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Blank painting-bonding question
Posted by:
Buddy Sanders
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 26, 2001 01:11PM
I have two blanks that I'm going to build as long spinning rods. I'm going to 'split' the butt grip, leaving a portion of the blank exposed. I want to do some decoration work here, as well as just above the foregrip (where traditional 'butt' wraps go?). I want to change the blank color in these areas. I'm pretty hany with an airbrush, and I have some ideas for something that would look really special. What I'm wrestling with is this. I want to pre-paint the entire lower end of the rod blank, from the butt to where the wrap above the foregrip will end with a suitable 'undercoat' before I assemble the grips and do the final airbrushing. If I just use some type of spray paint for this, will I interfere with the bonding of the reel seat and grips to the blank (I'll still follow the recommended 'clean, abrade with scotchbrite,bond' procedure)? Is there a certain type of paint that will work for this better than another? Are there any types of paints to avoid? I'll do the airbrushing with lacquers. I've read here that they can react adversely with some rod blank finishes, thus the reason for the 'undercoat'. The final 'wraps' will go over the airbrushed portion, then the final epoxy finish coats. I've already done a 'search' here, but the bonding issue wasn't addressed. I'll appreciate any information you could provide. Thanks, Buddy Re: Blank painting-bonding question
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(---.dialinx.net)
Date: December 26, 2001 02:53PM
There is always a weak link in the chain. The strongest bond for you components is directly to the blank with no paint or finish between them. But we should not assume that the paint or finish on our blanks, or that you might add, will not adhere sufficiently to stay put. If were glueing a small patch or spot to the paint/finish, I'd worry that the paint could lift. But typical grip and seat installations are bonded around the entire circumfrence. The bond between paint and blank is usually good enough that it does not fail us. Still, there is no reason why you could not remove the paint/finish in the area where your grips and seat will sit. Or mask them off before you paint. With the laquer, since you are not putting it on top of your other work, there should not be any reaction. I assume you are using this as an underlayment of a color that helps your threads stay bright. It should work okay. If it was me, I'd opt for an enamel or urethane over a lacquer but for your purposes it should be okay. ........................... Re: Blank painting-bonding question
Posted by:
Buddy Sanders
(---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: December 27, 2001 12:53AM
Tom, Thanks for the reply. The reason I'm using the lacquers is that they are a 'clear pigmented' product. They are intended for coloring glass, and you can get some amazing effects with them. I've not found any other coloring agent that works like they do. I've used them for years, both for their intended purpose and for coloring fishing lures. A far as masking off the portion under the grips/seat, I think that in the end that's what I'll end up doing. I was just worried about how accurate I would be in my set up for this, but now that I think about it, a bit of paint under the grip won't be a major problem... Thanks again for all your help. Buddy Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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