Over the past 9 months, I've built and fished a handful of different SPJ (slow pitch jigging) blanks. Reviews on these blanks were few and far between before I built them so hopefully this helps someone out.

The first one up is the Rainshadow REVSJ76XH-CW-CG. I built this blank as a jigging "rail rod" for a buddy's long range bluefin trip out of San Diego (with the Johnny Jigs crew).

The rod was overbuilt by SPJ standards with a 16mm OD cylindrical carbon fiber tube running from butt through the reel seat and the entire 10" foregrip for added structural rigidity. I used a size 16 Alps Aluminum trigger reel seat and added heat shrink on the foregrip as these rods sometimes get planted on the rail and "see-sawed" to get the fish in.

From a fishing standpoint, the rod performed very well on tuna into the triple digits. He landed 6 tuna on the rod up to 160lb. He did remark that for the fish over 100lbs, he would prefer a shorter, possibly more powerful rod.

Unexpectedly, this rod has also found a home around oil rigs out of Louisiana when targeting amberjack and large snapper (15lb+). In these situations, you really need a setup that can turn and move powerful fish quickly or you will constantly break off. The durability and power of this build work very well in this scenario even if it does weigh considerably more than more traditional SPJ setups. The jig weight-range for this blank is 250g-600g.

Next is the NFC Xray SLJ 694. Built in a traditional SPJ configuration with cork grips, a Fuji PULS reel seat and a locking carbon fiber hood cover, this rod looks and performs excellent. The guide train is a Fuji LC12M, KW8, KW6s, KB6s and KT6s.  While sold as a "power 4" SPJ blank, my experience with this blank is that it fishes about half a power down from its rating. The jig weight-range for this rod is 200-500g with the sweet spot probably around 250-350g. 

This rod has dropped deep for rockfish out of SD, pulled AJs off wrecks in FL and boated some really nice snapper in LA. It is a true workhorse and very durable. As you would expect with an NFC Xray blank, the rod is extremely sensitive as well. I can feel both ends of a 260g jig hit bottom seperately in ~350ft of water.

Stepping down in power, the NFC Xray SLJ 692 is exactly what I would expect after fishing the SLJ 694. Built using identical components to the SLJ 694, this rod fishes jigs well in the 100-300g range. Over the weekend I caught numerous 5-8lb blackfin tuna in 150' of water using a 160g jig on this rod. 

Last, but certainly not least, is the NFC Xray SLJ 640. Dubbed "tiny dancer," this rod is an absolute joy to fish. I built it using the same handle and seat assembly as the 694 and 692, but downsized the guides (Fuji RV6, KW5s, KB5s and KT5s). It works jigs well in the 30g-100g range.

I've boated up to 8lb blackfin on this rod and it does not disappoint. In hand, I thought it was too whippy to fish offshore, but it has hidden power deep in the blank that comes out when you get hooked up. Easily my favorite build thus far and I'm excited to try it for sacalait in the spring if/when the opportunity presents itself.

Please feel free to reach out if you have any specific questions. Thanks and hope this helps!

Don't know anything about the type of fishing you're describing, but those are some sweet looking rods Patrick.

Beautiful work !!!

Question concerning Jiggernaut and the aluminum reel seat. How far down is the blank flexing? I would think that the combination of aluminum seat and carbon fiber tube would make this portion of the blank rather stiff and inflexible. Unless, the blank is flexing within the carbon tube. If that’s the case, what did you use for arbors?

I’ve been waiting on a 2 piece travel blank, 5’ Blackhole CC Special that I ordered during Labor Day. I’m looking forward to the build, more than a little bothered by the lack of support I’ve received from the shipper.

I’d like to see the rest of those rods, the handles look very nice!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2024 07:09PM by John Turner.

The carbon fiber tube extends through the entire foregrip on Jiggernaut, and the blank stops flexing before the foregrip, around the butt guide.

I would NOT recommend this construction methodology on a lower powered SPJ blank (like the xray slj 694 for example) as it would likley result in blank failure where the blank entered the tube.

To adhere the blank to the carbon fiber tube, I used a series of drywall tape arbors.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/25/2024 09:07PM by Patrick Coco.

Very nice Patrick!

The 640 and 692 look like good candidates for a Black Sea Bass/Fluke rod. On my short list now…

Thank you for the info Patrick. I haven't gotten around to trying the whole SPJ thing, but I should.

Tell me a bit about reel choices and how matter they matter.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russell Brunt Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thank you for the info Patrick. I haven't gotten
> around to trying the whole SPJ thing, but I
> should.
>
> Tell me a bit about reel choices and how matter
> they matter.

Reel choice is very important. You want a reel that stays tight and compact to the blank, can pick up line in a hurry, and can bully a fish if needed.

