I am planning on making this into a jerkbait rod. It seems like it wouls fit the build but im not quite sure. Anyone have suggestions?

Nate

I have two rods built on that blank. One thing I am absolutely certain about, is that it will cast a bait like a Vision 110 Jr, or regular Vision 110, as far as you would want to cast it. The 725 has an awesome tip. One thing I wouldn't be so sure about, is how well it would work for landing fish hooked on treble hooked baits. It's not an overly powerful blank, but it's got a pretty decent backbone. I know I personally I wouldn't choose the 725 to build a jerkbait rod on.

But with that said, while the two rods I have built on that blank are strictly for bottom contact baits, I did on one occasion, have a Bill and Ted most excellent adventure kind of day, fishing a 3/8 oz chatterbait, and catching many quality smallmouth bass. I'd also imagine it would make a really nice spinnerbait rod for baits up to 1/2 oz.

Just not sure how well it would land fish that are hooked on treble hooked baits. Look at it this way though..... if it doesn't work out as a jerkbait rod, you will have a rod that is beyond compare, when it comes to fishing bottom contact baits. Without a doubt the most sensitive and responsive blank I have ever built on.

It is insanely good.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/20/2024 07:12PM by David Baylor.

It’s an exceptional blank, but the short answer is - it’s not a jerk bait blank.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2024 01:39PM by John Santos.

Whats the best use for this rod?

Its more suited for a bottom contact rod because of its sensitivity and weight - Texas rigs, jigs, tubes, etc. A better option for a jerkbait rod would be the Rainshadow ETEC68M or the NFC X-ray MB684. The NFC MB684 is a little stiffer (and faster recovery). The "stiffer" might scare people concerned with the small trebles on many jerkbaits, but I haven't had any issues yet (I do, personally, prefer the Rainshadow though). I have not had my hands on the NFC X-ray SB684, that might offer something closer to the Rainshadow, or possibly softer than the other two. These will also serve as great topwater and squarebill rods. I prefer an 8" handle for the jerking/twitching part.

Nate,

Best use for this rod is OFTEN!

I built a 725 in both spinning and casting layouts and love them. This blank is a multi-tool, IME. It's a relatively new blank so the reviews are still coming in from the community about its sweet spots. I suspect there are more than one.

The MB 725 C6O2 is the most sensitive blank I have. I agree with David that it is excellent for bottom contact baits of all types: jigs, Senkos, worms, shakey's, and tubes. I'd include bottom hopping blades and lipless in cold water. The more subtle the bite, the more the 725 shines.

As someone recently shared with me, "Jerk bait fishing is one of the most personalized techniques of them all." I absolutely understand that sentiment.

Try the 725 with a variety of jerk baits and see how you like it is all I can say. I do know the 725 is excellent for some of the larger jerk baits with "bigger hooks" if you are concerned with pulling "smaller hooks". The Rapala Sub-Walker is a type of jerk bait without small hooks. So are Super/Mag Flukes rigged with a 3/0 to 4/0 EWG Super Line worm hook if you want some extra steel. The 725 is up to it.

IME, the 725 will throw almost any jerk or twitch bait from 1/4 to 5/8+ oz. as far as you can fish and feel it. It will transmit the smallest "tic" or "bump" of a take when I do my part a pay attention and manage my line. I think it could work a Kanata (1oz.) very well, too. Need to try it out. I have a theory about slightly over-weighting some techniques if the rod actually fishes that lure better than a rod "rated" for a certain lure weight range. Get the fish on first, is my mantra.

I keep my reel's drag set lighter with small and light hooks whatever the rod. I don't get in a hurry to get a fish to the net. Small hooks can be plenty strong to land a large fish if the drag is set appropriately and the fish is hooked well. Granted, I fish jerk baits more in the winter when fish are less likely to jump and head shake. That's my experience. (My jerk bait fish are often multi-hooked in any case.)

Personally, I don't worry about keeping fish pinned as much as I do about getting the fish on in the first place. If a rod is working the lure I want in a way that gets bit often, even if it is not "supposed" to be that kind of rod....well, I'll adapt on my end and let the rod and bait go to work. If I am missing and losing more than I like, I'll make a change.

I caught a pre-spawn, big girl bass fishing a top-water frog in Mid-March in Missouri on my 725 caster. Worked the frog great. Got bit. Took the picture. Released the fish. I'm happy.

It stretched my definitions about what the 725 is best for in my fishery.

