I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2019 EXPO
EXPO ON FACEBOOK
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
All American Guides
American Tackle
Angler’s Roost
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
BRC Rods
Bingham Enterprises
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
CTS New Zealand
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
Reelseatblanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rougarou Rods
Rodgeeks
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Magazine Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

cracked blank
Posted by: Mick (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: July 04, 2001 08:42PM

I received a blank and when I got around to taking it out of the package I noticed that at the very butt end there are some cracks or splits like it got crushed in shipping. What I want to know is if I take a very thin walled blank and insert it into the end of this one and epoxy it in place will all be well? These cracks extend maybe about 4 inches up the blank and no more. I would just put this other scrap piece of blank in there for a length of about 5 inches to shore things up. Seems to me that it would work. Any reason not to do it?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: cracked blank
Posted by: Neil (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: July 04, 2001 09:01PM

As stated earlier I'm no pro but if I did that I'd only use for something I was building for myself, that way if it failed it's no big deal, pass that thing on to a customer and have it fail and lets say he shows a buddy or two and one pops off the butt cap and says hey man look at this here. Your credability just went south with the owner and all of his friends. Contact the shipper about damaged goods or write it off but like I said I ain't in the business. Neil

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: cracked blank
Posted by: Mick (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: July 04, 2001 09:06PM

I am just assuming that since we're talking about the very butt end that its not a place that receives much flex anyway. I wouldn't think it would fail there unless somebody stepped on it or crushed it again.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: cracked blank
Posted by: Todd (---.vanc2.pacifier.com)
Date: July 05, 2001 03:23PM

Mick, I fairly regularly extend blanks by inserting a section into the butt. You just need to be careful, if it is really cracked I would cut the blank up to where the cracks end. Then find the extension piece, depending on what type of blank you are doing, I would use at least 4" of hold. Make sure it is glued very well and I also would either reinforce the butt of the actual blank with at good tight thread wrap or some strong glue. This type of repair should hold up for the life of the rod.

Todd

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: cracked blank
Posted by: Manuel (65.112.216.---)
Date: July 06, 2001 12:38PM

Contact the supplier first before you attempt to fix this, they may just replace it for you. I've done that type of repair before on smaller rods and have had them fail. I epoxied well past the end of the cracks, but still failed. These were small ice rods I did for myself, so there was more flex into the butt section, not sure how much flex your blank will take there.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: cracked blank
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.dialinx.net)
Date: July 07, 2001 09:29AM

Mick,

If you are sure the cracks do not extend any further than what you say, it will be just fine to use an inner sleeve to reinforce that area. On a blank intended for mostly light duty use - most freshwater or very light saltwater applications - choose a sleeve that is light and thin walled. It won't take much. Try to match taper as closely as possible and have the sleeve extend just about an inch or so past the most far reaching crack/split.

When you glue the sleeve in place, I would tightly wrap some heavy rubber bands around the outside of the reinforced area until the adhesive has cured. Then peel off the bands, clean up the outside of the blank and install your grip.

On blanks intended for heavier applications, I would use a sleeve with a bit heavier walls and add some reinforcing thread wraps to the exterior of the repaired area, as Todd mentioned.

If this is a really heavy-duty blank, such as for heavy boat or trolling where you may be using a gimbal or uni-butt ferrule, I'd return it for a solid replacement.

Tom Kirkman
RodMaker Magazine

......................

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster