I have questions about standard graphite slip over type ferrules and when to wrap and epoxy them I see people wrapping and epoxying before installing them together I see people slipping them together wrapping and epoxying them what is the correct procedure to wrap and epoxy a ferrule?

Wrap prior to assembling them. Use fairly snug tension on the thread, perhaps just a bit more than you would for normal guide wrapping.

The only issue with assembling the ferrules and then wrapping, is that you could possibly start a split-out before you even get the ferrule wrapped. This is unlikely but I have seen it happen. So if you do wrap with the sections joined, be careful not to tightly seat them. Just a slip fit is enough.

Many modern ferrules do not require a reinforcement wrap. We ran a list of those that don't in a past issue of RodMaker. I tend to wrap them anyway just for my own peace of mind. You only need about a quarter to half inch of thread but make sure to get the wrap very close to the edge - within at least 1/16th inch, even a tad closer if you can.

I would finish the ferrule wrap at the same time I do the guide wraps. No need to do it prior. But before I did any static stress distribution work, I would have the ferrule wrapped.

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Thanks Tom!... that's a question I been wanting to post for some time now could not fined anything on past post's on how this should actually be done I am building a 10' two piece Crappie rod from Getbit for a Amish friend of mine who is graduating from a cane pole and not spending allot of money I know its not a top of the line blank that's why I thought thought about giving it a little insurance and doing it correctly that's all.

In the past there used to be a rule of thumb to wrap 1 1/2 of the diameter. I don't wrap that long. Also you might find that if you join the sections together before you wrap the ferrule that the female will compress on the male end and you will have difficulty pulling apart, been there done that.

I build 4 pc fly rods and always wrap the female ferrule. In order to center the ferrule on my wrapper, I join the two sections (not tightly) never had a problem separating them.

The "rule of thumb" of 1-1/2 x the ferrule diameter came from my book. But it was never really a rule of thumb. I came up with it as a safe (more than safe) length when the manufacturer did not provide a particular length for the reinforcement wrap. Sadly, most manufacturers don't even indicate if their multi-piece blanks require a reinforcement wrap at all.

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Modern ferrules are made quite well, to tight tolerances, and are quite strong. I think Tom's rule of thumb is a good guide. I always wrap my ferrules with the blank unassembled and with moderate tension on the thread. And leave maybe 1/8 inch of space between the thread and the butt end of the ferrule, and take the rod epoxy just a hair short of the butt end of the ferrule. The primary reason to wrap the female portion of the ferrule is to avoid micro fractures, which later could effect or loosen the nice snug fit of a well designed ferrule. Think about the pressure a fully bent rod's ferrule withstands.

It is probably a good insurance policy in case you dropped the rod section's ferrule on a hard surface.

Some say modern ferrules are made so well you could probably avoid wrapping them. I asked Gary Loomis about that once, a guy who knows a few things about carbon fiber, and his advice was wrap the ferrule for insurance and to avoid potential for micro fractures. So I have always heeded that advice. I know of no rod manufacturer today that does not wrap the female end of the ferrule. That should tell us something.

I have never had a ferrule fail in 45 years of fly fishing, whether an OEM rod or one I made, But all the all female ferrules were wrapped. Wrapping the ferrule is very simple wrap to make, and is akin to buying life insurance for your rod.

I am not willing to avoid a ferrule wrap unless a manufacturer says it is absolutely unnecessary. I'd hate to go through all the work on a 4 piece fly rod and have a ferrule fail because I did not take the 5 minutes to wrap it. Just not worth the risk.

Glenn,
I always wrap my rod joint with a wrap that is about 1 1/2 inches long.

Then, when it comes time to apply finish, I wrap the smaller end of the rod with a piece of wax paper before installing the smaller section.

By having the smaller section in the larger joint, there is no danger of getting finish inside the rod.

Also, by using a wax paper mount on the smaller side of the joint, one eliminates the off chance where a person might end up gluing the two sections together by getting finish in the joint.

The finish will not stick to the wax paper, and if there is a bit of finish on the wax paper that dries, one simply takes a razor blade and trims off any extra finish from areas where it should not be.

Best wishes.

I have these cheapo blanks (rods) where the male section is the top of the blank

All I do is wrap the female section the length of the male section so it gives it proper support

And thread tension is light so it doesn't get compressed

Done in OO size thread mostly, and done so it's the same colour as the blank.. so it gives the illusion that it's a one piece when attached

Different coloured blanks I've used white size A regular thread.. so it becomes translucent by not using CP