Hello all - I am preparing to order components for (4) casting rods as follows:
- 6'-9" m blank for Jerkbait (flouro line only)
- 7'-2" ml blank for light crankbaits (flouro line only)
- 7'-6" mh blank for pitching/flipping (Possible braid or flouro use)
- 8'-0" mh blank for deep crankbaits (flouro line only)

Target Fish are Bass with possibility for an occasional Pike, Musky or Catfish but generally don't target those species.

Going to go with K-series guides and have read several articles and threads on here on the topic. It seems like some people go with RV6 stripper directly to KB's and KT's while others that use RV6 go with either a KW (5.5..?) or LRV (size..?) and then onto KB's KT's.

Here is my current plan. For the 6'-9" and 7'-2" rods was planning on using RV6 (want to test it out) and then go directly to KB's and KT's. For the 7'-6" and 8'-0" I was thinking of just using KW10 and KW5.5 then onto the KB's and KT's. My thinking is that the longer rods could have a bit higher stresses in the lower/mid section so two double foots would beef it up a bit. The KW's are a bit more economical also as I can get them with Alconite rings. Planning on using Alconite rings for all my KB's/KT's.

My questions:
1. For those that go directly from RV6 to KB's and KT's have you seen any issues?
2. Any noticeable casting difference when using the RV6 vs the KW10/KW5.5?
3. Any other pieces of advice before I place my material order to take advantage of some Memorial Day Weekend sales.

Have a great Memorial Day weekend and thanks to all those that serve/served our country.

Have you looked at the Fuji videos on the subject? It's all in there and they used stiff fluoro for the test. The 10 mm was originally selected because the RV6 wasn't out yet, they were looking for getting enough height off the blank for foregrips, line slap reduction and fingers, the RV6 is the same height off the blank as the 10 mm was.

@ Spencer are you referring to the Anglers Resource video here: [youtu.be] starting around 5:25 into video?

Still a little fuzzy about the RV6. I've got Angler's Resource current catalog and it seems to imply that you could jump right to KB's/KT's. The safer bet if using RV6 seems to be to use a KW5.5 and then onto the KB's/KT's.

Here's what I'm thinking:
6-9" jerkbait rod: RV6, KW5.5, 2 or 3 KB4.5's and then rest KT 4.5's
7'-2" crank bait rod: RV6, KW5.5, 2 or 3 KB4.5's and then rest KT 4.5's
7'-6" pitching rod: KW10, KW5.5, 2 or 3 KB5's and then rest KT 5's
8'-0" deep crank bait rod: KW10, KW5.5, 2 or 3 KB4.5's and then rest KT 4.5's

From past threads it seems like some builders replace the KW5.5 (double foot) with a KB 5.5 (single foot) and just curious if anyone had any issues using just the one double foot for Freshwater Bass applications? Realize this is splitting hairs but more than anything just curious if any of the builders using RV6 than KB's/KT's only have seen any issues after some usage?

It's your rods your thoughts are the right thoughts for you, I personally use smaller running guides for better performance. It was proven many years ago that 3 mm running guides on a pitching rod outperform 3.5 mm guides let alone your size, that said back to the first statement, your thoughts are the best thoughts for you, remember you don't have to have it built before you can test your thoughts in many situations. Taped up everything and test casting does wonders to your knowledge base.

Hello Kevin.

Here is an article on micro guides, there were a bunch of conversations on this subject in this forum, you just need to search all dates for "micro guides".

