Hello folks,
I'm building a popping rod for inshore spinning, double foot guides until the tip.
I have a question regarding epoxy:

is it better to apply epoxy at the end of guides placement or a thin coat on underwraps (to protect them during wrap of additional tread layer) is allowed?

yhanks
GM

You can do it either way, but I prefer to put finish on top of the underwrap. This assures you get good coverage and saturation. The main function of the underwrap is to be a cushion between the feet and the blank on rods that will see heavy loads. The finish helps do that.

I cannot imagine using under wraps on such a rod. Totally unnecessary. All they on such a light rod is slow down the speed and make it less responsive.

Hello All.

I'm with Mike on this one, waaayyyy too much overkill!!


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Giammaria,

Do you need double foot guides all the way to the tip? If you do, then you do.

A bit more detail about your rod, reel, fish you are chasing, and purpose for the build can be useful in making suggestions and sharing experiences.

Most of the rods with under wraps I am familiar with are quite beefy with larger O.D.'s than what I think of for an inshore rod.

Thanks to all for you kind replies.
This rod is made to fish for mediterranean species such as small tunas, seabass and mediterranean barracudas. It's a Lamiglas blank from the old "Tropic Pro Jigging and Popping" lineup, conceived with the suggestions of a famous italian saltwater angler - Nicola Zingarelli from Caranx.net) who asked for a lighter jigging/popping rod (e.g. not for GTs) for the mediterranean species.

Blank code is NZ84-2M. Finished rod was coded TP7030SP

7' 2 pieces 1-3oz. lure weight.

A rod which will be mistreated shooting WTD, poppers and used for energic jerks.

Factory Lamiglas came out with double foot guides 'til the tip. Because of its age, condition and mediocre guides I stripped it down and repainted the blank, montage is follwing older Fuji NGC guidelines (I already have all the Titanium SiC guides for the job) for the ocean rods spinning - light class so the guide list:

MNSG30 - MNSG20 - MNSG 16 - LNSG 12 - LNSG 12 - LNSG 10 - LNSG 8 - MNST 8

So I don't think underwraps are so unnecessary. Most popping rods have them.
Underwrap is NON CONTINUOUS (to avoid useless amount of material) made with size A, overwrap with size D.

Here's a Photoshop simulation





Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2024 04:06PM by Gianmaria Vigo.

The lightest rod I’ve put them on is rated to five ounces, and it can get pressed into service as a backup for heavier uses than it’s designed. I’m not aware of a hard and fast rule for underwraps. I go light as I can on freshwater builds and error towards durability on at least a portion of saltwater builds that will be used in areas where getting to a tackle shop isn’t feasible. There is usually a balance between redundancy and being able to carry a nice range of rods. I once got down to my last casting rod and my last fly rod on Afognak Island. Popping is repetitive flexing with potential shock, so it seems reasonable to error towards durability. This would be especially true if you fish where plan “B’s” get limited.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2024 11:22PM by Kendall Cikanek.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Here's a link to a discussion about coating under wraps from a few years ago.

There are other discussions, too:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Hope this helps.

Very useful. Many thanks