A big thank you for all your comments. It was only a bit of a whim on my part, but I think it would have been a fun project. If nothing else, down the road I would have had a nice rig to give to a kid just learning to fish. Maybe I'll find something at a yard sale which can be re-purposed. Again, thanks everyone! And, Ladd Flock, that is an interesting looking reel seat. I don't think it
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Every once in a while, I have an urge to do a trip where the gear I am using is pretty much a "throw back". In my arsenal of reels, I still have a Johnson Century and an Abu-Matic 170. (And, somewhere a friend's son still has my Zebco 33). However, I have found modern baitcasting reel seats to be less than ideal. Back in the day, rods for spincasting reels did not employ a "bla
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Thank you. While I not inclined to try .5 ml, I do occasionally drop down to 1.5 ml of each resin and hardener. This is good to know.
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Pardon me if this has been discussed earlier. I did a search, but couldn't find the answer I sought. I have been using Threadmaster Lite for years and years, through all its incarnations. This year, since Andy Dear's previous efforts were so good, I decided to try Gen4. Since I began using Threadmaster Lite, I have mixed the resin and hardener at 2 ml each. Works every time. Upon reading th
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St Croix had a line of fly rods in that price range in the early to mid 90s labeled "Imperial Graphite". I still have a four piece 9' 8/9 weight with the designation IFT9080. Definitely not a fast action, but a very nice smallmouth rod for throwing weightier nymphs. FWIW, originally they were sold with aluminum travel tubes, but by the mid 90s they came with cordura covered PVC tubes
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Kent Griffith: Actually the device used by audiophiles, as I remember it, was much simpler than a coil. It very much resembled a hot glue gun. Whether the static charge was in the vinyl record, the turntable, or the cartridge isn't known to me, but it did impact the quality of the sound. My memory is a bit fuzzy here, but I seem to recall that you put the nose of the gun on the record and squ
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Maybe I have no idea of what I'm suggesting, but... Back in the day of vinyl records, when static electricity was an issue, a cheap degaussing gun solved the problem. Whether they are readily available today, or cheap, is something of which I'm clueless. Would a degausser solve the problem?
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While I have been building my own fishing rods for nearly twenty years, my skill level is probably best described as "marginally adequate". If it were not for this forum, it wouldn't even be that. But if you do read what some have to say here, from time to time, you can learn something. Recently, Roger Wilson mentioned using a "backing board" when sanding cork. I'm not sur
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My first two fishing rods were solid fiberglass. I don't remember the name of the first, but my second was a True Temper matched with a Johnson Century. (There was a time they made both hammers and fishing tackle. If I recall correctly, they also used to make a rod with an integral spincasting reel under the handle.) In the subsequent sixty years, there has been steady improvement in nearly e
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Once, again, this site demonstrates what a wonderful resource it is. Thanks to all who responded. You have all given me something (or, things) to consider. I haven't decided exactly what I'll do, but I will feel more comfortable with my decision whatever it may be. Again, thank you. Slainte!
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After acquiring an exposed blank baitcasting reel seat for a new build, I decided I wanted to shorten the handle by about an inch (and, so, move the seat an inch down the blank). I think the necessary inside diameter reduction would be about 1/2 mm. So, would you ream it a bit, or buy the correct size seat and put the other in the drawer for later? Just a bit curious about the thoughts of othe
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Again, thank you for the additional responses. Roger has added some interesting ideas to the discussion. Among other things, while I also use Titebond III to glue my rings together, I use a threaded rod of much smaller diameter to hold the rings together. There isn't much of an issue removing the handle, but then putting it on a mandrel can be a chore. Of course, I don't do any reaming until
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Thanks for the responses. This sort of confirms my suspicions that whatever paraffin wax is at hand will do. Of course, since LED lanterns became ubiquitous, I don't think that there are any candles left in the house. I have also reached an age where birthday candles on a cake present as serious fire hazard. Regardless, I think the question is answered. Again, thank you all.
