One of my 725’s is built on the XO Skeleton. It tested with an IP of only 685. I shared that info with Dave at that time and he found that very weird too. My son even mentioned the split grip 725 seemed to have more power (backbone) than the 725 with the XO Skeleton. That was my 2nd rod to ever CCS test, so I’m confident it’s an operator error. Unfortunately, I’ve been building a lot of rods for son and FIL but have yet to fish them as much as I want. I’m hoping that changes this fall or early next year when I finally purchase a boat.

My son uses his 725 for bottom contact type fishing like Dave does. I got busy tonight and didn’t get a chance to CCS the 764. I’ll also call my father in law tomorrow to see what he’s been using his 764 for. I do know it’s now his favorite rod. He likes it better than the other two non C6O2 X-Ray’s. He still likes those X-Rays, but he’s a firm believer in the Carbon Air models now. I think the 725 has a faster tip than the 764 (based on CCS data)

A rod my son REALLY likes is the SJ-725 X-Ray. IP around 800. I think he favors it so much because it has a stronger backbone. Him only being 15, it’s probably a mental thing for him with that rod. That and it’s a very versatile rod. Not as sensitive as the C6O2’s.

The rod I built for my wife, who fishes with baby brush hogs a lot, is the SJ-736 X-Ray. She’s had it out twice and loves it. The 725 C602 is still my favorite blank and rod. I ordered a 3rd one during a sale a couple weeks ago.

I wish I had more time behind these rods, but I haven’t had the time since I starting building rods. Dave educated me on the 725 C6O2 blank.

El,

David's observations and experiences with the 725 and 736 mirror my own; no need to add a coda to his poetry. IME, they are SIMILAR blanks, and not the same. These two rods can do many things very well with lots of overlap in my fishing.

I suggest pick one, or both, and you will be happy! I own multiple copies of the 725 and 736. I built my first 725 as a caster, and my second as a spinner because I recognized the versatility of this model for multiple baits and techniques. The 725 is something special, though, IME.

I recently received an X-Ray C6O2 SJ764 blank and am building it now. This model has a larger butt than the 725 (no shaming intended) and is stiffer through the mid-section than the 725. Different taper. I'll share my CCS numbers once I get my rig fixed and improved (I noticed my base jig has a little flex in it which can yield lower IP numbers). I would say the 764 is very close in power to the 725 (as comparatively measured on my existing rig) with a higher AA. IMO, don' think of the 764 as a step down from the 725 if you are wanting to cover a wider range of power, lure, and line weights "below" the 725.

@David ooohhh okay gotcha, now I see what you're saying about how each of them bend and what that means for how their power is portrayed throughout the blanks. 736 eventually shuts off and without the XO 725 goes all the way back, yet still the 725 has a "faster" tip - or am I still thinking too hard and mixing myself up?

Looking at your results after adding the XO grips, it makes me think of when people boat flip a fish by placing their hand higher up the blank and leveraging closer to the butt guide. Usually this is said to be a big nono, as it pushes all the weight to that leverage point and risks putting too much strain on the top end of the blank. But, at least in the case of the c602 MB725, it can handle that quite well obviously.

Have you ever taken a rod to a football field and measured/compared any casts? I did this to compare an AliExpress spool I put in my Tatula CT, got the Salamandura SV spool, and it really put into perspective how far if a cast I'm actually throwing. When you're saying 60 ft max casts, that's basically a pitch right to a target right? That's only 20 yards, which is about half a full on cast on avg.

With those lighter weights you've thrown, and that you think it *could* throw a 1/16 Ned, do you think it would over power those lighter wire hooks and bender out on an angry smallie? Or does it fight lighter up front and heavier in the back so that it can play the light hook fight safely?

@Jeremy I appreciate you taking the time to share as well, I'm looking forward to your results.

Happy to hear you and the fam are on the "same boat" with fishing! Me and my wife used to fish a lot together, but we haven't really fished together since our oldest was born about 5 years ago. My youngest seems to enjoy it, 2.5 y/o, I'm hoping she keeps the enthusiasm for it as time goes on. One more girl in the way, so I got a 1 outta 3 shot of finding a fishing buddy.