Vol/Issue...........Article............................................Author................................Page.
11/5 Guides, Micro, Misinformation and Myths. By Multi Contributors. 16


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

I’ve done it both ways, and it really doesn’t make a difference in casting distance. Fuji originally used the KW10 followed by a KW5.5, which are then followed by running guides of the same size with the first three runners being KBs, and the remaining runners being KTs. The RV6 then came along and only replaced the KW10, everything else remained the same. Some people didn’t like the look of an RV6 followed by a KW5.5, so they substituted a KB5.5 for the KW5.5, and it worked well, so it’s basically your choice. Both the KW10 and RV6 gives the right height off the blank for line slap free casts. The RV6 only comes in a titanium frame, so it is more expensive than a stainless KW10. If you don’t want to use all titanium guides, the Sic polished stainless KR guides are a good match for the titanium Sic RV guide. I also like smaller runners and normally use size 4.5 or 5.
Norm

I use the RV6 unless it is a large diameter blank (or budget build) as it looks funky to me. Then I will use KW 10,8, 8(6) to size 5 kb and kt runners.

I've only built one casting rod that I didn't use a regular old 3 double foot guide reduction train, and that was a jerkbait rod I built not all that long ago. I used a KW 8 and a KW 5.5, then a combination or KB and KTs in size 5 for the runners. I couldn't tell you if it cast any better than the normal KW 10, KW 8, KW 6, reduction train that I normally use. If it does, I certainly can't tell.

I use the 3 double foot guides for a couple of reasons. I could make it sound like I'm all smart n stuff, and say that because the added weight of that 1 more double foot guide is in a more powerful section of the blank, its' added weight doesn't affect performance as much as if it were closer to the tip. But while that's more than likely true, that's not one of the reasons I do it. I do it because it's what I'm used to seeing on casting rods.To me, it just looks right.

One other reason I do it ,is because the added height of the double foot guide carries the line higher further don't the rod blank, and I feel it saves me needing to add one, or possibly two extra guides. But mostly it's because it's a it just looks right kind of thing

I go RV6 to 2 or 3 KB's then KT's. Runners all the same size, usually 5's or 5.5's . Never had a problem with guides.

Note that the RV is supposed to go with the single leg towards the reel. I've screwed it up and have not noticed any problem, but it's supposed to go reverse of what we normally would do with a double foot guide.

I start with the KW7’s with all my baitcasters (I think I saw it on a Fuji guide placement site). Basically #7, #6, then runners of either all 4.5’s, 5’s, or 5.5’s. My first runner is a KB, sometimes even the next one, depending on the blank. The second guide (from the stripper) is either another KW, or a KB, again depending on the power of the blank I’m using. I’m not as accomplished rod builder as many on this site, but feel I’m a fairly well accomplished tournament fisherman and this setup has worked well for me.

Results I mentioned. file:///C:/Users/spoon/Documents/3.%20mm_3.5%20mm%20Micro%20guide%20testing%20surprising%20results..html

I usually go with a guide train like this on a casting rig for ML to H bass rods of 7 to 7'6" length:

(1) RV6 butt guide, sic. (I don't mind it being the only silver guide when all the others are black....looks spiffy to me.)
(2-3) KB runners, #4.5 or #5 ring alconite. (I drop down to 4.5's for use with straight mono, fluoro, or all braid. I prefer the 5's for passing leader knots.)
(6-8) KT runners, #4.5 or #5 ring alconite.
(1) LG Tip Top, #4.5 to # 5 ring alconite.

I do a Two-line static test to adjust and tweak guide placement.

1.) I have had no issues with this set up. Plenty strong. (No issues with KW set ups either)
2.) No noticeable differences in casting distance between KW vs RV.
3.) Try a Simple Spiral Wrap on one of your four builds (my suggestion).
3A.) Try out a couple different butt guide styles (ie. one build with KW's, and another build with an RV) and then you can compare.

All the amazing components available today make rod-building and experimenting fun and personally satisfying.

For example, I have a store-bought St. Croix 69MLXF rod I re-wrapped years ago with ALL #4, single-foot micro guides in a Simple Spiral. Not saying you should do this....a unique build I have enjoyed fishing, and it has held up great to several large pike that got to my jig before a walleye did. I love to throw a Super Fluke with this rod, backtroll a 3/8oz. roadrunner, or cast SR 7's and crankbait fish.

Glad you are getting the rod-building bug!