Me again with the very first build. Please go easy on me with this one. Are the NFC labels stickers or a dry transfer? The reason I ask is I removed the backing, burnished, then peeled back the top layer and I still see a clear, slightly textured, border very close around the perimeter of the text. Basically a rectangular sticker. I’m tempted to peel this away, only because it was my understanding that it’s a dry transfer. But I obviously don’t want to do that and ruin it if this is how it’s meant to be. I’ll link to a picture. Thanks.
[imgur.com]

NFC labels are NOT a dry transfer - that is, the actual lettering is bonded to the thin, transparent material you see around the perimeter of the text..

It is a rectangular sticker of sorts, yes! The membrane is flexible and stretchy to conform to the surface of the blank.

This slightly textured border is part of the decal and will practically disappear once you coat it with epoxy.

You may have a spot or two of "resist" or "fish eye" when you epoxy coat over the decal. Not a worry. Normally, I try and drag a bit of the epoxy, once it is a bit thicker, over that area or spot. Otherwise, a second coat of epoxy will cover it up perfectly.

* Some put a coat of Color Preserver over the decal first, let it dry, then coat with epoxy. Tom K. suggested using an artists "Workable Fixatif" (Krylon is a brand I use on my pencil drawings - it comes in a spray can and a matte finish). If I wanted to use the fixative, I'd tape off my grips and any other area to limit the effects of overspray. Go light with the coats of both CP and fixative.

Thank you so much!

The "fixative" or even color preserver, will solve 99% of problems regarding finish repel over labels and decals.

.........

Les, question on the workable fixatif? I had Decal Connection make me some custom colored decals for all of my NFC rods. I currently have about 20 rods to put decals on over the winter, and other than the base coat of epoxy for under the decals, I'd like to make sure that I only need one coat over the decals themselves. Not because of added weight, but because I'll just be mixing batches to do two rods at a time. and I'm already going to have a bunch of wasted finish, and I don't want to have even more if I need to do two coats because of a fish eye.

So my question, finally right? lol The Krylon fixatif that you mentioned won't affect the ink in any way, will it? Don't want to have ink possibly run and mess up a decal.

Thanks for any thoughts you can share my friend.

Tom did an article on the krylon fixative maybe twenty years ago? More maybe? It is made to be used for this type of thing and will not dissolve ink or paint or decals. It readily accepts a top coat of varnish or epoxy or most anything else.

Thanks Mike. I appreciate the response. Definitely going to pick a can up.

Thanks again.

David,

Mike has your back on the fixative. You can probably find it at any Craft store (Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc.) or at an artist supply store (Dick Blick, or mom and pop art shops).

It goes on like spray varnishes and dries very fast. Move or cover your tools that have "faces" like calipers, scales, watches etc. to make sure the overspray does not coal them - it makes them look foggy otherwise. Best if applied with ample ventilation.

The Krylon can be drawn on with a paint pen or the like after it dries. I think this is what "Workable" means in the name. I draw over it with a pencil and/or colored markers on landscape plans all the time. It will prevent a marker from bleeding on paper, yielding a more crisp line.

Useful stuff.

Les, thanks for the response my friend. I'm definitely going to pick some up. Anything that can eliminate potential fish eyes in the finish over the decal, is going to be great. I had Decal Connection use their ink that's really shiny for some of the text in the decal, so I'm going to feel a lot better using the fixatif.

Thanks again !!

Hello All.

I have a couple of places you can look for answers.

Volume/Issue........Article.....................Author...................................Page.
12/1 Decal Tips & Tricks! Their Electric. By Tom Kirkman. 16
9/2 Decaling, The Art of. By Jimi Ellis. 22
12/1 Decals & Labels, They're Electric. By Bobby Feazel. 10
18/5 Decals For Your Custom Rod (From The Pearl Lable Makers). By Pat Barnard. 14
1/3 Color Preserver - Gudebrod 811 Product Test. 26
4/2 Color Preserver - The Strength Issue. 14
12/1 Color Preserver Shipments How To Heat Them. By Tom Kirkman. 28
17/3 Color Preserver, The "WHY" Of. By Ralph O'Quinn. 30
4/2 Color Preserver. By Tom Kirkman & Ralph O'Quinn. 10
17/2 Color Preserver-To Thin or Not To Thin? By Ralph O'Quinn. 30

Hope this is at least somewhat helpful.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Robert,

You are:

The librarian that quenches the thirst of all who quest for the Grail Rod.

The wizard conversing with tomes inscribed by the enchanted pens of mages.

You are always much more than "somewhat helpful" to me!

Thank you!

Thanks Les.

No Problem.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.