@Les thanks for sharing bro. With those multiple copies of the 725 and 736 - what techniques do they share in common and what techniques set them apart from each other? Or is it less about the techniques and more that one shines in open water and the other in cover? I guess what about them overlaps and where do they diverge in real world application?

Also looking forward to your 764 results.

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world

El, yes, the way you;re thinking about the 736 compared to a 725 without the XO is what I was trying to describe. IPs are close, but the blanks behave differently.

As far as the 725's tip. It's fast. It it had a stiffer butt section, like the SJ 736, my guess is it would have an AA of around 78 for the bare blank. It has a really nice mid section. Earlier you asked how it sets the hook. It sets the hook very well. It's not a fish mover on the hook set. But it has that nice solid thud feeling to it.

As far as taking my rods out anywhere and trying to see how far I can cast with a certain rod? No, I've never really done anything like that. It's just not something I'm concerned with. Lost fish that hit at the end of a long cast, are the reason I limit my casts to the ranges I mentioned earlier. I'm only going to cast as far as I have confidence in being able to set the hook, with the rod I'm using

As far as 60' being a pitch? That's not a pitch to me, that's a cast. lol When I pitch for bass, the max I pitch is probably 35'. When pitching I'm doing what you said as far as pitching to a target. My goals are accuracy, a low bait trajectory, and a quiet entry of the bait into the water. If I try pitching anything much over that 35', I can't accomplish those goals.

As far as the 725 over powering or bending a light wire hook. I don't know. I was just saying that I think it could throw that light of a combination. But, I guess if you weren't careful fighting the fish, I guess you could bend out a hook. For me personally, I can't remember ever having a hook straighten out on a fish. The only time I've had a hook bend out, is when I'm freeing it from being hung up

If i haven't seen your well balanced and fair posts I'd think maybe you work for NFC, you got me sold bro, I'm going MB725.

I understand that hook set, works for me, I'm throwing braid so it makes up the difference with that little give.

I hear you on the long cast lost fish, but I'm also often relegated to the bank, and a long cast is what I need to get past 15 yards of shallow weeds to find them sometimes.

But maybe you're right, and in the yak I can dial it back a bit. I'm often casting parallel tight to the bank in the yak, and making long casts to avoid spooking bass.

Have you ever noticed a bass spook off because of a cast? I don't mean seeing you cast, I mean pitch black new moon midnight and cloudy and when you cast you see just enough to catch the ripple in the water as the bass scurries away to the depths. They heard that, I've also noticed fish spook after engaging the spool.

Gotcha on the hook bends, really goes to show how strong Big Game is, I've bent forged steel on 15# Big Game - wild!

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world

El Bolinger Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If i haven't seen your well balanced and fair
> posts I'd think maybe you work for NFC, you got me
> sold bro, I'm going MB725.
>
> I understand that hook set, works for me, I'm
> throwing braid so it makes up the difference with
> that little give.
>
> I hear you on the long cast lost fish, but I'm
> also often relegated to the bank, and a long cast
> is what I need to get past 15 yards of shallow
> weeds to find them sometimes.
>
> But maybe you're right, and in the yak I can dial
> it back a bit. I'm often casting parallel tight to
> the bank in the yak, and making long casts to
> avoid spooking bass.
>
> Have you ever noticed a bass spook off because of
> a cast? I don't mean seeing you cast, I mean pitch
> black new moon midnight and cloudy and when you
> cast you see just enough to catch the ripple in
> the water as the bass scurries away to the depths.
> They heard that, I've also noticed fish spook
> after engaging the spool.
>
> Gotcha on the hook bends, really goes to show how
> strong Big Game is, I've bent forged steel on 15#
> Big Game - wild!

Great choice on the 725 C6O2.

Jeremy Moore Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Great choice on the 725 C6O2.


You're a recent hire too huh? Can I get an application?