Jigging specific reels like the Daiwa Saltiga LD35JH, Penn Fathom 10 and 15XNLD2, and Accurate Boss Valiant SPJ models (300, 500, 600, 800), and the Shimano Ocea Jigger are all excellent. They have narrow spools, high IPT, and great drags.

Another reel option are the oversized low-profile reels. Daiwa Lexa, Lexa TW and Prorex; Okuma Komodo, Shimano Tranx, etc... all work for SPJ applications where line capacity and drag allow. The level wind is also helpful for newcomers to not have to manage line lay.

The general philosophy of SPJ setups is to let the jig weight dictate your rod, and then let your depth (line capacity) and fish size (drag/stopping power) will dictate your reel.

Handsome rods, Patrick! I also notice that you have spiral-wrapped them! Excellent!

(As an off-topic discussion extender, any tips to share on your spiral layout?)

IMO, Slow Pitch is given short shrift for freshwater applications. Having done a lot of jigging for lake trout with 1 to 2 oz. jigs and spoons at 70-100 feet, this technique works on the fresh side, too. Same goes for Striper/Wiper and large, blue catfish (though the depths are more in the 20 to 40 ft. range). I just have not used a specific SPJ rod for it. Lately, I've been considering it more and more especially seeing your lighter power layouts.

I like what you said about letting the lure weight determine the rod, and the depth of water determine the reel.

Les Cline Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Handsome rods, Patrick! I also notice that you
> have spiral-wrapped them! Excellent!
>
> (As an off-topic discussion extender, any tips to
> share on your spiral layout?)

Appreciate the compliments.

As far as the spiral wrap layout, its really easy and requires no measurement tools.

I tape on the butt/1st guide, then rotate the blank a 1/4 turn (90 degrees), and tape on the 3rd guide. I rotate another 1/4 turn (90 + 90 = 180 degrees or "bottom" of the rod) and tape on the fifth guide. I then go back and eyeball the 2nd and 4th guides right in the middle of the 1st, 3rd and 5th guides, ensuring the 2nd and 4th are 1/4 turn off from each other.

I borrowed this alignment from a youtube on how to do spiral wraps and have 0 complaints with it. It is fast, simple and gets the job done. On SPJ rods, this is the preferred guide layout as tip wrap is common with the SPJ technique and spiral wrapping helps reduce that significantly.

Patrick, great explanation on the intricacies of SPJ!

I've yet even get hands on my blank, but my ideas for my build also follow your philosophy on this style. I've yet to even fish SPJ, but I've read everything I can find in preparation.

The biggest epiphany I've had was when describing SPJ and the action of the lure to my brother. Jigging mimics a baitfish that a fish would normally eat, we are enticing a fish to eat a tasty morsel. SPJ mimics a dying baitfish. We are using the more guttural instincts of a fish to pick off an easy meal.

Sure, we want to mimic something the fish would normally eat. But at the same time we're presenting a meal that is defenseless. The lure acts like a dying baitfish as it flutters to the bottom due to the way the jig is made. When the lure is picked up off the bottom, the action is still of a dying fish trying to swim up. The erratic movement, mimicking the dying baitfish triggers a primal reaction to attack. A fish that is not so hungry may possibly disregard a meal swimming by, as it might take an effort to catch it. An already half dead meal doesn't require effort and can be more enticing.

The rod is matched to the lure weight so it can properly load up and allow the jig to flutter coming off the bottom. The lure weight is also matched to the bottom water depth. The rod controls the lure. The reel is just a winch to bring the fish up. In a way, the rod dosen't contribute to bringing the fish up, other than providing a place to secure your winch (reel).



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/27/2024 03:03PM by John Turner.

John,

Isn't this a fun hobby?!

Off-Topic: For Lake Trout, dropping the jig to the bottom and then reeling straight up at a fairly rapid rate, don't stop, until the jig is about a forth of the way from the surface triggers strikes, too. Triggers the chasing instinct, IMO. (I also like to tip my jig or spoon with a piece of fish belly for scent - which seemed to make a difference at times and did not change the jig/spoon action significantly.) This is the reason a high gear-ratio reel is important for this technique on the freshwater side.

I've also found "banging the jig/spoon" right on the bottom works very well, too. Drop to bottom, clang it against the rocks or wallow in the mud rapidly for a couple seconds (kicking up silt), let settle for a few seconds, repeat.....then, reel up briskly like above. Bang! Caught lots of them this way.

Not sure how it relates to salt techniques....but it might be one to put in your kit and try sometime. Salt fish like to chase, too

Just some hot stove talk.

Definitely Les!

There are so many different techniques out there. My favorite is fixing a
back lash while my spinner bait is on the bottom. I've got a 50% success rate. The SPJ method is a supposed to be a finesse method, designed for overfished waters.

I think the key is just showing the fish something different if one technique isn't working.