On Amazon I found other tapes that are not by Brother but work with the P-touch line TZe. They have White, red, and blue on clear tape. I also found gold on clear.
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You may want to clarify with your client that it is a "Tiger Thread" or a "Tiger Wrap" he wants. He may have seen or heard about it but doesn't know exactly what it is. Embellishments like Tiger wraps on offshore rods is very common.
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The new one is much better than the one made last year, for the last 30+ years.
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "critical error" > > Try Fuji/AnglersResource. It always works, great > products. LOL. I love it!
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Double foot guides weigh less than single foot snake guides, at least the ones I have weighed. It may be because they are not cut or made to a very close tolerance. The extra wrap on the other end of the double foot guide may equal it out or be more. REC double foot guides are round and not pear shaped like the European style snake guides. Look through one and you will see. The fact that the elon
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I was influenced a lot on my rod building by Lefty Kreh, his was the first book I read about fly fishing. He always stated that he prefered a larger stripper guide so that is how I started building fly rods with a larger stripper guide. I would use on a 8wt, a 20 double foot (DF) ceramic guide but move it a little closer to the reel by about 1" or 2", then a 12 mm double foot ceramic f
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I really like Alps fly seats, not titanium but function and look great. Have not had one to corrode either with heavy saltwater fishing.
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Do a 20 for 3000 sized reel, then the rest just like you stated. If the 10 KLH doesn't space out right or create a straight line to the choke point then try a 12 KLH.
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I use a Brother P-Touch label maker. They have gold, white, blue, green and red on clear.
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If you are doing a spinning rod, go with the Point Blank. For a BFS casting rod look at the NFC P703-1 Lambda LMX, you will not be disappointed. I usually cut this blank down to 6' 8.75" to net a 6'9" and cast every thing from 1/16 oz plastics to a 1 oz top dog. If you go with natural cork grips, a split grip with a butt section and a rear grip, no fore grip and go light on the decorati
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How much does it weigh, compared to natural cork? Heavier or lighter? Do you have it in blocks, so we could shape our own grips?
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There seems to be a train of thought that no resin should go past the wrap. I am not of that, even with fly rods. The main problem I have is the hard edge it makes at the blank thread interface. It will catch on any rod tube or sock. I want a smooth transition, so I go over the edge with the second coat. I apply a thin first coat right over the thread then a thicker second coat that will go evenl
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The best casting spinning rod blanks that I have come across are Fuji Point Blank blanks. I believe the NFC X-Ray blank line is designed by the same guy. I would look at some of the medium light X-Ray blanks with a large butt and a thin tip and fast action in the 7'3" to 7'6" lengths.
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Your "rod recipe" Should include the exact reel you will be using. Spinning rod guide trains, the Fuji KR System uses, are based on the reel and the angle from the spool. The rod is built to a specific reel. You can average and center the guides on that average for a more generic guide train (it will work) but you are going to get the best performance out of the same reel, guide train
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Jason Le Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the info here Lance this is super > helpful! I like how the RV guides are specifically > build with braid in mind. > > That said, it seems like the RV guides are only > available in premium finishes, so I'm considering > going with TI SiC for the stripper and then > finishing it
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This particular build has Fuji guides and spacing like this (measured from TT): KT4-3.25”, KT4-6.937”, KT4-11.125”, KB4-15.812”, KB4-21.062”, KB4-26.875”, KB4-33.375”, KB5-40.5” and RV6-48.375”. The back reel seat anchor point is set 9.25” from the end butt. This blank is a NFC P703-1 (Lambda LMX) cut down to 6’8.75” (with butt nets 6’9”). With a tiger wrap between the grip and the butt 3.1 ounce
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I buy blanks from NFC and have been doing it for a while since they started. The first ones came through vendors and then I ordered directly. When I first ordered there were issues that I believe happened due to growth and sales, they were somewhat disorganized and it appeared they were having problems with keeping up due to the high volume of sales. Manufacturing has to keep up and you can neve