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world

El Bolinger Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jeremy Moore Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Great choice on the 725 C6O2.
>
>
> You're a recent hire too huh? Can I get an
> application?


lol. Nah.. I wish, maybe I’d get an employee discount. One of us should take one for the team and get a side job at NFC just for the employee discount. haha.

I am a big fan of the X-Rays and X-Ray C6O2’s. Once you “feel” how sensitive it is, you’ll understand. It’s hard to explain. I like other brands too, but it’s hard to stray from one of the pioneers of carbon rods (Gary Loomis). I’ll eventually pick up a true OG G Loomis rod.

El, again thank you for the kind words. And no, I don't work for NFC lol Honestly, if their prices were more in line with retail prices of the distributors for other manufacturers like Rainshadow, and those manufacturers had the wide selection to choose from that NFC has, I'd probably have just as many rods built on Rainshadow blanks, as I have on NFC blanks. But NFC just has so many blanks to choose from, and their prices are just so darn good for the performance the blanks, NFC is kind of a no brainer.

As far as the MB 725 C6O2 blank goes .... I know I have raved in past threads about a number of the rods I've built using various blanks like X rays, or RX 10's. And I meant every word I said when I shared my opinion of those rods. But this C6O2, at least the MB 725 because that's the only C6O2 blank I've built on, is crazy crazy good when it comes to sensitivity. As I said I think in this thread, I am certain the XO skeleton grip has something to do with the sensitivity of those rods, but even in just dragging the tip of the blank lightly over my floor, which are oak, I can feel a difference between them, and any other blank I've built on.

Like Jeremy said. The C6O2 725 is a great choice.

David Baylor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> El, again thank you for the kind words. And no, I
> don't work for NFC lol Honestly, if their prices
> were more in line with retail prices of the
> distributors for other manufacturers like
> Rainshadow, and those manufacturers had the wide
> selection to choose from that NFC has, I'd
> probably have just as many rods built on
> Rainshadow blanks, as I have on NFC blanks. But
> NFC just has so many blanks to choose from, and
> their prices are just so darn good for the
> performance the blanks, NFC is kind of a no
> brainer.
>
> As far as the MB 725 C6O2 blank goes .... I know I
> have raved in past threads about a number of the
> rods I've built using various blanks like X rays,
> or RX 10's. And I meant every word I said when I
> shared my opinion of those rods. But this C6O2, at
> least the MB 725 because that's the only C6O2
> blank I've built on, is crazy crazy good when it
> comes to sensitivity. As I said I think in this
> thread, I am certain the XO skeleton grip has
> something to do with the sensitivity of those
> rods, but even in just dragging the tip of the
> blank lightly over my floor, which are oak, I can
> feel a difference between them, and any other
> blank I've built on.
>
> Like Jeremy said. The C6O2 725 is a great choice.

I blame Dave for my NFC XO-Skeleton grip addiction. I absolutely love that grip (when on sale). It’s pretty much like The Tsuka 2. I haven’t tried the Tsuka though. Hard to beat the XO-Skeleton when it’s on sale.

I have not tried the XO-Skeleton grips yet. What is a good sale price on those? I think they are currently about $80. Is that the normal price?

If you are using the MB 725 blank and you want it to stay 7-2, are you trimming the blank or running it all the way through to the butt?

Does it make the rod more tip heavy if you do not run the blank all the way through to the butt?

Dean Veltman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have not tried the XO-Skeleton grips yet. What
> is a good sale price on those? I think they are
> currently about $80. Is that the normal price?
>
> If you are using the MB 725 blank and you want it
> to stay 7-2, are you trimming the blank or running
> it all the way through to the butt?
>
> Does it make the rod more tip heavy if you do not
> run the blank all the way through to the butt?


$80 is the normal sale price. Normal price is $150. The MB-725 C6O2 will fit all the way through the XO. You’ll be at 7’2”. It’s the perfect blank for it:

Okay, got my CCs rig adjusted "for confidence" and am ready to share. I will say always take CCS numbers with a mindset of "Within a Range of Reasonable Results." I won't claim lab results under controlled conditions, but I am willing to share in order to learn, grow and improve the craft.

