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Results 1 - 30 of 294
8 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I believe the type of fishing is going to dictate the handle length and reel seat placement. A wading rod vs surf rod vs boat rod, etc.. Also the reel is going to effect where the seat should be placed and by default, the balance of the entire rod. The reel is often overlooked regarding weight and balance. Casting style will also have a bearing on the seat placement. A surf rod will typically ha
Forum: rodboard
14 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
The first rod that I built was a fly rod. It was a 9' Sage RPL 8wt 2 pc blank. The only reason I did it was because I could not afford the same Sage rod that was already built. I guess I saved about 50% from retail building that on the newest fly rod blank that Sage had at the time. Came out real nice and worked well. I was still making surfboards when I did it and it really was not that hard for
Forum: rodboard
14 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Here are a few rods of mine. The latest one is the first post. I am not selling these online and the only way you would be able to get one is if you know me where I live. I do use components from the sponsors on the left.
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
First this is your rod and you can build it anyway you want, I am just making suggestions and have been making spiral wrapped rods like this for a little over 5 years, with a lot of trial and error. This is how I do them now: The stripper guide (butt guide) should be about 20" to 21" from the face of the reel mounted on the reel seat. On a rod that length (6'6") I would use 8 m
Forum: rodboard
15 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Yes, I was Lynn. The denatured alcohol did not affect the parts of the decal that were left exposed. I also used water and a small amount of dish soap to clean up and there was no residue of the thread left. I sanded down the high parts of the epoxy to an acceptable level with 100 grit and used water to clean off the dust. I re-applied the epoxy and it leveled fairly flat and did not run off in a
Forum: rodboard
21 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I have a P-Touch but mostly use Deal Connection decals and there is a local print shop that make them by me for a low price. The problem he is having with the edge is that it shows through after coating so you can tell there is an edge, it is not invisible. My friend also has one that builds and uses the thread techniques listed above and he says it will work. You can also try trimming the edges
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
The Fuji WCS ones that Roger has the link to work. You will need the diameter of the blank where it will sit in MM. Like a Size 16 with 10 MM diameter cutout. Sometimes you need to go up a half size but the inner cutout can be slightly reamed. I have also had pretty good luck with the aluminum Alps dimpled winding checks in this area. If you get a loose fit you can put thread down in that area t
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Yes Roger I had, I was trying to avoid that but there may not be any way to. I have had this in small areas like over a decal and was able to lightly sand the high areas and re-coat to level, but not with this much area. Lynn I was looking for the soap and water answer but have not ever tried it. I will give it a go and test another decal with DA to see if it messes with it. Thank You. The thread
Forum: rodboard
23 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I had a tiger wrap sacrificial thread break my cover thread when I was pulling it out, so I decided to add another coat of epoxy and then do the cover and sacrificial threads. When I epoxied over it, I guess the thread I was using left a silicone residue on the surface so the epoxy would not stick in random areas and left the surface bumpy / un-even. There are decals (adhesive back) that were par
Forum: rodboard
23 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Shimano Curado K, 13 Fishing Concept A or Concept Z and Lews BB1 Speed spool. These are all under $200 and will serve your purpose. I would highly recommend the level wind. I fish mainly saltwater with baitcasters and use these reels for the type of fishing you are talking about. They are really bass reels so they work great for that also.
Forum: rodboard
23 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
X3 on what Norman said and I just knew Roger had a tool for it. Also make sure as you go, pull the reamer out and look at both end holes, if they look uneven, then even them out by reaming to the more full side a little. It is better to pay close attention when just starting. Try to get them straight before you get to the full bore size. Otherwise they will be too loose. What Tom says is correct
Forum: rodboard
28 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I fish a lot from a kayak and 7' to 6'6" will work pretty good. I build mostly for baitcasters and throw 1/16 to 1/4 oz plastics (shrimp / worm) and top waters like a Top Dog or a Zara Spook and 3.5" Yozuri jerk lures. My favorite rod to use in the kayak is a 6'9" baitcaster built on a NFC P703-1 (Lambda LMX). The grip is 9" measured from the butt to the anchor point on the re
Forum: rodboard
29 days ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I picked one up at Cabela’s a few years back and it felt like it was built on a conventional blank and not a fly blank. Phil is on point with this. I would look at a light to medium light power fast action blank with a 4-4.5 / 64 tip and rated for 1/16 to 3/8 or even up to ½ oz. There are a lot of 6’6” to 7’ blanks like that and although I don’t like to trim more than 4” from the butt of any blan
Forum: rodboard
4 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
It is so hard to match colors through photographs. If Phil is correct Fuji has a "Pale Gold 902" that will work. I would wait to get the blank but it does not hurt to have different shades of gold thread laying around.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Check out Mudhole's site, they usually put their fly rod blanks on sale right now (along with other types). Good blanks that I have built a couple 3wts on. The ones I used were MHX 9' 4 pc and I did not pay over $40 for either. Very easy to get your rod made under budget. Those 6 pc travel rod blanks may be hard to find.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Wait till you get the blank. NFC in a nutshell: Great blanks / poor service.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I love the blanks but the company needs a good service rep. If enough orders are cancelled they may get the message.
