I'm looking for any information, opinions, or tips on turning reel seats, hosels, and end caps from square wood blanks. Should I shape the reel seat first using a drive center and live center and then bore the hole? Should I bore the hole first and place the blank on a mandrel to be turned? Should the bore size be as large as possible to minimize weight and then shim out the blank to fit? or Should the bore size fit the blank as closely as possible? I plan on using stabilized wood so hopefully strength will not be an issue if thin walls are needed. Also the inserts will be for spinning rods if balance is a consideration. I would like to add, all of you people out there who add their hard earned input and knowledge to this site can't imagine how much it is appreciated by those of us new to this hobby. It truely makes rod building a hobby unique to all others! Thanks in advance and fantastic web-site.

Strength isnot really an issue on this items. They are mostly just decorative. For that reason I make mine with a larger bore. That makes the insert weight less and I can shim with materials that are lighter than the wood would be. Same thing for hosels and caps I guess although they are usually small enough that extra weight is not much of a problem. I think if you need extra weight for balancing than you might want to keep the bore down to the blank size as close as possible. Then you'd have more weight.

I have some wood turning experience. In almost all cases you would turn the piece first and then bore it. But there is no reason you couldn't bore it first and then turn it on a mandrel. Doing it that way takes an extra piece of equipment though --- the mandrel.

From the square blank I first turn it to a cylinder. This allows me to put the cylinder in a chuck. With the chuck holding the cylinder I can drill the piece in the exact center on the lathe. The size is optional as it can be fitted to the rod adding some weight for balance or drilled to a large opening and use graphite arbors for a lighter seat. The hostels, but caps trim rings and other decrative wooden pieces can be turned with the stock locked in the chuck. A wood lathe with a large chuck is very helpful in turning wooden parts for rod work.

Joe,

Take a look at the e-zine Powerfibers at www.powerfibers.com The April issue had an article about turning reel seats. You'll need Adobe Acrobat software to access the pages but a link is provided for the free download should you need it.

I just read the powerfiber article on turning seats. I was interested to see what the stabilization method was, but it simply said to stabilize. Can someone explain the stabilization process? Thanks.

This web site has some good info.

[www.stabilizedwood.com]

Bob

My understanding is that typically an acrylic is used as the stabilization medium, applied under pressure. Some have used a solution of Plexiglas, dissolved in acetone, with clear airplane dope added, and achieved very desireable results. I suppose one could also use a CA but the fumes might be a little difficult to contain, not to mention adhereing oneself to the pressure tank.