is appreciated, thanks! Nick
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If Im not mistaken, Phenix switched to doing their own components in-house under the brand Essex. Ive used some Essex seats and they seem fine. No experience with anything else though. Nick
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Or just do a single over without an under wrap Have fun! Nick
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Depends on the rod for me but typically threads toward the butt. Bass rods with triggers you wont have a choice, light rods fishing under 10# of drag doesn't seem to matter either. Anything heavier, I typically have the threads toward the butt whenever possible. Fishing heavy line / drag, it pulls the reel forward. If the threads are in the front and the reel seat loosens, its really hard to
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Seeker Tac80H if you can get it out on the east coast. New blank, great feel. Nick
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I would definitely recommend Seeker for any type of heavy fishing as far as the blank is concerned.
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Thanks for sharing David, great read. Nick
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I wouldn't warm the blank and then put finish on, rather reverse that order. Put the finish on, then warm it. The finish will absorb the heat so it doesn't transfer as much to the blank, also thinning it out considerably allowing it to soak into your wraps. Best of luck, Nick
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There's a bit of a mismatch, though much of what you've chosen is really boiled down to preference. The blank seems fine, I would only use a 24 size seat if I needed to as a 20 or 22 would probably be just fine. Typically I try and match the seat relatively close to the blank, or just a little bigger to match the handle if I had to. Being an NFC, its probably narrower, and to use a size 24 sea
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Im with Roger
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If by sensitivity you mean the vibrations from the line being felt in the handle, then deco wraps wont necessarily dampen sensitivity. The vibrations travel from the line, to the tip top, to the tip of the blank, and through the blank to the handle. The added thread and epoxy may however add weight to the blank itself, reducing overall recoil and responsiveness (depending on the wrap to blank p
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Seeker has their blanks rolled in Washington, factory rods assembled in California. Made in the USA and they have a large selection of fiberglass and graphite composite rods that would be worth looking into. Give them a call, here's the phone # from the website 714-769-1700. I always get someone on the line. Best of luck Nick
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Those are good choices, the 20 vs 25 strip guide is always a question on those 50-60# rods. I would say the 16 being wider will suit the 25mm better (7660), and a 12 would be fine with a 20mm (7650). Personally for that rod if you using HB guides and are planning to use 9, you can go with a direct reduction train. 25, 20, 16, 12, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, tip (or start with 20 if that is what you wa
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Sure, data can show spine is irrelevant objectively in terms of casting and breakage, but what about subjective reports on how it feels. Heck we have folks building spiral wraps for the subjective feel of a rod and how it is stabilized, but I'd be surprised if data shows that spiral wraps also cast further or catch more fish. Bottom line is that the spine exists, and we wouldn't be talking abou
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No hotter than my hands can handle, typically is what I do.
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I do a little of both. Obviously for decorative wraps, a lot are done by hand. Normally I start the wrap by hand and transition to power, then back to hand if i need to do quick trim bands etc. Took a little getting used to, but now it's turned into second nature. Whats important is dialing the pedal so you have really good control over what you're doing.
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Hmm interesting, heavier load on a short slow rod so the majority of the bend is occurring closer to the transition. Also tough because the the butt guide is probably larger, taller, exaggerating the angle of the side load. Will it succeed by reducing the angle of the first guide? During the load, the second guide with pull the line toward the side of the ring on the direction of rotation. An
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Being a slow blank, what's the application? Trolling, crankbait, live bait, etc? Nick
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IMO spiral wrapped rods find their benefit in only a few specific applications. The idea that a line pulling on the guide will stabilize the rod only makes sense if you define stabilization as having the reel facing opposite to the direction of pull. In most cases, it' going to be vertical fishing (bottom and jigging). Otherwise, when fishing away from the boat, the position of the rod takes o
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Mark, I truly believe that is the journey for all of us who build rods. Sometimes its after the build I realize I maybe could have chosen a better blank to build upon. The literature available that describes how blanks are made and what rods feature what characteristics certainly help, though I feel like the builders who make the best blank choices are those who fish often and for many differen
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Thanks everyone, Ill have to take it apart when I get off work. I have some trouble shooting to do especially with all the great suggestions. Keep posted for the update. I may end up just getting a new motor.
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Hi guys, Ive had this AT power wrapper for about 4-5 years now with pretty consistent use. I love it, but noticed that over time, I have had to gradually dial up the power over time to get the same power and control that I usually work with. Now I am at the end of the dial and its where I want it for now, but I fear Im just going to lose power in the near future. So far I have: - cleaned
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Ive built a few salmon trolling rods for a charter operation with them based on the captains request and they work really well. It is really important that you make sure you get the right size guides as the guide feet are convex and fit specific diameters according to where it is along the blank you are going to put them. Below is copied from the Aftco website : "All of the LW roller
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Jay, what Jim suggested to do was to simply present his questions about the blank to Randy. The question was about the blanks, not simply "are they the best or not." Second, prostaff for Southern California companies aren't paid, sponsored at a discount maybe. I know pro staff from United Composites and its not like they get everything for free. Its a fair question to ask the owner,
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Cord wraps are extremely common in California, more specifically Southern California. Paracord, or atwood cord works fine with some polyurethane coating, but my personal preference is tarred seine twine, or bank line. It is resistant mold, moldy, and biodegradation. It also wears nicely over time and doesn't require a coating. It doesn't need glue to hold it on, and you can finish it with a d
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