John DeMartini Wrote:
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> Also with smaller gaps one can be creative and use
> shims, thread, sections of rod blanks or layers of
> epoxy.
>
> There are no tables or formulas that tells one
> what the transition point for arbors or tape
> should be, that decision is left to the experience
> and temperament of the builder.
>

You won’t need a flak jacket for me. The best way to fill gaps is to minimize their size through component selection. I agree with everything you said on otherwise filling them. My most preferred seat mount is to be close enough to span with a couple of fiberglass mesh tape laps. That’s a really strong bond where epoxy has to stay in place within the mesh. It’s light and should balance well between sensitivity and protecting the black at a high pressure point.

I agree that there isn’t a defined or functional transition point for going to an arbor. The more epoxy accumulates as a necessary part of a tape span, the heavier it’s going to get. The seat is a place where weight matters less than if it’s forward, but it’s still mass that is only detrimental. Even the “balance theory” builders can’t rationalize extra weight at the fulcrum. Reel companies have invested many millions into losing mass at this exact same spot. However, I’m not going to bond in and ream an arbor just to save doing an additional lap of drywall tape.

Why consider even using a product designed to be easily removed?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/04/2024 07:01PM by Lynn Behler.

I normally use Poly arbors and for the reel seats when applicable - they work very well.
But there are times when an arbor is needed and either the poly arbors don't work, don't fit or some other reason.
For those times when I go away from poly arbors I go to masking tape arbors.

(Note, when first starting building - I used fiberglass tape for a few arbors on some new builds. I just found that fiberglass tape and everything that went into it - was not for me.

So, I use 1 inch wide masking tape bands. I leave about 1/32 inch gaps between each band of masking tape arbor. Then, when I glue up the reel seat, I cover the masking tape arbor and also fill the narrow gap between the rows of the masking tape arbor.

Thus - each 1 inch wide masking tape arbor is encapsulated and essentially water and weather proof. In all the years, I have never had a masking tape arbor - built as described - fail.

Take care
REW

I prefer foam arbors, but have been using masking tape lately with no concerns. I HATE drywall mesh tape. I found it so cumbersome to use, and for a limited, if any, advantage over masking tape.

I use blue painters tape for marking where I want components and guides to go. I prefer that over marking with a pen, pencil, or the God forsaken China marker which does nothing but make a mess, IMO . It comes off very easy (I don't wrap it around the rod) and clean up is a breeze. These very attributes, however, are what would make it a terrible idea for use as an arbor. I mostly use masking tape. That said, there are times I prefer to use foam arbors. One example is an ultra light build I just finished. I used the Fuji SKSPSM reel seat and it came with a perfect fit foam arbor. All I had to do was cut to the proper length so I went with that in this case. Nothing says you have to use one way exclusively.

China marker on an unsanded blank -- Ugh.

As silly as this might all sound...

I've used cotton thread and wrapped it tight. It's a time consuming process but the whole thing is impregnated with head cement then I put the RodBond on .

For the RodBond I followed the "water break free" surface prep and attempted to not overload the whole thing with glue. Time will tell if this was a good idea or not.

Hobby builder. About 40 years of building between 1-5 rods every year. Mostly fiberglass drywall tape on all rods with a few graphite arbors on lighter rods. Used mostly 2-part slow cure epoxy and 2 part paste a few times. Zero failures. Still use a couple of my earliest rods regularly..

Rick Handrick Wrote:
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> I prefer foam arbors, but have been using masking
> tape lately with no concerns. I HATE drywall mesh
> tape. I found it so cumbersome to use, and for a
> limited, if any, advantage over masking tape.


I’ve been surprised by the number of comments negative to drywall tape on this thread. I thought it had become more pervasive in use. I don’t think I’ve ever literally had a drop of epoxy go where I didn’t intend it using drywall tape. That counts before I learned to super glue it down first. For me it’s just so simple and fast, and I’m far from being a builder seasoned by high volume work. I’m not sure if any part of a build is easier for me than this step. It’s interest what is difficult and easy to different builders. I find hot melt tip top installation a royal pain, and other builders don’t at all.

I use the green 3m tape it has a better glue on it .