Hi everyone,

I'm working on my first blank, a Seeker CTSF63XXXH Graphite, and am making it a rail rod. In the process of trying not make a huge mess, I accidentally erased the roller guide markings the guy at the tackle shop marked for me. So, here I am wondering if anyone knows the measurements for the roller guides for this rod.

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Darlene

Most builders would have to have the blank in hand in order to do a static stress distribution test which would properly locate the guide positions for that particular blank. Failing that, you could do your own test, or if you don't mind just using factory type spacing you might try the Seeker web site at www.seekerrods.com. They may have factory suggested spacing charts there. If they build that same model as a rail rod and your rod is configured the same, then it should work okay.

As you progress in rod building skill, you will find it beneficial to gain an understanding of the how and why of guide placement. Once you do, you'll never again have to wonder where the guides should be located or refer to somebody's generic placement chart.

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Yes, Seeker makes this blank into a rail rod. I could not find any factory suggested spacing charts and they have failed to respond to my query.

I know Seeker's website has changed - do you by chance know the URL of the spacing chart?

Also, how do I do a stress test?

Thanks,
Darlene

A stress test is not hard to do but takes a bit of time. I'll see if I can run you through it here in very brief terms.

Remember that your goal is to have line follow the curvature of the blank without overly 'flat spotting" or touching the blank when under load. Get the blank into a position where it can be loaded and held in that position. (It is easier if the handle is already constructed and the choosen reel locked in the seat.) Have the top mounted and tie a line to the top and flex and load the rod and keep it in that position. Now place the guides by eye along the blank in a progressive manner that pretty closely matches the blank's taper. Run a line from the reel through the guides and out past the tip. Tighten it and observe the line flow. (A separate line from the tip is used to load the blank because if you use the same line that is running through the guides the blanks curvature will change as guide positions change. Won't hurt too much, but won't be optimum.)

Does it flow smoothly from the reel to the first guide? Does it touch the foregrip? Does it have to turn a sharp corner coming from the extreme edge of the reel spool to the first guide? These things will determine the position and sizing of the first guide. From there you want to see the line flow along the curvature of the blank. Does it appear to "flat spot" between any of the guides? Does it touch the blank anywhere? You may need to readjust spacing to get the line flow you desire. You may have to add a guide to keep it off the blank if careful positioning just won't do it. If you hit it right on the first attempt, maybe try taking one guide away and seeing if you can still get the desired results.

This is the old-fashioned, manual method of guide placment. It also provides the best results if you're careful and take the time to tweak everything so it is just right. Yes, it's extra work, but part of a carefully constructed custom rod.

Hope this helps somewhat. I am sure others will respond in due course.

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I had not thought about the line going through the guides. Depending upon where you locate the guides the overall curvature of the blank will be affected. hadn't given that much thought. From now on I'll use a separate line tied off to the tip to put the blank under stress. Thanks.

Thanks Tom, I will work with your advice and see how it turns out.

Thanks everyone for your helpful advice. I did the stress test and did the temporary taping of the roller guides to the blank. I think I have it now and will post a picture when done wrapping the blank. I did a test wrapping of an old Ugly stick rod and after I applied the flexcoat finish, I noticed tiny air bubbles after 3 hours of drying. I do not know where they came from, as there were none when I applied the finish in the first place.

Anyway, thanks again everyone.

Darlene,
Check out the post "Darned Bubbles Again" by Tom further down on
this list. There is quite a bit of info on finishes. Ed