For me, the MB 725 C6O2 blank is best suite for, as John says, bottom contact baits. It's other worldly in that aspect. Every time I fish the rods I have built on that blank, the deeper I fall in love with it. I've talked to Les pretty extensively about the blank, and in our conversations I've said the blank may be more versatile than I consider it to be. And I am certain that it is. But other than the chatterbait day I mentioned earlier, I haven't tried it for anything other than bottom contact baits.

As far as a jerkbait rod blank, my current jerkbait rod, which I am really happy with, is built on a trimmed down Rainshadow REVS68ML blank. I trimmed 7" off the butt, which reduced the power pretty substantially, and slowed the action. Pretty much all of the jerkbaits I throw are 110 Vision size, or smaller. So they have more diminutive hooks, and that's why I look more more flex into the midsection of the blank. Based on a rod I have built on a Rainshadow ETEC72M blank, I can more than understand John liking the jerkbait rod he has built on the ETEC68M blank. In fact I'd bet it would make an awesome jerkbait rod.

Based on a rod I have built on an NFC SB 724 X ray blank, and the MB 724 X ray blanks I have, but haven't built on yet, I personally probably wouldn't be looking at the MB 684 as a jerkbait rod. I just find the 4 power NFC blanks I've built on a bit stiff in their mid section, for what I look for in a jerkbait rod. Based on my experience with NFC 4 powers, I'd be looking to trim 6" or so off the butt were I building a jerkbait rod.

But that's just me. I'm one of those anglers Les alluded to when he shared what someone said to him about jerkbait fishing. They are definitely an animal all to their own. What one person looks for in a jerkbait rod, may be entirely different than what another person looks for. And both persons would be right in their assessments.

Thumbs up, David! You hit the nail again.

My comments are about the potential versatility of the MB 725 C6O2 more than its particular suitability for jerk baits. I wanted to move the needle off the, "This rod/blank is for a specific technique." Grooves can get formed on the vinyl album of blanks prematurely, IMO.

As David said here, and in other topics and conversations, the 725 absolutely covers the check for bottom contact baits. A+ in this category.

Personally, I'm game for expanding the range of this excellent blank where and when it works in my fishing. There are many blanks out there that may be more dialed in for specific techniques with a specific range and type of lure. For sure! No argument from me. To answer the question if the MB 725 C6O2 is a good jerk bait rod?.... the jury and verdict may still be out there with more evidence to come. That's how I see it.

Thank you all so much! I love rod building but have a hard time/lack of knowledge figuring out what rods best suit different techniques

Nate, I don't know if you're familiar with CCS numbers, and how they relate to blank performance, or not? The basic CCS numbers IP (ERN if you're a purist) which is rod power, and AA, which is action angle, and defines a blank action, while not telling the whole story on how a blank will fish, can definitely point you in the right direction.

In order to make CCS numbers mean something, other than just the higher number means a rod is more powerful, or has a faster action than another rod, is to make them relatable. If you know the CCS numbers for a rod that you love for a certain type of bait, or fishing condition, then you can relate those numbers to blanks you may be considering for that same use. If you like a particular rod, but wished it was a little less powerful, or a little more powerful, or had a slightly slower or faster action, just look for blank with different numbers.

The larger the CCS data base for rods you've already personally used, the better you will be able to judge how the differences in power, and action relate to your fishing. Like, oh this rod has too much power for this specific bait, but this other rod has too little power for that bait. Splitting the difference CCS number wise between those two rods, may be the sweet spot for your type of fishing.

I use CCS numbers to select blanks almost 100% of the times. The only times I don't, is when I can't find CCS numbers for a specific blank I'm interested in. Then I got by lure weight, and line size rating. That hasn't always worked out for me, But the times that it hasn't are far less than the times it had. But still, any blank recommendation a person gives, is based on their personal preferences.

Anyhow .... if you haven't preformed CCS testing on any of your current rods, I'd suggest you do, because it can really be of great use in selecting blanks. The testing is not hard to do, and other than a tape measure, and a whole bunch of pennies, doesn't require any special tools.

And as Les is alluding to........ you never know what a rod is good, or isn't good for, until you try it. And that is an invaluable lesson to be sure.

To piggyback on the CCS discsussion, one of the best production jerkbait rods available, the Shimano Expride A 610M has an IP of 580g and an AA ~70.

If you cut down the MB725 to 6'10, i bet youd end up around these same numbers as the expride. The MB725 would probably be a little more powerful and possibly a hair faster, but it would be in the ballpark. I bet it would make, at worst, a passable "power" jerkbait rod for 110s and bigger.

