Greenhorn here. Never built a rod, but gonna give it a go. Just purchased a FW 701-1(IM) and a FW 661-1(IM). What would be some user/newbie friendly split grips, reel seat and guides for this setup. Im throwing maribou jigs for trout in the Ozarks. Thanks in advance!

The new Fuji TCH selection doesn’t require installing a carbon insert sleeve (this takes a little care to be neat in the window area). They offer a shape and fitted parts that speak custom more to me than do the pure tubular offerings. The carbon wrapped foam core style grips ream much more easily than does cork. I’ll put a link to a vendor that has the system all on one page. There are plenty of viable options, and I’m sure other good ones will get posted.


[voodoorods.com]


I forgot to address guides so I’m editing. I highly recommend starting off building spinning rods by using angler’s resources’ KR GPS system. It’s fairly easy to master and helps develop this important skill of layout. They have an accompanying article that shows you how to check results using a straight edge such as a counter or table edge. I usually pop for the titanium/Torzite line, but for first builds the SS/Alconite line is far more than adequate for the life of the rods.

[anglersresource.net]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2024 02:13AM by Kendall Cikanek.

Kendall Cikanek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The new Fuji TCH selection doesn’t require
> installing a carbon insert sleeve (this takes a
> little care to be neat in the window area). They
> offer a shape and fitted parts that speak custom
> more to me than do the pure tubular offerings. The
> carbon wrapped foam core style grips ream much
> more easily than does cork. I’ll put a link to a
> vendor that has the system all on one page. There
> are plenty of viable options, and I’m sure other
> good ones will get posted.
>
>
> [voodoorods.com]-
> -hoods
>
>
> I forgot to address guides so I’m editing. I
> highly recommend starting off building spinning
> rods by using angler’s resources’ KR GPS
> system. It’s fairly easy to master and helps
> develop this important skill of layout. They have
> an accompanying article that shows you how to
> check results using a straight edge such as a
> counter or table edge. I usually pop for the
> titanium/Torzite line, but for first builds the
> SS/Alconite line is far more than adequate for the
> life of the rods.
>
> [anglersresource.net]
> tware/


Thanks for the detailed response. These links help out greatly!

Anglers Resource has a handle book in the downloads section.

It shows Fuji handle and reel seat options. But it doesn't show the latest Fuji TCH options that Kendal mentioned.

Even if you don't use the Fuji components it helps see what types of components to order.

[anglersresource.net]

Ray, thanks. The handle book is extremely helpful!


Ray Morrison Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Anglers Resource has a handle book in the
> downloads section.
>
> It shows Fuji handle and reel seat options. But
> it doesn't show the latest Fuji TCH options that
> Kendal mentioned.
>
> Even if you don't use the Fuji components it helps
> see what types of components to order.
>
> [anglersresource.net]

I’ll offer more experience/preferences/opinions for getting started. Here are a couple of great articles that help to explain the concept behind what’s probably now the standard, performance oriented approach to laying out spinning guide trains. The KR system I linked above is a slight evolution from the “New Guide Concept”, but the accompanying software and matching guides reconcile the differences for you between the two approaches. The information and techniques in the linked articles remain valid. For your blanks with probably any current, matching reel from a major maker, the software should give you close enough results from the reel to the choke or intercept point to trust. I still recommend you align the spool shaft with a straight edge to visually learn the principles for future builds. If you know the why and how behind, this you can branch off in the future and spot important anomalies.

Along with Fuji, I use components from SeaGuide (some awesome carbon reel seats), Batson/Alps, CFX, Justace, my own lathe, and other sources. It was helpful for me to start out primarily with Fuji, however. They often set the standards for diameters, guide heights, configurations, and layouts. Their components and systems are well integrated and stable. In other product lines I’ve found you have to learn a bit more about mixing and matching. That can actually be enjoyable and lead to interesting, more custom results. Sometimes Fuji is much slower (glacially) with introducing new materials and supporting developing trends than other makers, and other times they absolutely lead.

Different companies go down different paths and often one won’t have every component type that you prefer. For example, I like carbon sleeve/foam core and natural cork grips far better than the other freshwater options. Fuji focused on Winn grips for their premium component set for several years. Another company, which I don’t use anymore for anything, went the direction of the solid carbon shell, hollow grips in their premium offerings. I found that CFX grips fit the Fuji PTS seats and didn’t ever need to use the Winn (which some people do prefer). I tried the hard carbon on a build and now have a rod I spool with mono for the limited topwater season locally (again, other people prefer these). SeaGuide came out with the Alien HSC real seat line that I like better than the Fuji PTS/TVS seats. Figuring out which ones matched the PTS footprint allowed me to switch and still keep using the CFX grips. An understanding of the inside and outside diameters that the platforms use really helps down the road. Progressively learn as you build and buy a caliper.


[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.rodbuilding.org]

U got time to learn. Had a FW 741 ordered that just arrived and ordered it back in July.