When walking the thread up a large guide, are there any tips for keeping the thread even?

If I'm interpreting what you're asking, correctly ...... dressing the tip of the guide foot with a file, and reducing the angle leading up to the top of the foot, which also increases the length of the ramp, is the only way I've been able to find to keep the thread even. And even then, the fact that it's running up hill is going to make it so you have to pack the thread on the blank extra tight until it reaches the top of the foot.

The only thing is ........when dressing the rear foot on a double foot guide, you have to be careful that you don't take off so much material that it causes the legs to split at the tip of the foot.

I've started dressing the feet on all of my guides. One, to reduce the angle of the ramp at the tip, and two, it gives the ramp a little texture, which helps keep the thread in place a little better.

Grind a shallow taper on the end of the guide feet.

................

Thanks guys. I have always ground the feet of the guides down. Just hoping someone knew a trick. Thanks again!

Ed Lakso Wrote:
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> Just hoping someone knew a trick.

Ed,

On my wrappers the thread comes from the front and goes over the top of the blank.
Once the thread starts up the foot a bit (about half way) is where it starts to get a little uneven.
I will just use a fingernail (or burnishing tool) and push it straight.

I prep all of the guide feet to have essentially a razor edge at the end of all feet. That way, I am wrapping the guide. I do my trim wraps and as desired, I simply run up the guide foot with never slowing down. I keep a moderate angle on the thread and I find that nearly 0 thread packing is ever required. Also, by keeping a 20 degree angle or so - along with significant tension on the tread, that there is seldom any need to pack any guide wraps.

Ed,

Guide foot prep as described above is good advice - and I'll add another little trick or two I use below....

When I file the guide foot of larger guides, I also take some fine grit sand paper (I use 600 to 800 wet/dry paper) and "dull" the edges, bottom, and tip of the guide. It doesn't take much sanding, just enough to literally take the edge off. I've had my thread fray before when wrapping if the foot is like a knife edge. I also don't want a knife edge against my blank and underneath my thread and epoxy finish with regards to future flexing or movement.

The bottom of the guide foot should be smooth and not sharp just like the top of it, IMO. Filing a guide can leave what I call an "eagle's beak" on the tip - a sharp edge pointing/angling down and into the blank - not laying flat on top of it. This needs sanding and dulling, too, IMO.

My other little trick is to use my tag-end thread to help me transition from blank to guide foot. Here's how I do it:

* I start my thread wrap about 5 or 6 turns before the guide foot tip and keep hold of the tag end of the thread (tag is about 6-inches).
* With gentle maneuvering, I line the tag thread over the center of the guide foot and wrap over it while keeping tension with my hand on the tag. The tag thread helps take up some of the "transition" from moving horizontally to moving "up hill."
* I make wraps over the tag until I feel like the transition is complete (usually an additional 6 to 10 wraps). Then, I cut off the tag close and continue wrapping and packing the thread.
* I burnish the thread to flatten and even it out with a thread tool as I go along and as a final step.
* Of course, do some gentle packing of the thread as needed as I go along. (I do about 3 to 5 wraps, then pack. Repeat as needed.)
* Smaller guides (like KB's and KT's in micro sizes) may not need as much wrapping. I go with what I can handle and control; the least amount to do the job well.
* * I have not noticed that this makes a "bump" that is noticeable.

I have also recently tried NOT filing micro guides since the transition is quite small. I have been pleased with the results....especially using my tag-end trick if needed.

If I can get away with it and achieve good results, I'd rather not file off the "anti-corrosion" coating on the Fuji guides I use. Sometimes, though, a little shaping helps (and to be honest, I have never seen any rust under the wraps). I have thought about using an additional thread tag or two to help with the transition on larger guide feet. I have not tried this yet, but I have a great chance to try it in the near future.

Les,
I do keep a flat fine - arkansas stone on my bench when I am prepping guides. The last part of the process is to rub the underside of the guide foot on the stone to knock off any sharp edges or anything that is not flat. Normally it only takes 2-5 passes to clean up the underside of the guide foot after prepping the foot. It also works well to keep a relatively small diameter round file. A file with essentially the same curve of the blank at the future location of this guide's home.