My buddy is looking for a 9 ft 6wt fly rod, I've neither built a fly rod or a multi piece rod. I've never held a fly rod before.

Happy to hear any advice for something like this, talk to me like I'm 10 years old and have no idea what I'm doing - cuz that's how I feel haha.

He's looking to spend $200 or so, but he is a die by the fly kinda guy, so I'm sure he'd be willing to bump it up if it's worth it. I have no idea what the cost for this kind of build looks like.

Blank recommendations?

Component recommendations?

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world

$200 total? Like for blank, components, shipping, tax etc?

That may be very hard to accomplish. Just the handle and grip alone can be upwards of $70 or more. Fly blanks tend to be a bit pricier than other types of rods. You could very well be upwards of $200 in just the blank, grip and handle without any guides, thread, trim pieces, butt cap etc.

I’ve built a few fly rods using RodGeeks C4 blanks (C4F904-4), Rainshadow Revelation (RevF662-2 and RevF109-2), NFC Classics (F904-2).

The RodGeeks C4 was easily the best and smoothest casting out of that bunch; I’d put it up against any $700-$800 factory rod honestly. It’s a great medium sized stream rod for trout that excels with dry flies and probably my favorite fly blank I’ve built on. The NFC and the RS 2wt fly rods are still very nice blanks though and extremely pleased with them. The NFC F904-2 is a better all purpose trout rod, a little less finesse than the RodGeeks but able to cast heavier dries and weighted nymphs better.

I think the first thing you should ask is what type of fishing he plans on doing with it. Larger stream trout, bass, all purpose etc.

As far as handles, I prefer a full wells cork handles, especially for anything over a 3wt. It just feels more comfortable to me and I’ve had others echo the same thought for those I’ve built for.

The reel seat is subjective. You can get as artistic or simplistic as you want. For a 6wt, you’re going to need something with a screw down reel nut rather than just a slip. I’m a big fan of the Batson Forecast RYFW reel seat and the REC brand reel seats/inserts. For lighter stuff, I’ve even used a JP Ross etched trout zen reel seats.

The guides are also a bit subjective. Some guys prefer using single foot, others traditional snake guides, and then there’s some who like using conventional guides with ceramic inserts. You don’t need to get fancy with the layout. For a 6wt, a light wire guide would be sufficient. Snake brand and CRB are decent. The CRBs have a slightly larger loop to them which isn’t a bad thing though. Just something to be aware of. I personally prefer to use snake guides for a more classic look on anything 4wt and heavier. I’ll use single foot fly guides for 2&3wts.

For an added custom or personalized touch, I also like to use a Japanese agate guide for the stripper guide to match the color of the thread of color scheme.

Set the first guide about 32” from the reel seat and space out based on a static guide test. But also make sure you have a guide at near the transition points between the separate pieces of rod to help ease the stress along the ferrules.There’s a great article from rodmaker magazine that really simplifies it.

[www.rodbuilding.org]



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 10/15/2024 05:46PM by Evan Cobb.

@Evan, thanks for the write up bro. I have no idea about fly components cost, I'll do some digging.

I also see fly seats U3 and A5 and xxx...

Can somebody walk me through a basic list of what I'll need or what I should follow up with the angler about if there's a difference somebody who just fishes but doesn't build would know? Like IDK if he knows U5 or 5e fly seats

Evan, I'll ask him his intended use, so far he said he wants 9ft 6wt Carbon fiber, Mod Fast, double wells.

I'd like to avoid a mudhole kit, but I'll look at them to get an idea what I should look for.

Unless anyone can say they know of a quality kit, but I see a lot if kits as build your own walmart rod or slightly higher quality.

