I've seen a few posts on this topic and I do use a toothpick or fine tipped dental tool to apply finish in the tight areas (tunnel and backside of single foot guide with a couple locking wraps). My question is whether there are any tips for applying finish to micros while turning at speed? I've tried that a few times after hitting the super tight areas with toothpick and if I'm not really careful I end up with finish on the vertical part of guide. I typically use Fuji KB and KT's and I'm talking about your size 4 or 4.5's. On regular guides I am able to completely apply finish at speed (except tunnels) with nice clean edges and no issues. When doing that on the Fuji micros with the angle of the frame it is hard to get finish on the side toward rod tip. When I really try to make sure I get some on side toward rod tip many times I end up with finish on vertical part. If I catch it immediately easy enough to wipe off with a q-tip and some alcohol. But I've had a few occasions where didn't catch it until after finish cured and then had to dig out excess finish with a small pick.

Anyhow, is anyone applying finish to micros at speed and have any pointers on getting clean edges and not ending up with finish on the vertical part of guide?

Trim your brush at an angle.

Kevin Fiant Wrote:
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> I've seen a few posts on this topic and I do use a
> toothpick or fine tipped dental tool to apply
> finish in the tight areas (tunnel and backside of
> single foot guide with a couple locking wraps).
> My question is whether there are any tips for
> applying finish to micros while turning at speed?
> I've tried that a few times after hitting the
> super tight areas with toothpick and if I'm not
> really careful I end up with finish on the
> vertical part of guide.

I don’t apply to tunnels or tight areas “at speed”, as I use a different technique. I stop the rod with one side of the tunnels pointed towards where I have the best access. I apply to that area on every guide. I then put the other side of the tunnel openings in the best position for access and apply to any with gaps from the first application. Then, i put the rod “at speed” and finish applying to the entire guides, one by one.

Use " a toothpick or fine tipped dental tool" or bodkin to apply finish at speed. They hold less fnish than a brush and there will be less collecting on the guide leg.

Unless you are using color preserver, tunnels fill themselves by simply letting the epoxy soak through. On micros, I prefer to apply at slow speeds, or by turning by hand. A few runs and you should be able to find out what works best for you.

I apply finish at about 20 RPMs with a brush, and don’t initially worry about the back of the guide. When I have finish on all the guides, I stop the rotation with the guides pointing towards me. With a dissecting needle (a needle on a stick) or a bodkin, or tooth pick, I apply a very small drop of finish to the back of the wrap. This small drop is wicked into the tunnel and also coats the locking wrap threads on the backside of the guide. By stopping the rotation any excess epoxy will sag and this excess can be easily removed. Then rotation is resumed and the finish allowed to cure. Very easy to do and works great for me.
Norm

Try standing the rod up, take whatever tool you wish to use (needle, toothpick, brush, etc) apply the finish to the guide. This will allow the finish to seep under the guide tunnel. Keep the rod standing for a minute or so and then put the rod back onto your machine and apply the rest of the finish. Whatever method works best for you.

tmbain@sbcglobal.net
Benton, Ar
"NEVER GIVE UP"

I do pretty much what Norm does and it works well.

Thanks all for the feedback and suggestions. Will tweak my process because have found it is not fun to dig out cured finish from the guide leg and small opening in the leg of KB and KT's. Tried to speed things up a bit and paid the price. Again, thanks for the suggestions.