I'm a bit confused - my very very very nice brother gave me a T&T SC 967-4 blank for christmas - great guy :-). So I was going to fit it the traditional way with two (and maybe a "third guide") stripping guides and single foot wire snakes and a wire tip top.

But now I can se that people are beginning to talk about Alconite and SIC guides, single foot stripping guides etc. I used SIC guides on a 6-weight about 10 years ago (my first rod) but have never used them since. I really dont know why because it still works great.

Also I was planning on using the recommended spacing provided by T&T but then I read Tom's post about a whole new concept.

This leaves a lot of questions:

1. Won't the SIC type single foot guides add extra weight compared to wire single foot snakes ?
2. Should I wait for Tom's new spacing concept ?
3. Should I use SIC, Alconite or titanium if the rod is to be used i saltwater ?
4. How do I make a secure wrap on single foot stripping guides ?
5. Which size of SIC's should I use for this rod ?
6. Will the number of SIC/Alconite guides differ from the recomendation given by T&T ?

I also read a post by a guy who suddenly could cast longer than before using the guides and a different spacing - I would really like that to happen :-)

Another thing - does any of you twist the stripping guides to one side like 15 degrees to the left or right - decreasing the angle as they come closer to the rest of the guides (if you know what I mean) ?

I really hope someone will clarify things for me

Thanks
Regards
Peter

If the cost does not scare you off, the SIC are outstanding guides. Alconites come in a close second and at very little cost. They are good guides.

You will not be adding any extra weight. Keep your wraps short, starting them just off the end of the guide foot. Go easy on the finish amount.

The factory spacing will be sufficient, although your own static stress test, or the use of Don Morton's equal angle system will give you a bit better spacing.

I assume you are working with a 9'6" 7 weight. I'd try something like SVSG16, SVSG 12, SG 10, 8 and then SG7's on out. I'd guess you need about 11 or 12 guides plus a top. This is just a suggestion and you'll do yourself a big favor by trying some different set-ups. I gave model numbers for the SIC but Alconites are available in just about the same frame styles.

A security wrap is made by continuing the wrap for two or thread turns past the guide ring leg. The Forhan wrap entails encircling the guide leg, three times, with the thread and then continuing on to the tie-off.

All of these things have been described in great detail in RodMaker Magazine.

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Tom--while we're talking guides answer this one for me. On the smaller PacBay single foot ceramic lined guides the foot flares nicely as you approach the upright. Then about 1/8" back from the upright it starts to curve inward. The result is that the threads tend to follow the curve and won't stay tightly packed. Consequently I have had to just stop my wraps where the curve starts. On the larger single foot guides the flare stays straight all the way to the upright and I have been able to take my threads all the way. Is there a reason for this or did H&H just get a bad batch of PacBay single foot guides?

FlyDoctor

No, I think the guide makers try to shape their guide feet so they gain some purchase on the blank. By flaring the foot and then bringing it back in, the hope is that it makes it harder to pull the guide out from under the wrap.

Stopping your wrap short increases the leverage that can be placed on your wrap though, and it might increase the likelihood that it will loosen and pull out over time.

If I were you, I'd take the liberty of grinding/filing the guide feet to whatever shape you desire. I routinely reshape the width of my feet so they will fit the blank I am working on. Just grind the offended width off. Round over and polish off. Won't hurt a thing and will make it easier to wrap.

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Peter,
Also consider an alternative that is nearly as hard as SiC with Zircon ring. These also are available with titanium carbide frames that are light weight and a best bet for saltwater anti-corrosion.
We offer these to rodbuilders under the Forecast or Pacific Bay names and are using these fairly regularly to build some very nice and performance oriented custom rods. You might consider giving them a try in either the TiN (tigold) ring or TiCH ring and remember also you can set these up in concept guide system arrangement with smaller lighter ones near the tip.

Rich
Richard's Rod & Reel
Solyrich Custom Rods.

Get Fuji TLSGs. These are the lightest, strongest SiC single footers extant. Cannot corrode because the frames are titanium alloy and not an applied finish.

I've put 20 6's in my hand and couldn't tell that anything was there. I've put 'em on 30# saltwater conventional rods with the Forhan locking wrap. Simply brilliant. And pricey.

For a stripper, use the Fuji TLNSGs, same thing only with 2 feet.