Email nfc your numbers and they'll help you out. That's what I did and had a reply the next day. The decimal blanks ended up being a listed model that was supposed to be trimmed to that length.
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Thomas Kaufmann Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ray were you ever able to identify your blanks? > I am looking for > 709 > 7379 > 7383 > 336 > 7308 > I’ve looked through the catalogs that I have > found and am still coming up empty handed. > > Thanks > Tom I had a handful of blanks not in the catalog. I emailed
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I've ordered a few but haven't fished them yet. Paint jobs are flawless and actions feel nice. From order to delivery was about a week, pretty darn good. Another nice thing is the pricing on the blank is the total you'll pay. There isn't any additional charge for the color or shipping.
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Not always but typically a manufacturer lists the rods specs related for the application it's designed for. In this case it's designed for trolling a certain weight. Trolling a couple ounce puts a lot less stress on a rod than casting a couple ounces. There is no issue with it in respects to casting. It will cast. The potential problem is will it cast what the specs are. I'm guessing probably not
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Beautiful looking blank and it should fit that heavier market nicely. I'll echo what Chris said about hopefully producing blanks in the 9-11ft range. I was ready to buy it if there were any way that I could use it for plugging.
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The lighter version is rated 1.5-3oz on the cts website. The ratings are off on both and the 2-4oz is more like 3/4-2.5oz in actuality. I hardly ever use the 1.5-3oz because it throws the lighter stuff marginally better but tops out around 2oz. Talking full power casts, of course you can back off and throw a little more with each rod.
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Derick Jahnke Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So has no one had hands on a GSB AND say a Vapor > Trail to compare? Are there any builders in the > Willamette valley that have had a chance to > compare the 2? You said that the vapor trail was out of you price range. The 10' 2-4oz would fit the description of what you're looking for though.
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Ok, thanks again for the help! Thank you for going through the trouble of finding all the issues covering the topic.
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Thank you guy's. I'll try cleaning it out to see if that helps. I already took a little off the spigot (Male end) and it was still tightening up in the same spot as before. Any chance that I could rub some chalk on the spigot and put it together. That would allow me to see the point where contact isn't being made.Then I could put the rod in a lathe and sand a tiny bit off the spigot so it would s
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do the two sections bottom out on each other or is > there still some gap through which you can see the > spigot? > > .......... There is a good gap, about 1/4-3/8".
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Thank you guys for the reply. The blank is kind of an odd ball in that it's a 12' surf rod. I've had it for quite a few years but if I remember correctly it was one of those "OEM" deeply discounted sale blanks from mudhole. I might call them to see if I can get any manufacturer info but I'm not expecting they'll have much. That's the only reason I haven't done it yet. I've never used an
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Hi, I've got a rod that some how developed looseness in the ferrule. It's a spigot ferrule and I can feel it wobbling and tell there is a small gap at the bottom of the female piece when its completely seated. I'm not sure how that could happen other than maybe using it when the sections weren't completely seated. I've tried trimming 1/8" off the male end to see if that would allow it to sli
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You're correct that the first runner is the choke. I was just suggesting that because it will give you better spacing in this situation.
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You want to place the 12 at your 27x location. I'd probably push it out a little farther though, maybe 62". Put the stripper at 30" and bullseye the 25 and 20 between.
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You're burning on the line left by the graphite so you're burning it off along with the cork under it.. As long as you make the line nice and thin you'll never know it was there.
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I have used graphite transfer paper to trace images onto cork handles. If you have a printer you can pretty much put anything you want onto a handle that way.
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herb canter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Now wait just a minute Brian , so the rod is not > suitable for big stripers but is suitable for > Halibut from shore ? > > I have seen Halibut that would eat a striper for > lunch . Whats going on here ? Haha I guess that's a fair question. Where I fish I'm typically getting a lot more sh
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I built my rod for the same purpose and it's a blast for that as long as you're not catching big stripers. I throw a lot of weightless flukes, light swimbaits and Carolina rigs. It's my favorite rod for halibut from shore because it throws quarter oz swimbaits really well. I went with the chrome inserts strictly to keep the weight down on such a long light blank. Going on 4 years with a lot of us
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I built a IST1204F with the Minima M frames into the Minima F's and it works great. Not sure you necessarily need a double foot stripper but you could do it. I've used my rod a lot mostly in the salt water and the Minima guides have held up perfectly.
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Maybe somebody will say otherwise but I don't think you'll get much of an impact in distance in regards to the layout. I say that because my spiral wrapped rods cast equally as well as the conventional ones. If sending the line around like that doesn't matter I don't think tweaking a few runners will. Fuji does make a guide specifically for kr concept casting rods but I haven't tried it. I believ
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What are the distinguishing characteristics of a > "surf rod"? Depends who you're asking and where in the world you're asking it.
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Sounds fun, that blank should work well I would think. I used Fuji kl-h guides 25,12,8m,7l, size 5 runners. I don't think double foot guides are necessary and I'd also recommend smaller running guides if you aren't dealing with freezing temps. The blank is so light any added weight is pretty noticeable. Handle length and style is largely personal preference. My handle is 16 or 17 inches, can't re
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What are you planning on throwing and targeting? Those blanks are rated for fishing stinkers off a boat. The rating is accurate for that but you're not going to be able to cast anywhere near 2oz with any power. I built one for the surf on a BP1265f. It's a fun rod for light lures and smaller fish if that's your plan.
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The MHX surf blanks from mudhole with a 7 power rated 12-25lb line are all 1-4oz rods. I'd be willing to bet that's close to what you have.
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It's been over a year but I contacted Anglers Workshop and they were happy to order the guides for me from Seaguide. That was the only way I could find to get them. It would be nice if they were readily available, sounds like that might be changing.
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For the foregrip I don't really see a way to leave it and make it look "normal". If it were me I would just bite the bullet and cut it off, you'll be happy you did in the long run. Get a longer foregrip that will cover up where the old one was or go the cork tape and heat shrink route. You don't need to clean the blank up perfectly. Get most of the old material off and put the new one o
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Jordan Garrett Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the advice and input. > > Quick follow up, when making thread ramps to > transition grip to blank or reel seat to grip, do > they have to look pretty or will they clean up > after a few coats of epoxy? Once you get some epoxy over them the threads will blend together and look
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Angler's workshop special ordered some stuff from Seaguide for me before. You might have to try going that route if you want that exact reel seat, I don't know of anywhere that stocks it.
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I just did my first one the other day, Its pretty straightforward. The problem I had was that the cork filler didn't really burn so I was left with some light spots in the design. Not sure if others had the same experience?
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I believe there was an article about doing something similar. The difference was spiral wrapping the casting side so you used the same running guides for both. Still not sure why somebody would really need such a rod but if I were going to do it that would be the way.
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