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
To me an 8wt would be appropriate for your situation. Just have a 9 wt line when it is windy. It is no problem going up or down a line weight with the right blank. Herb's CTS blanks are state of the art and you certainly could not go wrong with one. The new NFC blanks like the F 890-4 (Gamma Beta LMX) is another outstanding blank and it is 65% off $450. This is what I use and I target fish in you
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
SM: Standard Modulus / Tensile Modulus (MSI) 33-35 IM: Intermediate Modulus / Tensile Modulus (MSI) 43-47 HM: High Modulus / Tensile Modulus (MSI) 50-85 Ref, Toray This basically refers to the strength of the fibers. The higher the modulus the less material and thinner tube wall thickness of the blank (less weight to achieve a common strength). This does not necessarily mean the blank will b
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On any blank,a decal is best applied on a first > coat of epoxy. If ridges are prominent a light > sanding in the decal area would be good. X2. I apply them all the time. You can get by without sanding but you may need to put more than one coat of epoxy on.
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Hans Shull Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Reading the comments reminded me what I had to > have as the most important tool on my table. A > desk light with a magnifying lens!!! LOL Those > last couple of guides at the tip are a treat to > wrap with my 54 year old eyes. That light and lens > makes me 22 again. LOL I feel you brother, I
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Lance at Swampland has helped a lot of beginners with advice and what essential components are needed. Give him a call if you are not sure about something, he will be glad to help. He won't pressure you to buy anything and you can use the fine vendors to the left of the page for parts.
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I weighed standard large and medium Fly tip tops and they are heavier than Fuji SS framed Alconite or Ti SIC. The aluminum tube RECs are lighter though, but are kinda of ugly. I have used them on a few builds and really after it is all put together you can hardly tell how ugly they are.
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Fuji RV6mm, KB5mm and the rest 4mm. The RV has enough height for 2 guides on the side to the 180 but may not work for a "simple" spiral (1 guide on the side), to keep the line off the blank.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
You want to use one that is rated for the maximum voltage of the motor or the full-load amperage at maximum torque.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I am in the process of building a 6'9" spiral wrapped rod and am using 9 guides. I have built about 20 6'9" rods this way in the last 5 years using 10 or 9 guides + a tip top. I have settled on 9 guides for this type of build. I position the stripper (Fuji RV 6mm) about 21" from the face of the reel and the first runner at 3.25" from the tip. The blanks I use are medium light
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Heavy salt trolling and surf may benefit from > using an underwrap. Not so much most other type > rods. > > ................. Use underwraps where there will be a lot of pressure put on the double foot guides like on a tuna / blue water rod, when sensitivity is not an issue.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
The speed control should be on the wrapping motor and placed between the foot peddle and the motor. The motor speed needs to be regulated so that it has the ability to start from stationary to very slow to faster with the foot peddle. That speed needs to be tuned to your ability (the reason for the speed control). If you have a way to reverse the motor, that would be helpful but it is not necessa
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
Larry, If you have truly found the "Magic" blank, then by all means run the CCS and keep repeating the same thing. I had gotten in a groove a few years back looking for that same repeatable formula and then it occurred to me that maybe I was stuck and by not trying different things I was missing something. So I started thinking outside my box and trying different guide configurations,
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Lance Schreckenbach
I like what everyone has said so far about guides. As far as real seats go for casting rods I like Fuji because I have not had any failures with the hoods or bodies. For easy mounting I would use Fuji ACS or ECMS; for a little more complicated with inserts the PTS, PMTS and PULS; Somewhat complicated (space barrel 1.25" from rear seat edge to edge) split 2 piece reel seat SKS with your choic
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 10

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