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For fitting the reel seat everything you mentioned works. If your reel seat fits close to the blank, not a lot of space, then masking tape if it is only once or twice around. If it is larger than a few wraps of masking tape then go with drywall fiberglass tape cut into 1/2" strips, make 4 or 3 arbors with space in between them and not flush with the ends. You will be putting your 15 minute e
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A lot of good information, do what ever you want but the range of ceramic guide sizes I have use is from 5mm to 7mm up to a 10wt. If the guide ring is too small it will slow down the line, especially in colder water. Ceramic guides do add weight to the blank and because it is the thinnest lightest area of the blank; the tip section weight will be noticed and it will affect the recovery of the bla
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I did a 9' 3wt with all ceramics and it came out really nice, built on a MHX 4PC Fly blank.. Cast like a dream and can consistently hit 80' with it, not that you would need to. Made one the same way for my brother also. The guide set up was; KW 10 SS Alconite stripper, L frame SS Alconite 7 mm, and 10-L frame SS Alconite 5 mm running train (12 guides total) and a 6 mm Alconite tip top. The to
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I am with Roger I really don't think the guide ring material matters that much but the tip does and I believe a ceramic tip top will function better. A quality guide also matters, you don't want it to get a little stressed and have it break due to poor quality welds or construction. I would imagine that Ugly Sick got a lot of returned rods with cheap low quality ceramic guides that failed or the
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4wt-KW Torzite 8, double foot snake 4 then the rest double foot 1 snakes. All running guides REC. Use a medium loop fly (not REC) or a lighter Arowana 6 tip top. 6wt-KW Torzite 12, KW Torzite 8, Double foot REC 4 snake the rest double foot REC snakes 2s or 1s. Use a large loop fly (not REC) or a lighter Arowana 7 tip top. The Arowana tip top is going to be lighter than any fly tip top. The
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I re-align my guides after wrapping to get them as straight as I need, so slightly loose guides is not a problem. The two issues that affect the epoxy not setting properly are: 1) not having the proper proportions mixed and 2) not mixing thoroughly enough. Use epoxy syringes to measure more accurately and come up with a routine for mixing the epoxy enough that you can repeat every time to obtain
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Look at the Alps HERA7WL2, R-CAH LXL2, TRI-RAH12. Get Bit Outdoors has them and those all have the winding check at the end of the reel seat for the butt piece.
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The whole reason I started building rods was because I wanted a Sage fly rod and could not afford one, or at least didn't want to pay that much for one. The rod was 425 brand new and I got the blank for about 125 and spent another 75 on components. Since then I have built hundreds of rods and even a few more Sages. Looking at the price of the new Sage R8 Salt blank at 700 It is not a great value,
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So what does a tip top look like?
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The 703-1 is a very good blank and if you want to go a little lighter look at the 702-1. The lightest grip material you will find is natural cork, carbon fiber grips are heavier. The lightest real seat and grip set up I have found is a split seat like a Fuji SK2 without a foregrip and natural cork split reel seat grip and a natural cork and burle butt. These are casting rods that I cut the blank
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Bob Ferreira Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Lance, Thanks for your inputs - much appreciated. > will definitely check put these alternatives. A > quick follow up question for you. When going with > the 20# braid does it make sense to move to a 3000 > size reel? Bob, I cast mostly artificials and use a Shimano 2500 Nexave with 20# pow
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Go with a lighter blank like a NFC X-Ray IS 702-1 (LMX), P702-1 (HM LMX) or a Phenix K2 712L-C and use 20# braid. Guides should be Titanium framed tall H20mm, H10mm, M5.5mm, B4mm X 3, 4mm X 3 and a 4.5mm Tip Top. This is what I have done for these saltwater species. With Ti you won't have to worry about corrosion and Fuji and Seaguide both have frames that will work.
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Better be tied off if he catches something. I would highly recommend a spiral wrap for a a standup rod. Tom is spot on and don't forget to use the A for the underwrap, the D size over thread will try to get between a larger thread size and make it difficult to step up to the underwrap even if it has a coating of epoxy.
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