My C6O2 rods (in IP power order):

SJ 703: IP = 350
AA = 74

SJ 703 (Extended 4-inches with a carbon tube) into a 743: IP = 380
AA = 78

MB 725: IP = 605
AA = 74/75

SJ 764: IP = 780
AA = 83

Bonus Rod:

MB 684 X-Ray: IP = 585
AA = 74

Yes, I was surprised by finding that the 764 has more power than the 725. How can this be? Well, for one thing, the 764 has a butt O.D. of over 0.620 and the 725 is around 0.490. Not so surprising, really. I felt this difference in the 764 vs the 725 the first time I flexed it. This does not mean the 725 is inferior in any way - it is merely an IP and taper difference.

As for the 725, it is the most bite-detecting rod I own right now. Bar none. I have not fished the 764 yet, and it is the first rod I had in my que to finish to check all this out for myself!. I absolutely love rods that are light, high modulus, with faster tips much of the time. I know the 725 is absolutely in my starting line up....and hoping the 764 is a clean-up hitter if I want a bit more power and AA. I'm excited, ya'll!

As David said, the 725, without XO grip, bends into the butt.....the 764 is quite stout and un-yielding in that same location. I don't get too hung up on listed rod power numbers. I tend to regard them as suggestions rather than stone tablets from Mt. Ararat; though I, too, have a beard and look fetching in robes with lightening flashing behind me....HA!

The 736 vs 725 and my CCS numbers:

SJ 736 X-Ray: IP = 680
AA = 80/81

SJ 725 C6O2: IP = 605
AA = 74/75

I know, I know already! My numbers for the 736 are low (others have found this blank in the IP 790 and AA 75 range!). I don't say they are wrong! Maybe it is the copy of the blank I have. Maybe I'm an imbecile. I can claim both situations at the same time! Nevertheless, I love both the 736 and 725 blanks. There is overlap and uniqueness in each of these models.

The 736 has a much lighter/softer tip. This is great for throwing lighter baits but not light baits (1/4 to 5/8 oz.). It may make a better spin blank now that I think of it. It is rated as a heavy power by NFC. Okay. It doesn't feel or measure like a heavy to me. Maybe it is because of the beautifully fast tip section; I'm a sucker for a fast taper. However, it has a very powerful low-gear. By that I mean junk in the trunk. By that I mean a blank that has a butt O.D. of .0620+ so when it gets down a street fight, this blank is up for it. The 736 can throw down....and also throw 5-inch weightless Senkos. What is not to like???!!!

The 725, as David has stated, bends deeper into the butt area without some reinforcement via an XO grip. With a butt O.D. in the 0.490 range, this blank has a more gradual taper to the tip. The 725 fishes heavier "out front" on the first half of the blank, IME. The back half is more flexy - just look at it in your CCS rig when you measure it. I can also throw about anything I want with this blank from 1/4 to 5/8 oz. What it does have in spaces may be in the C6O2 material's stiffness to weight ratio. I swear I can feel a fish thinking about my bait before it takes a taste. Hyperbole? Of course! It is the most bite-feeling blank I have fished.

Since I am in for a penny, I'll go for a pound...

El,

Have you tried fishing the edges or IN those weed you are throwing over? IME, I catch most of my larger bass, in a high-pressure urban fishery, within 10 feet of the bank or less! That's right! In the weeds and laydowns in 18 to 24 inches of water. From the bank. And if that weed line wraps around one of those "access points" for the general public to fish, all the better. Try it for 500 casts and see what happens.

I go in with 10" un-weighted worms in the summer with the 725. Subtle bites - they don't want to move far out of their hidey hole. Big fish. Bank land them thrashing like mad. In mid March to early April pre-spawn, I fish the emergent weeds in the same spots with my 703 and a weightless Yum Dinger or Salty Super Fluke. I throw out into the open water 10 to 30 feet in front of the weed line and fish all the way back to the weed line. Agonizingly slow retrieves sometimes for the tiniest taps and slow-motion swim offs with the bait. Big girl bass. That's why I extended my 703 to a 743....I wanted a little more feel and additional power. We'll see this March!

