When would a High frame guide be preferred over a standard guide height?

When having the line further away from the blank is advantageous. Examples would include the butt guide/s on a spinning rod which will prevent line slap. The stripping guide on a fly rod (minimal improvement).

It is almost always bad to have higher frame guides on most casting and conventional type rods since this increases the level arm effect of the guides and makes the rod want to twist/torque under load (and no, spine orientation cannot prevent this). The lower the guide height the better in most cases, although it means you may have to use a few more guides to prevent line rub under load. On trolling and boat rods, lower frame guides are not necessarily better, however. Because of the reel height and the tendency not to overload the rod with heavy guides, most of these do fine with higher framed guides.

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I use a reverse high frame guide as the butt guide on my slow pitch jigging rods as the SPJ reels have narrow, tall spools and a high frame guide does the best job of creating a straight line with as small of a guide as possible in lieu of using a much larger standard frame guide.

On a smaller scale, I use the Fuji RV6 guide on my bass and inshore casting rods for the same purpose.

Austin,

Do some study on the Fuji K-R Concept for the line ranges this system covers (basically #4 to #14 pound test mono or fluorocarbon and a variety of braided line sizes up to #30). Braided lines and micro guides (under size #6 ring) changed the game, and is part of the reason Fuji developed the K-R Concept. (The K-R is not a cure-all for all lines and all situations; sometimes an NGC build can be better....)

Key aspects of the K-R are high-frame and small ring guides.
Reduced weight. Reduced line slap. Increased efficiency....within a range of line sizes.

To directly answer your question, IMO, there are a couple of reasons a high frame guide might be preferable to a standard height guide:

1. Stiff lines (mono/fluoro #10 and above) create larger coils when pulled off a spinning rod on a cast (vis-a-vis braided lines). Larger line coils slap the rod blank, resist smoothing out, bunch up at the butt guide, and reduce cast efficiency. Pushing the "Coil Cone" further from the blank with high frame guides reduces friction by reducing line rub/slap/friction. Also, in the past, you could only get the height you wanted to match your reel spool angle with a larger, heavier ring size. Today, you can get the same height with a smaller, lighter ring. Same job....Less weight.
2. Using the right ring size and frame height of butt guide is very important for the rest of a guide train. If standard frame guides can manage line flow through the Reduction Train and to the tip guide group and out the tip top, then no issues at all.

High frame guides are not a cure-all nor fix for every fishing/casting situation. Like everything else, they work where they work. Knowing where that line is is the mastery part of rod-building.

Want to throw #30 mono/fluoro through a K-R, high frame, KL-H 25 butt guide? Try it! I suspect there are better ideas out there. But #30 braided line through a high frame KL-H 25 guide...sweet!

Thanks for all the information

Austin,
For spinning rods, I always use a high frame guide for the first guide.

I use a high frame guide to have the guide tall enough to prevent line slap on the casting of a lure or bait.

Irrespective of the size and placement of a standard frame rod, I can not prevent line slap during long casts, because the guide is not tall enough to prevent the line slap.

However, with an appropriate sized high frame guide the guide height precludes line slap during casting.

On conventional rods, a higher framed butt guide also gives a bit of clearance that can prevent or minimise line contact with long foregrips.