Looking for a blank to use an electric reel on. I would like the blank to be able to comfortably handle 5 lbs, but have a fairly light tip. I have a St Croix but it struggles with 3lbs, and I also have a Rainshadow 7' 60-130 that can handle up to 4lbs. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Thanks Tom. A much cheaper solution than building another one.
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What I needed to do in the past to make level winds lay level is to move the butt guide to the opposite side of the spiral. For example if the spiral is to the left, i would move the butt guide to the right so that the left inner surface of the ring is centered on the rod.
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Hi all. After tilefishing for a few years I'm getting tired of manually cranking. I recently purchased a Daiwa Tanacom 1000 electric reel. Since its a level wind and my existing rods are built for non-levelwind reels and bias the line lay to the left so I can push with the thumb, should I move the stripper guides to the right to center the line lay or just build another rod and if so any blan
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Go to onlinemetals.com for a huge selection of aluminum tubing in a wide variety of sizes and wall thicknesses.
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Hi all. I have a tilefish rod I built on a 79XXXH St. Croix Musky with 3" cut from the tip and six inches added to the butt (aluminum tube behind the reel seat). While it handles 2 lbs of lead with ease and 3 in a pinch, 4lbs seems to be a bit heavy. I would like to build one that comfortably handles 5 lbs in case the drift speed requires it. I would require the blank to be graphite with a f
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Personally, I use 10 wt. Spey blanks for panfish.
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Layout the 0 and 180 axes. After the first crosses are laid down, lay the 90 and 270 threads in between the first pass and tweak as you wrap by packing accordingly.
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What I would do to keep it old school looking is get Pac Bay Minima 4 guides and top (very light and inexpensive) and wrap the guides with a spiral motif, then add a diamond wrap to the but and call it a day. Plenty of info on this site regarding NGC guide layout. Good luck.
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I use 10/11 wt spey blanks for that purpose. Plenty of inexpensive blanks available on the @#$%& site.
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I first started when I used a garcia flipping rod to jig blues and one of the guides broke. I had a hard time finding one guide but found a set at Hermans sporting goods. The rod looked rough but caught many fish. I then found a lamiglas honey steelhead blank and built my first rod from scratch. Then the disease took full hold.
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Ben, That's pretty much it. The only thing I will ad is I found that the line tends to stack to one side when using a levelwind reel. In this case, what I do is the following. Lay out the guides as you described. Then rotate the stripper guide opposite the direction of the spiral so the line coming off the spiral side of the stripper guide is dead centered on the reel spool. Then crank some l
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I use drywall mesh tape in one inch wide strips with a 2" strip underneath where the reel seat is, especially if there is a reel clamp.
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Great post, Billy. Let us also not forget that there are not that many suppliers willing to produce products for the rodbuilding community. Insulting them will only serve to eventually drive them away.
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I use pro-kote and three minutes is the mixing time epr the manuf.
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I cut the threads to length, anchor them and run them through a comb.
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Wind knots come from poor line control during casting. If you feather the line with your finger and stop it with your finger before you close the bail on a spinning reel, you will likely never have wind knots. The L guides are fine. Understand that companies also need to "innovate" from time to time to keep consumers buying products.
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I've used ProWrap for a long time with no complaints.
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Pack, pack, pack and pack again. I found it helpful on long white wraps over black such as butt underwraps to pack every 5-8 threads very tightly as you go. It is tedious but I find it to work. I also like to apply CP to NCP white thread anyway as I found sometimes the thread is unevenly treated or in the case of old gudebrod thread thats been sitting around for a while that the result is a bit i
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On my UL rods I was getting Loops in the reel > I put a small swivel at the end of my braid 4 LB > and they had stopped Seems the bait was spinning > and causing loops in the spool I found that using a spinning reel without a swivel somewhere in the business end of the rig, is just asking for loop
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Jeff, I have purchased many items from the vendor in question over the years and at the end of the order they allow you to insert comments prior to confirmation. You could specify first class mail.
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No one? To clarify, I searched numerous fishing forums posts related to this issue but no one who has used the St Croix M79xxxHF provides any information as to trimming, lengthening, or trimming and lengthening.
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I use blue painters tapeto tape the tag end of the thread to the blank. I also use a small wrap of tape for the beginning of the wrap to lie straight against (If the wrap is simple). Once I have six wraps around the tag end of the thread, I line up the tag end with the guide foot (spinning, fly or 180 spiral guide) or on the blind side of the rod (all guides on the top of the rod). I then cut the
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Hi. I just picked up one of the last few remaining Croix 79xxxHF's out there on a fire sale and plan to build it into a tilefish rod. For those of you who have done this, have you left the rod in its original length or have you trimmed it/added a butt and/or cut the tip?
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Billy Vivona Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > CAptain Richie bashes me every chance he can get, > to his customers, many are my friends that he > doesn't know are my friends. It's been goin on for > several years. Most of the guys who chime in are > friends of his. > > When the HErcules came out there were some that > broke, this
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I use spar urethane over the underwrap. I find it dries quite hard and makes it very easy to wrap over.
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Thanks. I also considered the Virtus heavies with probably an SIC tip
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Last year I attended Billy's tilefish seminar and I am finally getting around to building a tilefish rod for next spring. I picked up an inexpensive glass blank from TRL which can handle 4lbs after a 6"cut. I will then extend the butt by 6" to maintain the 7.5' length. My questions pertain to guides and wrapping: 1. Is a roller top a good idea or should I just stick with a Fuji S
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Do the pimples look like craters or bubbles? Is it possible you mixed two syringes of the same component (resin or hardener)? Can you post a photo?
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Dan, How old is your granddaughter? My youngest daughter is five and I built her a 7' rod and she handles it fine. If you build it light (graphite blank, minima guides, Tennessee handle for example), it should be no problem for her. Whichever way you decide to go, good luck.
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