Thank you all for your input. After trying several of your suggestions, I was amazed at just how little material was needed to make a significant difference. In fact I found that a mere 1/4" x 3/4" single piece of Gorilla tape on the arched underneath side of the lower foot of the reel worked splendidly, both cosmetically and functionally.
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I have a particular fly reel that when tightened down on a specific uplocking reel seat, I almost run out of threads on the reel seat before it is nice and snug. I'm not sure I want to try and remove the butt cap and even then, I'm not sure I have another matching threaded lock ring in order to reduce the travel. Obviously I can wrap some masking tape around that lower reel foot but was wonderi
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Does placing hard wax on a male glass or graphite ferrule more likely..... 1. ensure the two pieces stick together better as in less likely to work loose while fishing 2. reduce the chances that the 2 sections will stick together so badly that you can't get them apart 3. both 1 and 2 4. neither 1 or 2 As always, thank you for your input.
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Just curious if anyone had made use of PacBay's Metallic thread and is it similar to Sulky metallic thread in the way that it handles and appears once finish is applied without CP ? Thinking about using their orange metallic thread on an orange glass fly rod but have never worked with the stuff. As always, thank you for your input.
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thanks
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The key is knowing where the fit it loose > - up inside the ferrule at the tip of the male > end, or at the bottom of the female end. > > ................. Tom, how does one make that differentiation ? Sorry if I'm asking a rudimentary question but is the misfitting location obvious?
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Thanks Tom and Norman. yes it is a tip over butt ferrule. I really appreciate your insight and suggestions. Rob
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I've been asked to repair an old Fenwick glass fly rod made in 1966-67. On one of the sections, the top male end is missing the black rubber filler cap or plug?. In the past with graphite rods I have simply used Rod Bond to fill the ferrule a short way down in order to reduce the chance of that end getting crushed. Is that acceptable for this glass rod as well? Also, the owner claims that thi
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Has anyone built upon either of the two newest TFO Finesse glass blanks? I can't really find too much info on these. I'm mostly interested in the TFO 7' 3/4 wt 3 pc. As always, thank you for your input.
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Dan Ertz Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Could it be a different/heavier fly line that is > making the rod feel different? Not likely, similar flies that I have use for years. I only wish I had "quantified" the rod when first purchased so I could directly compare that data, because it was one of the faster 9ft 5wt. rods that I had built up
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I have a TFO TiCr fly rod that I built and have used now for several years. It has taken countless smallmouth bass but, and this is subjective mind you, it doesn't seem as fast a rod as it was when I first built it. It seems to me to flex greater and further down the blank than it once did. Hard to quantify at this point in time but just wondered if this is at all possible. As always, thank y
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Bill, that SB781-3 looks just what I needed. I looked at the Batson catalog but obviously I over looked these blanks. Thanks again. And Chad, thanks for the suggestion, I too have used multi piece fly rod blanks before but generally only as a last resort if I couldn't find something already available that met my criteria, as for me it was always a hit or miss unless I already owned the fly
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Does anyone know of a relatively fast action 3 piece 6' 6" spinning blank in a medium light or medium action? I've got a canoe trip up north this summer and will be targeting smallmouth and would like a decent travel rod in case conditions don't allow me to use my fly rods. Again thank you for your input.
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If I had a 9' 4 piece fly rod from which I decided to create an 8' 6" rod by removing 6" either by A removing 3" from the handle section and 3" from the tip section B removing 6" from handle section C removing 6" from tip section What would be the likely consequences of the rod's action, power, recovery time or any other subjective/objective measurement for eac
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MHX 9' 5wt. 2 piece is quite fast and reasonable in cost. Very light weight blank as well.
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I have built up three of their fly rods, all very very light, and very fast. I personally like this taper but if you like a slower rod, look elsewhere.
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I see by the CC figures posted for the two MHX 9' 5wt blanks that the 2 piece seems to be .25 ounce lighter, a touch more powerful and an action angle that is slightly faster than the 4 piece model, but I was just curious if anyone has built on either or both of these models to get a more subjective opinion. Hard to believe the 2 pc 9' 5wt is only 1.30 ounces! Thanks.
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I was going to say, I've used Sulky metallic threads in the 142 series without CP forever with excellent results
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Jerry, I can only speak of the RX7 fly blanks and I have built on a bunch of them. Great blank for the $. Most are a moderate fast blank that many enjoy casting. Great company to deal with if needed and the blanks seem consistent from one model to the next, no surprises such as," I really liked the 5 wt but the 6 wt of the same series was a different rod entirely" type of thing.
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Has anyone proved to themselves that adding an extra guide or two (above and beyond the traditional 1 guide per foot plus 1) and using smaller than usual single foot guides added to the performance of the fly rod in that one achieved greater accuracy or distance? I would appreciate your thoughts and comments.
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Tom, considering this because the top most section of a certain rod has a tendency to come apart from the next section when casting larger and heavier Clouser type flies after a long afternoon of fishing. Once bonded, there would be no concern of it coming apart or rotating so the guides are no longer straight. The ability to transport the 4 pc vs the 2 pc is not an issue here. Thanks again.
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Let's say you have a typical 9' 4 piece fly rod but you want to bond the two lower pieces together and then the two upper pieces together, so in effect, you will now have a two piece rod. Would you be concerned about wrapping and finishing the two female portions of the rod sections that you are about to bond? Do you feel that it would be needed for strength to insure the female portion of the
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Do you have any ideas for removing several coats of Tru Oil that were once applied to a cork grip by a less invasive manner? As always, thank you for your input.
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Thank you all for your excellent suggestions. Will give it a go.
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Are there any tricks to replacing a new pre formed half wells cork grip from the bottom of the base section? I realize that I would remove the present reel seat but of course the taper of the inlet of the new cork will not be as sweet as when putting on originally from the top down. Problem is there is some nice art work above the winding check that I wish not to disturb and that would prevent
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All my own personal spinning rods have had Tennessee handles for the last 15 years. Nuttin' better !
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Thanks Ken, I wasn't sure if the epoxy would harden properly and clear over super glue
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I've got a small gold size 28 or 30 hook that I would like to place on top of a butt wrap and cover with finish. Is there a good way to adhere the hook before applying my finish? For feather inlays in the past, I always used some color preservative diluted with a few drops of alcohol but my color preservative is probably 10 years old or more and don't want to take any chance that it might cause
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Bill, you don't even have to use silk. Standard Gudebrod light gray nylon will disapear as well with finish. The idea was I'm sure to get away from wraps and not so much the clarity of the guide foot showing thru, but I could be wrong.
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Kind of an interesting take on applying guides without thread wraps. Wonder how strong or durable this stuff is?
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