Thanks again Phil. I'm going to use a 9' 7w .built on a B2X Winston blank I use for steelhead, to help me get started by locating the first stripper on my Spey blank. The B2X is a one hand rod with a 1 3/4" fighting butt; 4 1/ 2", reel seat, 7 1/2" handle total about 13 1/2" total from butt. On the B2X the first stripper is 20 1/2" from the top of the handle, on the se
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Thanks Tom. Good advice. I've been thinking along the same plan. If I use that plan, it would put my first stripper at about 40"from the Butt of my 12'6" Spey, with maybe 11 guides including two strippers, at an average guide spacing of 10" to about 110" to 112" from the tip. Generally, that seems feasible spacing to me. Jack
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Tom: I know about your 32" rule of thumb and have used it as a guide for many times. But now I'm starting a 12'6" Spey Rod (my first), and have been trying to decide on the best first stripper location. At 32" it will be 12" from the top of the top handle, too close. Any rules of thumb for the top of the handle/top handle? I'm thinking I may simply mount the top handle, a
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MIke: I inquired to NFC via email about the confusing information, which I needn't go into here, but the gentleman who responded admitted he was as confused as I was. He suggested I inquire on this Forum. Since I've been a participant here for a number of years, I was comfortable posting my request. I will go ahead and use the spacing suggested by Phil Erickson, or something very close t
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After a nearly 30-year hobby building dozens (maybe hundreds) of fly rods, I'm finally building my first Spey Rod. My blank is from North Fork Composites, designated LMX FASY 1267-4 (fast); translating to 12'6" 4-piece, 7 wt, fast action rod. I'm very, very excited to start this build on this Loomis creation. But unfortunately NFC was unable to provide me with guide spacing, and understa
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Michael: Thank you for your comment. You have been one of my favorite contributors to this Forum for a long, long time. Now you just proved to me and our other readers how ignorant I am about "single foot wire guides" and why I was asking. Moreover, had I read the forum's most recent contributions, as I usually do, I would have seen a recent, prior question about single foot guides,
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Although I've crafted fly rod blanks for many years and many rods, I have never used single foot snake guides. A fishing friend is building his first fly rod, and has said he likes the way single foot guides look. He asked me to comment, and of course I couldn't say much, other than to reply lots of fly fishers use them. Personally, I prefer the balanced look of double foot guides, and instinc
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One of the rod building outlets I buy from on line carries Hitena elasticized wrapping thread. My curiosity has kicked in, and I'm wondering if any of you have tried elasticized thread, or use it regularly. If so, please comment pro or con. Thanks, Jack
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Back in '92 when I started my fly rod building hobby, I used syringes, and had several mixing failures the first couple years. So in frustration, I raided the kitchen a found a 1/4 TSP/1.2 mil stainless steel measuring spoon. I've been using it since, and to date I've NEVER had a failure on at least 100 rods. I probably just jinxed myself!. I do receive syringes when I purchase certain epoxi
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Jake: For many years I considered St. Croix rods and blanks the best cost/quality equation in fly rods. Now that the Company is again marketing blanks, they have a Carbon 4 (graphite) model, 4-piece, fast blank, for exactly $100. Interestingly, if you order through the factory you can have the blank custom painted in any of 32 colors! Full disclosure: although I've built probably a dozen St
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Gentlemen: Thanks for your quick responses. If my fish eyes aren't caused by that new In 'N Out a few blocks away, it must be contamination coming from somewhere in my process.. I'm mentally going over my process repeatedly, and can now think of a few steps more vulnerable than others, so I'll start with those, perhaps do some testing, and make some changes, e.g. I trash most brushes afte
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I know this is an old subject on the Forum, but I'm baffled at why I've recently gotten a few Fish Eyes on my last couple wraps. So I need some advice. After previously reading about the problem here (before I ever had any), my perception is they are often caused by contamination. But in my work space I go to extremes to be Mr. Clean. I'm also very careful about bubble control, including abou
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I've been buying a few 90's St. Croix fly blanks from a relatively large supply that have been in storage for many years. I've built two for family use, and several more donated to San Diego Fly Fishers for their annual conservation fund raiser. Presently there are two I'm intrigued by, but totally unfamiliar with. The model designation is GFT 8' 4 and 8'6" 5, and evidently rolled in the
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Because I'd like to keep the rod, and I like the challenge of getting it in condition to make it a completed, finished rod, I'm thinking of Mark's option #1 or maybe #2. Either way, although I've read and heard a lot about PG, I have never used it. How is it applied? Does it act like finish epoxy and self level? Do you put it on a dryer? Is it a one-coat treatment? How heavy are the coat(s)
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A few months ago, I concluded Lamiglas had discontinued their fiberglass old line rods, because they had become very difficult to find, even on their website. Or perhaps they were going out of business altogether. As I recall the Lamiglas situation was discussed on this forum. Because I had previously wrapped four of their glass rods, and had none left for my own use, decided to build one more.
