I'll warm it up a bit and give it a shot, I'm sure that's the answer. Thanks!
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I have a good quantity of pro paste epoxy that has been sitting for two years, and the resin has dried up a bit to the consistency of wax. I did some test runs with it and mixed with the hardener it still works great, but the consistency is a little too thick to apply it effectively. Anyone know a sure way to thin this resin out again so it can be used? Just would be a shame for this to get
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Thanks everyone, helps a ton.
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Thanks for the help Phil. Definitely a good opportunity for a fool's lesson since it's just a gift, not a project with expectations. Not sure what I did wrong but I'll definitely be paying closer attention with round 2. I've done lots of rods with my old epoxy and no issues and I'm 0/1 with prokote... But like I said I'm rusty and 95% sure it's my fault. Thanks!
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Hello, Built a rod in a hurry and gave it to my dad thinking that the thread finish was still tacky, but it turns out it never cured properly and the guides are all falling off. First rod in years, I'm sure I mixed the epoxy wrong or something. So I'm going to just redo the guides. Problem is some of it cured, some didn't, so there's some good gunk spots stuck to the rod yet. Is there a
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Thanks-- I've been looking at their lineup and was thinking their numbering seemed like st croix's. However, it seems like they are being slow to roll out the st croix line, as I had trouble finding a 5 foot ultralight option. So unfortunately I'm still looking.
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Need some help. In the past I've made ultralight crappie rods for myself and a couple friends using a shorter st croix 5'0" fast action ultralight blank (3S50ULF). I took some time off from rod building recently, until now, when I planned to build this same rod for my dad as a retirement gift-- only to find that St Croix isn't selling blanks anymore! Now that my world is upside down, I a
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Edit: Double Post
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Were you using metallic thread? I made myself a build a couple years ago with thicker, all metallic thread. The guides are now very wiggly and probably would come off if I tried. I suspect it's because the epoxy/varnish wasn't able to soak in as much as normal thread. It also could be that the thread seems to wrap more like a tiny linked chain-- not fully circular, but one link at a time-- an
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Thanks to both of you. Tom, Thanks for asking-- that's actually part of the problem-- If I draw a straight line extending the spool axis, that line never intersects with the rod, because the intersection point is about 6 inches beyond the tip! If I follow the guideline of having the top tip of the stripper hit that line, that's where i get my "10 inches from the tip" figure. I
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Hello, I'm building a 5' ultralight for panfishing and I was thinking I'd do KR concept. I typically use the "table edge" procedure for this to place my guides. The problem is, following this method with my reel actually gets my butt guide about 10" from the tip of the rod! Am I doing something wrong? I'm using a size 16 fuji KR guide for my stripper. I looked at the reco
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I started building last year and have done all my rods as KR concept-- it's what was hot at the time and it suits my needs. I'm building my first ultralight and I'm wondering if KR Concept still is a good choice there. I just picture the way the line looks on my regular rods as I'm casting, and I'm starting to think that maybe as the lure weight gets closer to zero, the line flapping might be
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St. Croix's service is top-notch, warranty or no. I would think if you describe the rod to them, that they would be able to help you in some way beyond just offering a replacement.
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You guys are awesome. Thanks for the answers and the tips.
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Hey all, I've built a few rods using rod varnish on the threads, and I've done fine without having any sort of rod turner. I've just used light coats and rotated the rod frequently as it was drying. I'm going to do my first build using epoxy, like a normal person. After watching videos, I'm a little concerned that my technique might not fare so well with epoxy. Is it practical to coat threads
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I have a set of old casting rods that I use just once a year for a carp tournament. I use spinning reels for this so I can cast more precisely under logs and stuff. It's pretty surprising how well they cast, especially considering that some are pretty stiff and rigged up with cheap 40lb braided line. :) The trigger does get in the way though, I've been considering cutting it off on a few of
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Take a few rods that you currently own and have a > good feel for and run the CCS on them. Then use > those numbers to compare, up or down, to the CCS > numbers you record for the unknown blanks. > > ............. Yeah, the problem is I don't have many rods at all, if I did it wouldn't be a
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I'm a little newer to rod building and I got some of those grab bag blanks from mudhole to get some cheaper experience on. I'm working on determining their characteristics using CCS so I can decide what to build with them. My problem is, with my lack of experience, I'm unable to translate an ERN into something I find meaningful. I've been raised on the light/medium/heavy classifications, and I
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I built my KR on a 6'6" St Croix blank, and I have a factory St Croix rod with the same specs, so it's a good way to compare the KR concept vs. the factory guide placement. The casting distance on the two is about the same, but the accuracy of the KR is much better. The big gain is that the KR is much lighter, and I think that helps with the sensitivity.
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I built two KR concept rods last month using these instructions. I used the 'line the reel up with the edge of the table' method, in lieu of using a computer program with the measurements of the reel. I think this link is applicable because it explains the KR concept as a branch from the NGC, and describes where to go from there. By the way, if you're not using a measurements program and
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I got a decal from mudhole.com, just one of the simple pictures of a fish. Is this something I can apply varnish over?
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Thanks Col, that's exactly what I needed to hear. Glad you guys are here to help so quickly. I was surprised to hear that varnish isn't getting used very much anymore, since it's what came in a newbie rod kit I used for my first build last month. I had just assumed that it was the only way to do the threads so I didn't really research it further. I'll use the varnish for the threads on my c
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I know the idea of labelling a rod using printed address labels has been talked to death, and I've read up on all the other threads here about it, so I'm not asking to bring up the whole discussion again. Basically, I'm going to try it. My research I see says to epoxy over the label, and not to use rod varnish. My question for those of you who have done this-- what kind of epoxy can I use?
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I taped on the guides last night and ended up with 20-10-5.5-4.5-4.5-4.5-4.5. I went with 4.5 because I think I can get a slip bobber knot through that, and if I can't, I have other rods for slip bobbering. I could have made the 12 work instead of the 10, I think, but the 10 was closer to midway between the 20 and the 5.5. I tried a bunch of casts and compared it to my factor st croix rod with
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Where'd your guide sizes come from? I don't really know what i'm talking about, but wouldn't a size 10 be a little small for the first guide? How much do the brushes cost at walmart? I found that the mudhole ones were cheaper than the ones I got at a local store, but I didn't think of walmart. I'm sure their alcohol will be affordable for you, as long as you buy it in 30 packs. :)
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I'm a newbie at this stuff too, but I've been doing a lot of research on my first "real" build (building on an SC5 myself). I ended up deciding that the Fuji alconite guides were the choice for me. I found a lot of threads saying positive things, and they are also pretty affordable compared to some of the guides I saw available.
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Yeah I've never seen unmilled mahogany but the first picture looks like the grain and color of mahogany board.
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Thanks! FYI I moved the question you answered to its own thread since it's a different subject than the title says, in case you were wondering where the question went. :)
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Due to the awesome tips I received in my thread about tip tops, I've been convinced to go with the KR concept for my build. I came upon a 6'6" ML-F SC5 blank that I'm going to build up a spinning rod for. I've done my research and I think I understand the KR guide placement, but I was hoping some of you that have built similar-spec rods can give me a guess on what guides I'll end up needin
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Thanks for all the tips!
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