Suck up a little DNA or acetone (or U-40 brush cleaner) and expel it before switching. How clean do they have to be? I wouldn't switch between resin and hardener however, bad Juju!
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Good one Tom!
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I find 2 pc. seats to be very uncomfortable on spinning rods.
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I think if the blank is rough enough to inhibit packing of thread, go over it with a damp scotchbrite pad. No need to sand off all the ridges as long as it doesn't "bite" into the thread. (Sanding always implies aggressiveness.) Little is needed.
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I'll use any guides, as long as they are as good as Fuji's. When in doubt...
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Casey is excellent. He also has some informative videos.
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Is this stuff part of your 4 rods by X-mas deal?
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Mix enough for one rod and assemble it, clean it up etc. Then you will know if you're fast enough to mix a big batch and do the other 3. You don't wanna become the one arm paperhanger. FYI: turkey is highly over rated.
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Hardly a question is asked around here ( unless it deals with specific blank info and such) that hasn't been answered in the past on this forum. Would people just look a bit at past posts, many wouldn't have to ask a question. There's a wealth of knowledge at our fingertips! A wonderful thing!!
Forum: rodboard

You better do the 3 cc thing.
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Bottle inserts and syringes. Easiest and cleanest way possible. Tom is correct in saying "why make it difficult?" I do not go along with the 3cc rule however, Lol. Insert syringe into bottle, invert it withdraw a little finish, you will notice some bubbles at syringe end, slowly expel it back into the inverted bottle and the bubbles will rise out of your way. You can now withdraw finis
Forum: rodboard

Hey Rob, "Still dreaming about this catch?" Lol I'm a Threadmaster Lite user myself at present, and happy with it. Next will be Flexcoat for me. I also like D-2.
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El, watch a bunch of videos, Flex-coat has some. I would use eva grips and a tube type seat. Glue arbor in seat, ream to fit. Grips must be of smaller I.D. than blank O.D. and can be reamed if needed. At times they can stretch enough to fit. Don't forget butt caps. If I were you I'd start now.
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Mark, 1st time I was ever referred to as a "respected" rodbuilder! Lol, Thx
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Mark, come to think of it, I've seen this video myself and have no idea where. It looked to have been recorded at a show somewhere.
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Try dressing the nicks out of it.
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Mark, it's in the library above, texturizing grips or wraps. Not actually the JT dragonscale mentioned, but the same principal.
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Totally forgot about Gottfried! LOL Where might I read more about this individual? Never mind, I found him, somehow I knew just where to look.
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BC Grey frames and Fazite or Alconite for me. Fuji corrosion control frames. I don't build for salt.
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It's a variation of the JT Dragonscale wrap. (Jim Trelikes)
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Go with the video Bill's an excellent teacher!
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Look into the KR Gps on the Anglers Resource page. It allows you to input various reel and line types/sizes and you can see how it changes layouts accordingly.
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A light sanding might help a great deal. Light !
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I would definitely turn down all the reel drags to a minimum.
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When a guy wants you to build a rod, would you prefer him to be species specific, or just say "well, I want it to be good for everything"?
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With Torzites, the rod above would have come in at $345. You guys are quite right about the warranty aspect. Just saying what can be done,
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Look at Rodgeeks
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Last year I built a rod identical to the St. Croix Legend Elite ($470.00) except that I used Alconite guides instead of Torzite. Total cost for parts: $259.00. This sort of saving is why I build rods.
Forum: rodboard