I've got my SJ 764 wrapped, under epoxy, and turning on my drier as I type. It is fall. Cool nights. Warm days. The fall bite is on my friends! My 725 can work the heck out of a top water, jig, senko, creature, or fluke. Same for the 736 if you want to know my truth. The 703 gave me my best pre-spawn results ever this past spring. From the bank. I'm gonna find a place for this 764, believe me!

For All the Young Dudes (David Bowie),

Les



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2024 07:02PM by Les Cline.

Les means MB-725 (C6O2) and not SJ-725 above. Typo that slipped by him

And Les. My SJ-736. When I tested it, I got 685 for my IP. Normally you see 715+.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/18/2024 10:51PM by Jeremy Moore.

@Les my man, where do you fish bro? You seem like fun to fish with

Damn bro 605 seems low for the c602 MB725
But your 736 numbers are low too

Either way, everybody's comments are comforting in my decision to grab the blank... I don't think I said that yet, I caved and got the blank. Stayed up til like 2am last night just going over guides, what did I have/ need/not need/ which is which/ I deleted them all and just got the blank. I'm pretty sure I have plenty

I respect your respect for what's set in stone and what isn’t

The 736 has a lighter tip?

Regardless, I'm now also more excited about my 736 too, thanks

Have I tried fishing beyond the weedline into the edges and nearer?

I lost a heart thumping stomach dropping drag screaming bass after a long cast with a spinnerbait. Finally got it through the outer grass into the thick of the mats, but the rod I was experimenting with at the time, alog with the line I was experimenting with (Big Game) were a mis match. The rod was either more moderate or lighter than I realized, I think the hook set was lacking, or maybe it was that the bass pulled far to the left and when I pulled to correct the line suddenly went slack.

A rare fight, likely a rare fish, and a sad story I will carry with me through the decades


I've also caught some chunks in those mats, and wrangled a few from the edges successfully.

The issue this season has been the water level, literally 4-5ft of dry land that used to be wet and at least a foot or two deep. The mats were extra bonkers

Les, what grip do you have on your 725? You fight with it in the thick weeds huh? Throwing braid?

You're right, it is fall... you're wrong, it's cold days and even colder nights haha

I'm trying merino wool socks for the first time, bought specifically for my numb toes when I'm kayaking. I'm hoping to squeeze in a few more night trips before the end of the season.

I really hope you get a chance to bag some pigs on that 764 this before the next NFC sale, I have the XrayMB764 and don't need another rod I'm sure, but your description already sounds about right to me.


***@EvEryBodY WhO Has Used the c602 MB725, would a split reel seal work for it, or is it too bendy?

I have a set of Amtak Ti Forged guides, double foot 8,6, rest single at 5.

I went with the Atlas Tip top with has a size 4.5 ring.

I do also have a set of Fuji Kw 8,6, rest Kt 4.5

which set you think makes most sense?

How you think the MB725 would be spiral wrapped?

Building rods in MA, Building the community around the world



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2024 12:36AM by El Bolinger.

Something I've mentioned in a prior thread discussing variances in CCS IP numbers, aside from differences due to each individuals testing procedure, is I think we'd be better to look at variances in percentages, versus actual numbers.

The actual numbers can make it appear that the variances are huge, when in fact when look at it from a percentage standpoint, the variances aren't that large.

Using Jeremy's SJ 736 numbers as an example. One of my SJ 736 rods has an IP of 720 grams. That's only a touch over 5% higher than his at 685 grams.

I'd find a 5% variance between the same model blank, more than acceptable. It's likely you wouldn't be able to tell much of a difference, if any, between two rods built on the same model blank, that have a 5% variance in IP..

Thanks, Jeremy, for the edit on the SJ to MB! You got my back!