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For those of you using a lathe, as opposed to a power wrapper, to turn cork, what are your recommendations for wax to use on the mandrel? Curious to learn if there is anything more useful than Gulf Paraffin Wax. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Years ago, Scott made a 6'10", 3 piece 3 weight that Harry Murray deemed the idea Shenandoah National Park rod. I don't know if they sell the blank, but that might be a place to start.
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Thanks to all. A file does make sense. Slainte, Hunter
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I am now trying my hand a turning my own cork handles. So far; so good. I have encountered one problem for which I could use an answer. For the most part, I use sand paper to shape the handle, working my way from 60 grit down to 400 grit, progressively. I can put a tenon on the end of the handle without too much difficulty, but I am having trouble creating a nice sharp edge to the shoulder.
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I cannot remember which poster offered this observation on 'sprial wraps'. It has was probably a decade, or so, ago. I was building my first such rod, and someone advised that you could easily go from 0 to 180 with no transition guide whatsoever, and performance would be just about the same as if you used one, or more, transition guides. It was noted that if you used braided line, you might we
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I agree with Mike Corn, although I use rings instead of shipping tape to secure the reel to the handle. I overwrap with silicon tape. It offers a few advantages. First, there is no glue to ooze on hot summer days. Second, once it bonds to itself it is very secure. I much prefer it to electrical tape.
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Faced with a similar decision, I went with the Grizzly Hobby Lathe, also. (And, since it wouldn't work with my Dewalt cordless drill, I found a 7.5 Amp corded drill at Lowe's for under $40 that's been great.) I looked at the Harbor Freight model, but after discussing the matter with a friend that has been turning wood for decades, the Grizzly was the choice. I got my mandrels from Utmost. So
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Thanks for the response Ron! This is good news!
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I acquired a few blanks at the show last month (okay, maybe more than a few). All of them from bargain bins, and none of them were exactly labelled. I had planned on using running guides with #5 rings, however two of the blanks require tips with tube sizes in the 7.0 to 7.5 range. Typically, I use basic black Alps guides, however I can't seem to fine any tips with #5 rings and tubes this large
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I've had this concern, and my solution was very different from those offered thus far. After removing the handle from the mandrel, and before I started reaming, I wrapped the handle with duct tape. Use just enough to give the handle a bit of structural stability. Then remove the tape once its ready for the blank. Even if you have a hair line fracture in the handle, the tape will prevent it f
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Thanks for all the advice. I've had to ream exposed blank casting seats in the past, but it was more of an accident/mistake than by design. I imagine I'll try ordering 'small' on purpose this time. Slainte!!!
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Of course, the cynical among us may ask, "What so unusual about the guide manufacturer suggesting that we use more guides?" :) Just saying'... If they could get away with it, I suspect Shimano would advise that we all have three reels for every rod! As others have posted, use the minimum number of guides that meet the need.
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In the past, I have simply selected blank-through reel seats based on the blanks position at mid tube of said reel seat. then I would make handle adjustments (up or down the blank) as necessary. However, now I wonder if there might be a better choice. Should the measurement of the blank's diameter correspond with the rear of the seat tube, the middle of the seat tube, or its front? I really h
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Would a pre-treatment with a spray fixative mitigate that problem? Just curious.
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I am toying with the idea of putting finish on an EVA foam grip and then marbling. Any thoughts, tips, or experiences with doing such would be appreciated. Like so many of my projects, I have no idea of what I am doing! :) Thanks for any comments!
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Polyurethane spar varnish?
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Years ago, St. Croix offered a rod specifically designed for the 'Float'n'Fly" technique. (They may have done so in collaboration with Ed Nuchols before his untimely death.) It was a two piece, 8'6" rod with a light action and was designated for use with lines from 4 lbs to 8 lbs. They offer something similar now (PS86LM2), although the original completed rod came with an oversized T
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