Hi All.

This is my first post, although I have been lurking and reading as a non-member for quite a while now.
I've made up a variety of flyrods over the years but am about to embark on a niche project and am pretty l

For years we've used 4lb nylon/ 8 lb braid on a small reel (Shimano 500) to pitch unweighted prawns on circle hooks with a flyrod to spotted grunter on the mud flats. (Spotted Grunts are our favorite flats fish in South Africa - spooky and fussy, a little permit-like). But I want to build a specific spinning setup for them. The softness of the flyrod allows for light line protection and length allows for distance on the cast despite no extra weight used.

Anyway, the setup is as follows:

9' 5wt flyrod blank. I'll be using the NFC F 905 - 4M with fuji reel seat components. The Shimano Soare 500 has two spools, one with 8lb braid and one with 4lb mono.

Considering the length of the rod, the light nature of the line, and that it will be alternated between braid and mono, are there any suggestions for the following:

1) KL or KL-H running guides
2) Size of first running guide ( I was thinking a 20, but part me feels like a 16)
3) Overall guide train makeup.

Many thanks in advance.

A 16 KLH should work fine with the line you mention. KLH 16-KLH8-KL5.5M. Put the rod specs into the "KR Guide Placement Software" on the Anglers Resource site in the left column (find it by clicking on the menu then on the software) for the reduction train recommended spacing. Set the running guides with the two line stress test.

I have an 8 1/2 foot 6 wt fly built as a spin and it works well for long casts, a little sloppy for short cast accuracy, but that's not an issue for your projected use. I built it for casting light jigs (~ 1/8 oz to bonefish) I think you are on the right track for what you're trying to do.

I agree with Micheal. With a 500 size reel using light braid or light mono, a size16 based KR reduction guide train will work very well. For runners, I normally use one or two KB guides, with the rest being KT guides. The runners are all the same size in the size of your choice, I personally like size 4.5 or 5 runners.
Norm

Fred,
Michael and Norman are veteran Gurus whom I and many others respect immensely, and I have learned a lot from them, especially Norman’s slightly modified Anglers Resource GPS for reduction guide placement = butt guide 19in from the spool face, choke guide 20 - 22in further out with the remaining reduction guide(s) positioned to form a bullseye line path. I put a “(s)” after “guide” as with such a long rod, you might consider using 4 reduction guides rather than 3 as per GPS; KL 16-H, KL 8-H, KL 6-M, KL 5.5 L. To be honest, I used that exact reduction train on an 8ft wimpy FG UL build but didn’t really notice any difference from a 3-guide reduction train. However, you are basically building a quite long UL so it may be something to consider. 2-line static load test for the runners as per usual. For your 9ft rod, expect to use at least 11 guides, possibly 12 and 13 may not be unusual.
One other thing to consider; as you, I prefer small reels = 100(0), possibly 750 for my UL trout rods. But the smaller the reel USUALLY means smaller diameter spools. Unless your Shimano 500 has an overly large diameter spool, consider using a 100(0) or larger to reduce the coil memory of the line, especially mono / fluoro; you may gain a noticeable amount of casting distance, particularly with light lures.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

As Mark said, I think I read something about 4 reduction guides on UL and extra long rods.

Also up size the runners to KT4.5 or 5

The correct position for the butt guide (no matter the reel you choose) should touch the top of the guide ring.

With long rods I like to push the butt guide and choke guide a little further out so that I don’t need a large number of running guides to get the progressive spacing I like. I build a lot of light 9’ rods for crappie fishing, but mostly use two piece light steelhead rods with a moderate fast action. They really cast light lures a very long way, but don’t feel as sloppy as fly rods. For a 9’ rod I normally use 11 guides (KL16H, KL8H, KL5.5M, 2 KBs, and 6 KTs), but can get away with 10. I will put the butt guide somewhere between 19 - 21” in front of the reel spool and the choke guide about 28 -30” in front of the butt guide. Stretching things out a little does not hurt performance at all. I have also use the KL16H, KL8H, KL6M and KL5.5L for the reduction train. It also works very well, but I didn’t notice any difference in casting distance. If you do use the four guide reduction train, just remember the KL5.5L is placed in the choke position.
Norm

I have never used a 4 guide reduction system. I even built a rod with a two guide reduction and it has worked just fine. No need to overthink this, just go with the Fuji software and it will work.

The Gurus have spoken!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Especially for an ultra light, the pac bay minima stainless guides work just fine.

A tall size 20, then sv down to 12 and on down to 8 with size 5.5 or 6 runners to the tip.

You can spend more money on guides, but you will never see any distance in casting, nor any difference in feel.

With the ultra light configuration you will not have any guide wear issues. If you wish you could use an alconite tip top if you wish, but it is not necessary.

Best wishes

I also use the minima guides on UL rods… keeps them UL!

Wow! Thank you all for the advice. It's way more than hoped for! I'm now off to digest it! I may be back with questions :D