Thanks, David, for your steady reasonableness of thinking CCS in terms of variable percentages - and not absolute values. Isn't this what Aleks of NFC said himself - rods that test within the ranges of their bend profiles pass for that model? There is a range of variability. (Variability doesn't freak me out because I am absolutely certain I have never eaten two apples that were exactly the same - and I still love apples!)

The difference between my 736 and Jeremy's 736 is 5 grams - or two pennies. That made me feel better. Thanks!

The 725 is a no-brainer, El. You'll see. Glad you got a copy!

I have a CF split grip on my MB725 C6O2. Grip length is 12" butt to back edge of reel seat. (Out of a kayak, this may be a bit long.) When I said the butt section of the 725 was bendy, I meant it 'relative to' the 764 that has a butt section similar to an iron pipe - lol! I don't feel the 725 bending under my hand/forearm when loaded up on a stubborn fish that has me doubled up in the weeds. My knees shake and bend a bit, though. I throw braid to leader frequently (FG) but have started finding that straight braid does not spook them much - especially in cover. I use a sharpie to stripe about 3 feet of my hi vis braid with 2-inch black dashes. Breaks up the solid color line. If my results hold up, I am gonna ditch the leader. Whatever is most productive, I'll keep doing.

I really want to follow my guru David's lead, and combo this blank with an XO grip - stiffen the butt, up the IP and AA a bit. That might be the real deal.

An MB725 spiral wrapped? Are you joking!? Don't do it! I want to be the first!

I have multiple spiral wrapped rods from an NFC SWB786 to a little St. Croix 3C69MLXF with all 4mm guides. I built a spiral MHX NMB783XF rod SPECIFICALLY for my local, high pressure, urban fishery at combat ranges: short line in tight quarters, heavy hooks, high torque situations where I win or lose in a moment around, under, and in between shallow water laydowns and smartweed colonies. From the bank. Nine-inch natural cork with palm swell rear grip. Curado 200XG and #20 braid. Short. Sweet. To the point. I pitch 5-inch Senkos, Sweet Beavers and Brush Hog creatures, or skirted jigs into the heaviest cover I dare to fish. The spiral wrap really fits this tactic. Just put your hook keeper on top of the blank so it does not catch the line if pitching baits with loops of slack line.

Spiral wraps have no noticeable effect on casting performance, IME. I huck Mag Drafts and S-Wavers way out there on my spiral SWB786. Smooth. Same with 1/8 to 1/4 oz. jigs in the tailwaters of Perry Lake, KS in Feb. with the 69MLXF....long casts to current eddies and underwater holding spots. Good to go, bro.

Hi guys,

I'm from Europe and mainly fish for zander (similar to walleye, but bigger) with jigs in deep water on Danube and some lakes. I've built almost all C6O2 and fished them, also had the luck to catch a bunch of fish with them.
I'll avoid blank numbers as NFC is not that precise from blank to blank, also, the intended purpose for each blank is different, so, a 1 to 1 comparison is not the best approach in my opinion.

C6O2:
1. MB 725-1 C6O2 can be fished in my waters from 5g up 21g roundhead jigs and a 4" shad like keitech easy shiner. In my opinion is one of the most sensitive NFC blanks when it comes to bottom contact and bite detection. This blank has a strange construction in the lower section, not that balanced, but has a good weight to power ratio, the tip is stout and the action is towards Ex-Fast.
2. SJ 764-1 C6O2 can be fished from 9g up to 28g roundhead jigs and a 5" shad like keitech easy shiner. It has a very clear feeling (powerful sharp vibration) when it hits the bottom, I would say it's the same as MB 725-1 C6O2 in its appropriate range. This blank is very balanced and has a flexible tip which goes very fast into it's backbone, very good for lure animation on the bottom.
3. SJ 703-1 C6O2 very versatile blank, not that different from original version. All rounder for finesse fishing.
X-Ray:
3. SJ 725-1 X-Ray, 14-36g jigs, more parabolic with a stouter tip, not as sensitive as C6O2.
4. MB 764-1 X-Ray, similar to SJ 764, a bit less sensitive than the Airs, great blank!
5. SJ 765-1 X-Ray, I believe is the most sensitive NFC I've fished even do the action it's quite strange, not a typical jigging action.
6. SJ 736-1 X-Ray, second iteration of this blank, was incredible. The one which weight about 62-64g.

