HOLY COW! That video was awesome. Thank you for the information. I did buy a couple of dental spatulas in not knowing how i might try them. I am glad I did now.
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Great advise. thank you all!. I have a variable speed power wraper. I like the idea of many coats. Also, I saw a video where the guy used a coffee filter to cut back excessive epoxy..
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Thanks Robert, and Dominic. I look at commercial rods and they have a big buildup on the guide with a nice tapper ddown to the edge. I have tried differnt ways, but I can't get that look. Do some of you guys use a thicker epoxy that makes it eaiser to make that look? I am using a high buid right now. I tried the tape, but it looks like a shrp edge that needs to be sanded down to a tapp
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I read an article talked about wait 48 hours, scuffing and then apply another coat. Do you still think if sticky after 10-12 you are better off than the 48 hour idea?
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So, first, does anyone put tape aroiund blank next to wrap, to have an even epoxy finish. Second, My wife is doing a lot with epoxy on tables. It is pretty cool. So I tried a little different finish on a test blank, where I sprinkle some dry colored powder into the epoxy after applying a coat. It swirls and looks awesome. This is why I was asking about the tape next to the thread as to kee
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Thank you guys for the advice!!!!!!!!!!!
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Good advise from all. thank you. After all the advise, it is to critical to try and find a substitute. So, I will just order some tomorrow from flex coat. I will and try aand warm up the epoxy i have to see if it will work. thanks everyone...
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Daryl, there is no doubt that I have a management problem...lol But I do not buy my components from where I get my resign. So, I was hoping that someone can give me some ideas as to pick up epoxy that works for the thread at a local area. These companies kind of hide their formula and it is hard to know what may work and what will not work. I am very inconsistent on when I build a rod and for
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One other thought. My wife uses epoxy to do tables and Knick knacks, The 2 products she uses in Famowood Glaze Coat, and Pro Marine Table top epoxy. Has anyone used these or can you tell me what type of epoxy can be used? Should I be looking for a polymer type epoxy?
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Russel, I have never used a gel type epoxy for guide finish. How would you thin it down as to be able to apply with a small brush?
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Good morning all. I went to finish a rod yesterday and found my epoxy hardener jelling up. I could not get an accurate amount to flow. I thought about heating it up, but i am not sure if that would be a good idea. I am tired of having this issue and then having to go get a rod building company to send another bottle that takes days to get. So my question is what do you all use for epoxy an
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I also wanted to comment on reamer tapers. This isn't brain surgery. I see no need to have a ton of different tappers for building rods. I do mine like the FlexCoat video. Run a few cork pieces at a time to fit a specific area on the blank and keep adding to the length as needed. It will all be filled with epoxy to shore up any micro gaps that could occur when gluing. Reaming is reaming it
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Mark, I talked to Scott, He was very helpful. I ended up going with JP Weld Original. It has a heat tolerance of around 500F when cured. Only time will tell if it works. Needs time to cure.
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Mark, thank you for the web page. I will talk to those guys and see what they think. I am power reaming and as Tom suggest, I always blow out my cork before sliding them on the blank. I have bought maybe 8-10 power reamers that just don't last. Maybe I am to rough on them...I don't know but I am looking for a better widget. The sandpaper thing is ok, but maybe, just maybe there is a better
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I have read a few threads on reamers. Very few on cementing loose grit on old blank. I tried one this week with not very good results. I used 5 min epoxy and silicon carbide grit. The heat ended up destroying it. The epoxy was only dried for 2 days. And thinking about it, silicon carbide might have been a bad choice. So I am thinking of aluminum oxide for grit. But, I need a cement tha
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Thank you Herb, email sent.
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Best line selection will be harder than any WF > line. Also I didn't know NFC built a switch blank > that light. I think you are referring to 4 wt, then, no they don't. But a 7wt is pretty standard. I am looking for a 4wt switch though. We have a good Steelhead run here and I was hopping for a 7wt s
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So as Richard stated, the blank I have is a North Fork LMX FASW1107-4 Fly, Switch. It is 132inch. I put a 10wff on it for single handed and it seems to be perfect. I also have a RIO 500gr 2 handed for nymphing. Do you see any issues with this? So if a blank is showing as a 4wt 2 handed, would it not take a 7wt single handed?
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Ok, I saw a thread that showed a 4wt switch using a 4wt wf line. I am confused??? I thought a 4wt switch rod would need a 7wt wfsingle handed line? Am I wrong in that thinking? I have a North Fork 7 wt Switch and I am using a 10 wt wf single handed line on that.
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I am confused. Wouldn't a 4wt switch be a 7wt single handed?
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Don, lol I did not know you were on here...Thanks for your help. Any thoughts on the overlap?
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Thanks Ken, I static test my fly rods. These are the first spinning rods that I have built. I am thinking that I would use the same way to static test the fly rod as a spinning since the guides are on the bottom? Would you agree? I also saw a video on spacing spinning rods with one extra guide towards the tip. It was suppose to make the action better for jigging. Would you agree with that?
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Hi guys, Ok, so I have 2 Rainshadow 6'2" spinning rod blanks (fast and xfast) for walleye jigging. From an earlier post, it was suggested to place reel seat at around 8 to 10 inches from the butt. With the microwave guides, I now have, they overlap of how American would space the guides. They have a 2 step process in measuring. First is to measure from the lip of the spool and plac
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Steve 2 questions. 1 for jigging, is it better to have your reel seat farther up the tip for feel. Having said that, 2 why not just lock the reek and move your hands to have leverage to net the fish? thanks
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I have to agree. Not worth it.
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Roger, what if you trimed the foot of the reel?
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Thank you Michael..
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Thank you Michael. Which number 17 style do you like? I buy from a lot of companies but almost all for fly rods. So I am not the familiar with spinning rod seats.
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Awesome info! Michael, I will custom make my cork for all the parts. I am thinking of using a number 16 reel seat. Your rods are beautiful. My only recommendation on the last pic would be to change the logo to a M. lol Just kidding. Do you live in Michigan? I do in the western part of the state. But thank you so much on helping me here. I was worried about balance as I know for feel i
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Thanks Roger! About how from the back on a 6 foot rod would start the reel seat?
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