UPDATE: So I went ahead with the color preserver-only wrapping experiment... size A ProWrap nylon thread with one coat of color preserver fixing double-foot guides (size 12 through 30) on a 14' heavy graphite surf blank. Two practice casting sessions and a two-day long distance casting tournament later (throwing 4.5 oz sinkers), the wraps are in excellent shape and the guides are still rock-solid
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I saw a video of a guy - tournament long distance caster - who wanted to keep his rod as light as possible (to minimize altering the blank's action) and make his guides easy to replace (he breaks quite a few). He used thread color preserver on his thread wraps. That was it. No epoxy. A rod building industry expert in the video endorsed the practice, stating that using color preserver alone was to
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I'm looking at getting a Penn Squadron or Okuma's equivalent and customizing the handle configuration... but if the shrink tubing is glued down, I'd rather not mess with them.
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I'm looking for a standard casting or spinning hooded reel seat to replace an "FRPS 28". I assume "28" means 28 mm (it's a surf rod). Anyone have them? Thank you!
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There are fancy zip tie ones, and then also fancy hose clamp type ones. "Not a great idea without something acting as a barrier, or cushion between the reel and the blank." Would the shrink tubing I mentioned be enough?
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Thanks! Are we thinking that coasters on a carbon fiber rod is a bad idea?
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My latest rod build is a Hatteras heaver - about 13', carbon fiber, 22mm diameter at the butt. For the handle I want to do a solid length of shrink tubing (that 'x' pattern stuff from Mudhole) to keep the lower part of the blank protected and so that I can use coasters to mount a conventional reel wherever I want (high-reel, low-reel, etc.). Being as paranoid as I am about a carbon fiber rod,
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I see a lot of long-distance casting surf anglers using low-reel configurations (where you control a conventional reel with your left hand down towards the butt of the rod). Granted, these are mostly tournament casters on Youtube. Has anyone here ever caught a Bull Red or big Striper on, say, a 12'-15' rod with a conventional reel that didn't have a level-wind? Did the lack of leverage present
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For the amount of business that (I think) Mudhole does, it might have been a better idea to have gone the Amazon route: gradually "evolve" their website bit by bit, rather than a one-time overhaul. But it's not too radical a change for Mudhole. The user interface seems to have improved while the basic organization is the same. But I only looked at it for five minutes so far...
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Mudhole.com has a sale on surf rods right now: ...and I didn't get paid to say that.
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Just speaking from experience, if I were Loomis (or any other rod manufacturer) I'd contract a big thread manufacturer to produce custom-dyed thread for me - colors available to no one else. Worth taking Tom's advice, but don't be surprised.
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Surf rods? My favorite. I'm jealous. Let us know how those plate seats hold up.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On an 11 foot surf rod, I would suggest that if > you can get it to balance within a foot of the > reel toward the tip, you will be in good shape. > > It makes 0 sense to add weight to a surf rod, > since for many folks the surf rods just sits in a > rod holder in between casts. >
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"The reel stem" "Where you put your index finger to hold the line." Any other opinions about where an 11' spinning surf rod should balance? Either of the two options I just mentioned will require an 8-12 oz. counterweight added to the butt (not ideal to add that much to the rod on a whole), and the reel is not moveable.
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I'm down to the MinWax Spar Urethane - or - Duplicolor Clear Acrylic Enamel for autos. Is the enamel going to be too brittle for a fishing rod?
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Ken Preston Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > No you can certainly leave the blank "naked" ... > In fact several companies sell 'unfinished' blanks > --- and matte finish blanks are quite popular. Finally, is this a case for underwrapping to protect the "naked" fiberglass from marring by the guide feet? Or if you just file down
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So speaking of guide configuration, is NGC (New Guide Concept) - a system highly dependent on your specific reel - a popular phenomenon for custom rod builders? Or is it a Fuji marketing ploy (it requires more guides, and special Fuji guides at that)?
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That's all great advice, but then let me ask you this: is there anything stupid about NOT putting ANY type of finish on a fiberglass blank (except epoxy where the guides go) and using it bare?
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I'm also wondering if anyone has thought of entering into deals with reel manufacturers to base your rod building model specs on their reel models to create referral customers.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > $150.00 is a good price for labor -- I go $100.00 > - $125.00 But how many hours total, on average, do you spend consulting and working on the rod? If it's ten hours, say, you're only making $10-12.50/hour! Maybe that's where skill and speed becomes the competitive advantage.
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Another question for the pros... How does reel-rod matching figure into your guide layout, color selections, rod balancing, pricing, etc.? Do you ask your customer to pick a reel before you begin working on a rod for them? Do you have certain reel brands and models in mind when you're deciding on cost/price point, color palettes and other configurations for your "mass produced"
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Capt Neil Faulkner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The hardest part for me in the beginning was fear > of REJECTION! It is very real and takes years to > over come. Most had to do with pricing my labor > rate. Other very good builders kept pressing me > to raise my prices. I knew they were right BUT > again fear of REJECTION. Little
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"Marketing comment ... #3 is making yourself available (sometimes for an extended period of time) to discuss the "needs, desires" of the customer; #4 is a solid, well understood repair or replacement guarantee (abuse and fisherman's error is not covered)." That's interesting, Ken... the idea that "consultation" can be a big part of the process. I'd think that's a
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STEVE: "...When a perspective client approaches me about building a rod, the first things I let them know are that; They are looking at a 4-to-6 month waiting period. I only build bass rods. With very few exceptions, I build exclusively for tournament angles. It will be money up front. Minimum cost will be $450.00. If any of these criteria are unacceptable I send them to anot
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Any advice on a reasonably ... -easy -inexpensive -flexible -durable -clear -light-weight ..."Lowe's"-type solution for putting a protective finish on a bare unpainted fiberglass blank? I'm willing to compromise on one or two of the above items. Thank you.
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For those who build rods for a living, or even for supplemental income (in other words, not a hobbyist) what has been your biggest marketing challenge? What have you tried? Do you have all the business you want? Are you, like most true craftsmen, in the shop doing your thing hoping someone hears about you some day? I'm a marketer by trade and am curious about this niche that I have recently so
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As with any topic, there's a lot of conflicting information out there, so... I used a dull knife and Citristrip. And I'm going to stop there as far as taking the finish off. That strip of damage pictured is the only spot where the knife actually touched the blank. I'd still like to take it into an empty field and try a couple of long-distance casts. I'll keep you posted.
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Hope this works... <img src="; /> If you don't see an image above, click this link or copy and paste this URL into your browser's address bar: The woven graphite appears merely to be exposed, not damaged, but they are bare.
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Thanks Tom. Great advice. Same to Don up there. Now where can I find a 3' piece of fiberglass or graphite tube that's tapered with a 15/16" o.d.? I am but an amateur who doesn't have a shop with all kinds of scraps lying around. Any alternatives, like a wooden dowel? Or can I only wrap it up with tow (see Don's response) and pray? By the way, it's a blank from a South Bend Sea Hawk, circa
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