Clearly C6O2 has something special, sensitivity is there all the way, very crisp and much faster action than X-Ray, except SJ 703.

Emilian,

Your reviews of the blanks we share in common are very accurate, IMO. I found myself nodding along with your descriptions.

C6O2:

MB 725
* The most sensitive blank I currently own for bottom contact baits and bite detection.
* Strange butt end construction with butt end smaller in O.D. than further up the blank. (Not a deal-breaker, just not what I am used to seeing.)
* Taper/IP is softer in the mid-section than the 764 (below), yet has a high AA tip. (Perhaps this is what makes the 725 so unique amongst all the rods I fish.)
SJ 764
* More IP than the 725 overall when measured on my CCS rig. More O.D. in the butt section with similar tip O.D.'s.
* Very sensitive like the 725. Because it is made of the same C6O2 material? This could be another classic in the making, IMO.
* Fast tip transfers more quickly into stiffer power/backbone than the 725. I like the difference. (Same material, different taper is what I suspect.)
SJ 703
* Versatile All Rounder for lighter baits and finesse applications. I extended an SJ 703 C6O2 by 4-inches to grab a bit more AA and IP as an experiment. It worked, I got a little more of both.
* I suspect the taper of the 703 mandrel may minimize the differences between the C6O2 and an X-Ray version. Subtle changes due to materials? I think this.
* I don't doubt there IS a difference in the materials; and that what the X-Ray can do the C6O2 can do better. I've not fished the X-Ray model of the SJ 703 to compare, honestly.

X-Ray:

SJ 736
* Another great blank design with a specific taper. I have to be hooked-up with an over-sized fish for the "Heavy" rating to kick in.
* Otherwise, it can fish like a medium to medium heavy on the front half. This is what makes it so versatile for me!
* Sensitive beyond its peers in its class. (I think due to it large O.D. butt and smaller O.D. tip. The difference in O.D. between these two points barks at me of "sensitivity."
* It is a "longer" rod, too, which ups sensitivity all things equal.
* Another All Rounder for me in the range of baits it fishes. Granted, spinning ranges are wider than casting ranges for me.

A great discussion on this topic in my book. I heard hints of differences in "The Big Picture," another aspect of the CCS, about how different tapers and blank designs affect a rod's behavior. The relationship between the butt, mid, and tip sections all show up in how that rod fishes. Rods can share CCS numbers and appear very similar, yet, fish differently. That's been my experience.

Emilian, your weight ranges and evaluations of the MB 725 C6O2 and the SJ 736 X ray match up with how I feel about those blanks.

I agree wholeheartedly with Les on his evaluations of the C6O2 MB 725. It is definitely a unique blank, that definitely has that "it" factor. Far and away my favorite rod for bottom contact baits. And I had a most excellent adventure one day using it throwing a 3/8 chatterbait. Had I not been fishing out of my brothers boat that day, I may have never found out that it may be more versatile than I initially thought it may be.

I also wholeheartedly agree with his assessment of the SJ 736 X ray blank. While sensitivity isn't on par with the MB 725 C6O2, I doubt there are many blanks that are, it has awesome sensitivity. Definitely a very versatile blank. Not what I would consider as a blank for real heavy cover, but otherwise, more than enough power for a variety of baits up to 5/8 oz or so.

I've been searching for the perfect drop shot rod, so I took advantage of the sale on C6O2 blanks, and ordered a DS 760 C6O2 blank. I've read great things about it on another site with a rod building forum, so I've got a feeling my search may be over for that perfect drop shot blank. Just a wait and see until next year kind of thing, as chances are the water here will be solid by the time I get the rod built.