I'll peek at Rodgeeks, he mentioned a mojo fly rod

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world

El, building a fly rod for about $200 is a challenge. A set of guides for a 9’ 6 wgt fly rod will normally contain 10 guides total plus a tip top. There are usually two ceramic guides (size 12 and 8) and eight running guides, single foot or double foot, the all the same size (I use size 2). The tip top can be either be standard or large size. Some like the larger size tip top to pass loop to loop line connections. The cost for a set of Snake Brand wire guides and tip top with two ceramic Sic guides cost about $35. You can certainly spend more or less for a set of guides. Reel seats are personal, and come in many different styles and models, some all aluminum, others with various types of inserts. I like up-locking reel seats with a hidden hood, two locking nuts, and a cork check that is used with a fighting butt. You can get a good reel seat for about $30 to $40 and can certainly spend more or less. You can a get good cork full wells grip for about $20 to $25, and a fighting butt for about $10. A carbon fiber full wells with fighting butt will be about $40. Make sure the insert size of the grip matches the hood size of the reel seat you get. The cost of thread, epoxy and disposables will be about $10. So adding up these costs you get about $115 for components and supplies. Doesn’t leave a lot left for the blank. However, the NFC FAF905-4 is on sale for $85, and the RodGeeks C4F906.4 is $106. Both are very nice blanks making it very difficult to find a better deal. You can certainly spend a lot more on blanks.
Hope this helps. If you have any question please feel free to ask.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2024 12:04PM by Norman Miller.

Evan,
Of course I will recommend a CTS Blank. But there are less expensive blanks - but IF he is a dedicated fly guy - he may want to bump-up the $$$ to get something he will use forever.
I have mentored mabny new fly rod builders. - in gret detail.
The most challenging is to get everything concentric.

IIf you are going to use Pre-made grip and fighting butt (if he wants one) I would recommend using REC Components. You can order the reel seat., fighting butt and grip that are all compatable with each other - solves a lot of issues.

Or - you MAY be planing to install cork rings - one by one and turning on a lathe - that is another atter that I can help you with.

Reach out if you want my help.

You may also need help spining the 4 pc blank.
Herb
U.S. CTS Rep



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2024 02:32PM by Herb Ladenheim.

@Norm - thanks my man! I'm sure I'll be checking in with you as I go :)

He said "Bass, open water, larger flies, intermediate line (semi sinking), throwing streamer flies for smallies." Between those blanks you mentioned, NFC FAF905-4 and SC4906.4, which would be more suitable?

How do either of them "perform"?

How does the quality compare?

You say get a "good reel seat" for $30-$40, but what makes a "good" reel seat? What makes a bad reel seat?

@Herb, I sent an email too. By "concentric" do you mean the guides?

Maybe I can find a grip/seat/butt set?

No turning cork for me, I struggle just to turn over in bed haha

Wouldn't I just spine each piece and line them up?

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world

Oops! That should’ve been NFC FAF906-4. I’ve built on both the NFC and RodGeeks (St Croix) blanks. Both are very nice. They are about the same weight and both have a fast to moderate fast action. The NFC blank only comes unsanded, so it does have resin ridges. This bothers some people but I don’t have a problem with it. The Rod Geeks blanks are sanded and you can get them in a few different colors or clear coated. Otherwise they both cast and handle fish very well. The NFC and RodGeeks blanks I have received have been quite straight with no noticeable flaws. Both are shipped from the factory with no middle man, and the wait time is approximately the same, which can be several weeks. So hard to recommend one over the other.
Reel seats in that price range are all nice. Just a matter of personal choice, as to whether you want inserts or not. Double locking nuts keep the reel locked in place. Since I like fighting butts, I want a reel seat that comes with a cork check. The only function of a fly rod reel seat is to hold the reel securely in place. Therefore, most reel seats will work, even DPS pipe type of spinning reel seats. However, they just don’t have the Pizazz that most fly fishermen want.
What Herb means by concentric, is getting the grip, fighting butt and reel seat to be perfectly centered on the blank and to each other. This requires some careful shimming and reaming.
Norm

Wait for NFC's next sale and the FAF906-4 is a good rod.

For the best videos on rod building, go to Proof Fly Fishing web site. You could also purchase a complete kit from Proof.

$200 may not quite be enough, but you will be close. It is hard to beat the quality and value of the Rod Geeks C4 fly blanks . The dark blue metal flake is a good color choice for no extra $. The Batson fly handle kits are about $40 for the handle and reel seat. So that leaves $50 for guides and tip. Regular stainless fly guides are inexpensive so you could splurge on a 12 and 10 Fuji KW stripper guides and a Fuji stainless tip. Then you’ll have misc expenses like thread, and epoxy but you’ll still be near $200 and have a great fly rod to show for it.

Anyway, as long as your labor is free, this works and I would accept the challenge.

Just build a spinning rod with odd placed grips and guides. Don't over think it or talk yourself out of it before you even start. No rocket science here.