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For years I've gone through different methods of eliminating dust, fuzzies and fisheyes with mixed success. Most recently, in my continuing effort to eliminate risk altogether, I've come across a product known as Honest Organic Dry Wipes. They are produced and marketed to clean a baby's bottom and are 100% organic cotton: no additives, whatsoever. They are 5"x7" they don't shed, or
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This has certainly become and interesting and diverse topic. Here's another aside. Evidently the Lamiglas glass fly rod blanks have become very scarce. I don't think totally out of production, but maybe. I did a quick search and it seems Angler's Workshop has the blanks in several sizes. Jack
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I understand that some of the glass fly blanks being manufactured now, have much different, more modern actions, than those that many of us started fly fishing with 40+ years ago. But personally, I prefer those with the more traditional, slower than slow actions. Lamiglas has traditional blanks that are reasonably priced, fun to craft and wrap, and great fun for trout fishing in small streams.
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A friend broke about 2" of the tip of his fly rod. It's a 9' 5 wt. Winston B3LS. He's asked me to repair it for him. We've decided to cut another couple inches off just below the first snake, and just replace the snake guide with a new tip top. He'll end up with a rod about 8' 7" short one snake guide. He decided the fish won't know the difference, and he'll get used to it. So the
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Lately with the past few builds I've been getting fisheyes, waves and other distortions on my finish work. I have a question for the chemists among you. When I first started crafting fly rods, I used Acetone as a solvent for cleanup with finish epoxy. I believe most of my finish work was satisfactory to good, but I found the vapors from acetone irritating. So I started using Sunnyside Brand
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Peter: Sorry I didn't respond more quickly, but we were in Mexico for a few days and out of touch. The owner of Stroud's is Rick Vorst. They're only open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, 10-4, I think. Phone is 619-276-4822. If Rick isn't in, Craig knows where the blanks are kept. The reason they have all those old blanks is a long story, but it's all legit, and the blanks for the mos
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Try Stroud Tackle in San Diego. Rick has a large supply of older St Croix blanks. If he has your blank it will be less than replacing the mid section thru the company. There’s a blank inventory on the website: stroudtackle.com Jack
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I've been crafting and wrapping fly rods for 26 years, as a hobby. Back when I first started, and for quite a few years, I used the syringes provided by Flex Coat. I had too many bad mixes using those syringes. So for probably at least 15 years now, I've been using a 1.2 ml (1/4 TSP) stainless steel measuring spoon; of the type commonly used for cooking. I guess I've built about 50 rods usi
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I’ve used different size threads, copper wire, and tippet material. In recent years I’ve used dental floss because it is extremely strong and easy to work with. Stay away from floss that has “flavors” or are excessively waxy. I think they all have some wax but there are a few brands with a very slick finish but very little wax. Give your floss a fingernail test to make sure it doesn’t shed wax
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Thanks Mark: I didn't know U40 had the cork dressing product. I'll give it a try. By the way, I'm in San Diego, so also enjoying the diminishing supply of needed products. I was able to get DNA thru Amazon shortly after the ban. I don't know if it's still available. Thanks again, Jack
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I'm wrapping a 7' 3-4 wt. glass fly rod, and for the first time I'm using a cork insert for the reel seat. Although I once owned a Sage LL 7' 4 wt with a cork insert, I can't remember if the insert had a "finish" or was just "unfinished" cork. Any advice on if it needs to be finished, and what finishes could be used, if needed, will be much appreciated. Thanks, Jack
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For years I satisfactorily used heat stick glue. But I found it difficult to work with, and somewhat messy. After some experimenting I've recently been using Super Glue, Future Glue GEL. It is much easier to work with and easier to neatly control the application. I wrap fly rods, and for my purposes it seems as strong as the heat stick glue; and breaks down for adjustment or removal with a co
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I'm very late to the news that Mud Hole J(Pro Products) acquired Roddancer, including Threadmaster finish in May, 2019. I read a Press Release, but haven't found any comment regarding retaining the Threadmaster finish formula. Has Mud Hole made any announcements pertaining to the finish formula? Thanks Jack
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In the 20+ years I've been crafting graphite and glass fly rods, I've used masking tape to shim up a blank for a reel seat or handle. The use of masking tape seems to be the standard shim to create a tight fit. I did read years ago, that some builders use package wrap tape because it is "harder" when layered, and not as "spongy" as masking tape. I tried it once years ago,
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I've been wrapping graphite and glass fly rods as a hobby for more than 20 years: probably 70-80 rods. I've always used "high build" mostly Flex Coat, and for the most part my rods have turned out well. Except for an occasional "touch up" I've only finished with a single coat. But I'm thinking of trying a 2 coat finish using ThreadMaster light. I've heard very good reports
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