The MB725 is in the running for the best all around bass blank ever produced IMO. Its a little too fast and powerful to be my first choice for a dedicated jerkbait rod but give it a shot.

I am just starting to build my first MB725, leaning towards a guide train of: RV6, (3)KB's then KT's to the tiptop, I have not decided ring size yet but most likely 12-20lb fluorocarbon, possibly 12-20lb braid on occasion. Would very much love some advice about the guide choices as well as any experience with guide position and total number of KT's. I'm planning to run static deflection tests yet so any advice on a starting point would be great!

Thank you.

Rod,

Your guide train seems great to me. With the line ranges mentioned, I'd go with #5 ring KB and KT's. Your line choice top end of #20 fluoro is a big difference from #20 braid. However, I think the 5's will cover it. If you want to keep it in the #10-12 fluoro range with #20 braid, you could go with #4.5 rings.

(If you go with Fuji Torzite rings, they are a half-size larger than what they are listed: 4.5mm Torzite are more like 5mm Alconite or SIC diameter.)

Number of guides on my rod:

(1) RV 6
(3) #5 KB's
(7) #5 KT's
(1) #5 LG tip top.

My guide positions:

* RV6 = 20 inches from reel face. (Keep in 19 to 21 inch range, IMO)
* With tip top installed, my first KT is placed 3.5 inches from tip top. I will typically place the next three or four KT's also 3.5 inches apart.
* Progressive space the rest of the KT's and KB's to the RV6. (The last KB is 7 inches from the RV6 on my rod.....that's not written in stone.)
Static line test and adjust as needed.

I suggest you stay under #20 fluoro on this rod (better with #10 or #12 fluoro range) as I think you will find it fishes more like a "heavy medium" or "light medium heavy" if that makes any sense.

My CCS numbers for the 725 C6O2: IP = 665.5 grams; AA = 78 degrees

SWEET BLANK! I also built one as a spinner!

Les has you dialed in with his thinking on guide sizes and line sizes.

They only thing I might personally change from his suggestions, would be, and it's based on line type and size is ..... if you think you might be using heavier fluorocarbon lines most often, say 17# test and up, you may want to experiment a bit with your distance from the reel face to the butt guide.

I run 15 - 20# fluorocarbon lines on the majority of my rods. I use a KW 10 as the butt guide instead of an RV 6, and place my butt guide at 21.5" from the reel face. The 20" that Les suggested will definitely work and work well. It's just been my experience that a little extra distance helps with those stiffer line sizes.

As far as the blank you're building on ....... you will run out of words to describe just how good it is.

Ahoy there Les and David,

I'm already out of words by the great info given:) Thank you both. I'm a giant fan of both butt guides so maybe I should keep it a little more "purpose driven" as I was hoping to use it as a Senko rod that could also cover the bases on bottom contact baits such as Ned, Tokyo or casting Drop Shots...

Thank you once again and I will do exactly as you've laid the train out depending on my final choice of the RV6 or KW10.

Many thanks,
Rod Hartzog

Right on, Rod!

Seriously consider what David suggests with heavier and stiffer fluoro lines. The stiffer the line, the more a gradual change in the angle from spool guide to first KB guide benefits casting performance.

Stiff lines do not respond well to abrupt changes in line path angle. If primarily running up to #15 to #20 fluoro, I am all on board with David in suggesting a KW10 to KW5.5 reduction train followed by your 5mm KB's and KT's. (The KW 10 is slightly taller in frame height than the RV6, and the extra I.D. of the 10mm ring will not hurt you with managing the heavier and stiffer fluoro or mono lines you may want to use. The KW5.5mm creates a middle step to lessen the angle as the line flows down from the spool guide, through the butt guide and into the running guides (KB's and KT's of 4.5mm to 5mm).

A KW10 and KW5.5 also will not hurt you if you use braided line up to #60 range, IME. This might be the most fool-proof and versatile KRC casting rod train.

IME, the RV6 set up is a little more suited to braid or braid and leader rigs under #20. I was going to say the RV6 is more of a finesse set up, but I have it on a swimbait rod with #40 braid/leader and it casts really well. But I think it would not cast as well with straight #20 fluoro. (Isn't #40 braid about #10 fluoro diameter? That's why I like to max out the RV6 at about #10 to #12 with straight fluoro. To be honest, I've not tested heavier fluoro lines than that with an RV6 layout.) An RV6 layout is excellent with braid up to #20 and fluoro up to #12 = great for your medium light to medium + rigs. There. I finally got it in one sentence!

Let us all hear about what you chose and how you like it!