Les, I only use the Fixatif for decal and signature applications. Great stuff! Lynn, absolutely, already ordered new. DR.
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In my opinion you answered your own question with the statement *it turned out perfect!". When it works perfect, I don't change it. DR
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Bruce, Les is correct. Anything that worry's me gets Rod Bond paste. I have yet to see fail on anything. I even used it to patch a spot on the bottom of a fiberglass boat where the gel coat was knocked off by a rock in a 6" area all the way into the fiberglass. It's still there and working perfectly. Zero leaks!
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Les, I will add one more fix for others to try, this works over decals as well: Krylon Fixatif. It's a clear spray that when applied lightly and let dry can solve a LOT of finish issues (haven't tried it on wrappings) DR
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Thanks Les! All of those sound plausible to me ???? So any things have changed in the last 12 or 15 years. So many people and businesses are gone that I use to know here. In that change, and with availability today, I had to substitute my tried and true, this was definitely my cross to bare. I have an order being shipped today that will fill my Threadmaster need for a long long time! Go
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Lance, The epoxy used was Pro-Kote. DR
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Mark, the Aftcote was my 3rd coat. I already tried 2 coats of the "new" finish before going to the Aftcote, as I suspected the same as you. The 2nd coat of the new finish did the same ocean tide recede as the 1st. I kept dragging it off the main body of finish and onto the edge over and over. Finally after seeing this again with the 2nd coat, I looked around for an alternative: the much
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Lynn, imagine applying finish ahead of the reel seat 4" for a decal. At the end of the 4" have a place on the blank where the finish stops. Looks even, straight, shiny and clean. Come back and look at it 10min later and that edge has receded like an ocean tide, leaving only a damp looking perfectly straight line. Zero gloss from your stopping point headed back at the reel seat 1/16"
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"Medium build" on the package. DR
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I have used many thread finish, definitely not new to rodbuilding, been doing it 25+ years. My usual thread finish was backordered so I decided to try something new. This unnamed finish refuses to be on the ends of anything. It wicks away from the ends of every guide thread and wicks away off any clean finish line. The finish will actually try to wick from each end of any wrap and slightly try to
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I just used finished a rod today with finish that was at least 10 years old. It gets more of an amber color over time, but it mixed, and performed great. Cured perfectly. DR
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Brandon, I just finished a Cashion build, its on the dryer right now turning. These come with VERY pronounced ridges, seemingly running one direction: grabs you hands feeling one direction, just bumpy feeling going the other. I used size A threads just fine. You do need to be careful packing your wraps, when you place your straight edge of the packing tool against the wraps and push... the too
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I have a lathe, but blew the motor on it last week, I was determined to finish the grips, so I locked a Dewalt cordless drill in my vise and completed the grips just fine. the shorter and larger the diameter of the mandrel, the BETTER. a 1/4" mandrel will want to wobble on you, but a 5/16 or even a 3/8" mandrel works great in a drill or drill press. DR
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I have to agree. Decal Connection really does a great job every time. DR
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Best to you guys, good job Lance in keeping that rig on the road. Glad to hear you are "ok" and doing well Lance. DR
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Finish does indeed add strength to any guide wrap. 2 part system, as Joe pointed out. Tom, I dis-agree. The use of CP can indeed cause your guides to "come loose", key here: with IMPROPER CP USE. Meaning: if the color preserver (CP) isn't totally encased in thread finish the guide can fail due to the CP allowing moisture to sneak under the finish and De-laminating the finish, thr
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Jim, Dont wait as long before starting your marbling effort. This way it has a little more time to "lay down". Then add a nice heavy coat of lite build over it the next day and let that sit and lay down. Smooth as silk. DR
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Pearl X = most any crafts store DR
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Max, Durability as Bert stated. DR
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Garry, Dry pigments like Pearl X are the only way to go in my opinion. DR
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Max, I have used these on Musky rods throwing up to 1lb. You will be just fine. I would use a locking wrap. Fish wont hurt them, anglers will! .....especially with rod lockers. Edit to add: Stick with a 6mm ringed tip top or larger for durability reasons. DR
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Use a white or silver underwrap of thread or paint, depending on the color of your decal lettering. DR
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PacBay is GOOD people!! DR
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It never ceases to amaze me how complex people can make something like applying finish to a rod. Try this: Apply a nice even thin coat while the rod is turing on the dryer....walk away! .......come back tomorrow and do the same thing again..... maybe one more time if it needs it again the next day.. You'll be pleased! Now enjoy the low stress do nothing application of rod finishing.
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Steve, the secret to it is applying the finish in THIN multiple coats or using a finish that cures slower allowing the finish more time to level. No need to remove: You can correct wavy finish with another coat, again use a slower curing finish and thin multiple coats. Another tip is to apply finish to your butt wraps and decals FIRST, guides last. This gives the finish more time to level
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Speedball acrylic ink and drafting pen = let signature dry completely and apply finish directly over it. If I'm in a hurry I'll speed dry the ink with a heat gun. DR
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John, Take a drill but the same size as the tip top and ream out the tip tip a tad BY HAND, this usually makes the tip top a little larger (stretches and removes paint inside) in size and will then fit the rod.
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Marc, A fan strong blowing away from you works pretty well, I use one when cutting. DR
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Robert, About the best you could do is shape it the way you want it, then cover it with Rod Wrap or 2-3 coats of thread finish, fish it the week, and re-work it later. DR
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If you sunk, you need more than epoxy If you dont have a bilge pump you need one If your boat has rivets, it's likely not the seam I have found nothing to work better than clear "fish tank sealant". This is pure silicone that fish tanks are MADE FROM. This is the stuff that seals glass to glass and aluminum to glass and the like. It is MADE to be IN water. I used this on an old
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