Like I said before I messed up on the grip being impatient and not paying enough attention... What can I save and what do I need to do I'd like to save the blank and reel seat if possible as they were of high quality.... Honestly with my new job I barely even have the time to finish this rod so if I tried finding someone to redo the grip and tie the eyes what should I expect price wise ? Thanks for any and all help I've bought some good stuff and stalked a few post from some of you all and y'all have been great people through and through!
Tight lines!

Here is a link to a picture of it
[photos.app.goo.gl]
And the bottom which I also feel like I messed up and want to re do
[photos.app.goo.gl]



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2023 03:32PM by colby witherow.

Looking at the photo I see a misalignment of the reel seat and the grip. Which item is off center the seat or the grip.

If it is the grip off center the reel seat can stay put and all you need to do is remove the grip and butt end and replace them.

If the reel seat is off center, Then I'm afraid you have to remove all the items below the fore grip.

From your descriptior the guides are not attached, if so it may be easier to strip off the entire grip and start over.

I know it is a lot of work and if you have the skills to do it yourself, you will save a lot money.

I am sure there are other ways to fix the problem but at this time I am at a loss to offer any other suggestions.

Have fun

I assume everything is glued it place, otherwise you would not be in such a panic.
Looks like you reamed the grip off center. I don’t think you can ream a reel seat that far off center. However, the rear grip tenon should have prevented that amount of off set. Did you cut the front tenon off of the rear grip?
If the reel seat is centered, then you can leave it place and remove the rear grip and fighting butt, and replace them from the rear. Just be sure to carefully ream the new grips so they are centered and just fit over the butt end of the blank. You will probably need to shim the rear grip a little to get a snug fit. You will also need to use winding checks with an ID that will fit over the butt end of blank. For this type of carbon fiber grip I like to use the American Tackle G2 winding checks rather than the the NFC EVA winding checks, which require quite a bit of reaming to get a proper fit. It looks like you did not ream the EVA winding check, used for the fighting butt, enough because it became enlarged when you tried to slide it into place.
When reaming a grip it is very important that you don’t tightly hold the grip in your hand while reaming. Doing so will almost guarantee the hole will be off center. You have to let the grip slip in your hand while reaming this light touch and slipping helps to keep the hole centered.
You may be able to salvage the grips, since they have polyurethane foam arbors which are easy to cut with a cork borer or a piece of brass tubing of the appropriate size. Once removed the grips can be re-arbored and re-reamed. However, that does require some experience and an attention to detail.
If you have any specific questions just ask.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/20/2023 08:58PM by Norman Miller.

You've already been given good advice so I'll just add a tip for future. Everyone is different, but the way *I* insure I stay centered when reaming is I start with small reamer and ream both ends of the grip. Now, you don't to ream from both ends when you start getting close to having the grip fit where you want it, just when you first start reaming. This will get you started center and then after that, just ream a bit and fit check. I also like to spin it around on a hand reamer just to make sure it stays true (round) all the way around the grip.

The split grip allows you to put a taut string line or straightedge down blank center from behind to well in front of the group and seat. This will inform how true either component is with the blank. Leave the one that is and remove the other without damaging the blank.

colby witherow Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Like I said before I messed up on the grip being
> impatient and not paying enough attention... What
> can I save and what do I need to do I'd like to
> save the blank and reel seat if possible as they
> were of high quality.... Honestly with my new job
> I barely even have the time to finish this rod so
> if I tried finding someone to redo the grip and
> tie the eyes what should I expect price wise ?
> Thanks for any and all help I've bought some good
> stuff and stalked a few post from some of you all
> and y'all have been great people through and
> through!
> Tight lines!
>
> Here is a link to a picture of it
> [photos.app.goo.gl]
> And the bottom which I also feel like I messed up
> and want to re do
> [photos.app.goo.gl]


I am assuming you are a new rod builder. i think you see at least one thing you might have done different, like putting some thought into what you are about to do when making the rod and think about it. Sorta like the old saying, measure twice and cut once. I think I would sacrifice the rear grip.

If it were me I think I would finish the rod and fish with it. Fish won't know the difference. Do better on the next one.

I really like Norm's idea (if I understand it correctly):

Use a fine round file to campher the edges of a brass tube that is slightly larger than the blank diameter. The goal is for the tube to fit between the grip and blank, and cut through the softer arbor material. Butt cap removed first. Push and twist the tube the length of the grip and core it out.

I used to be able to find thin-wall, brass tubes at a local hardware store.

Les - That’s correct brass tubing in various sizes are available in some hardware stores and hobby stores. From my old lab days, I have several sets of cork borers. A set is inexpensive and can be found on line.
[www.amazon.com]
Norm

Colby,

Take and use a file and sand paper and knock off the side of the grip that is sticking out on one side of the reel seat.

As a matter of fact, just continue to file the side that is a bit smaller and make the other side match.

Then, finish the rest of the rod and go fishing.

You will have a nice looking unique rod that will be just fine and will catch lots of fish for you.

Take care

Thank you, Norm, for the Amazon link as well as the confirmation about your boring/coring technique with brass tubes.

IMO, The grip and reel seat are just a part of the Total Rod System for the kind of fishing anyone does. How much does perfection matter? It is ultimately up to you.

My Grandma Scott
brought a paper wasp nest of wasp grubs to her fishing holes, wrapped in a cotton rag, to catch hundreds of crappie on a crude cane pole and sewing tread line in the 1930's and
40's.. "Waspers", as she said, caught fish. Those Waspers would still catch them today, and with the same techniques and rods (homemade cane poles) as Zelda used. No doubt.

Keep it all in perspective.

Carbon fiber grips can not be filed down. The CF walls on these grips are very thin, only about a millimeter thick. The best thing to do is to replace the grip. The amount of off set shown is not acceptable either aesthetically or functionally, and would certainly make the rod uncomfortable to fish. Why waste a perfectly good blank over something like this. Redo it and consider it a learning experience.
Norm

I can't imagine someone would see that misalignment and still leave the reel seat in place. If that is the case, couldn't you just blow out the foam arbor, build another, ream it on center, install it and go about your business?

I plan to remove the grip and re do the thing. What's the best way to go about removing the grip? Thank you all for all your help

If it is a cork grip, simply take a slip joint plier and grip the cork grip with the pliers, spin the grip and cause the cork to crumble. Then, apply heat to soften the epoxy and use a single edge razor blade, held vertically against the rod blank and scrape the softened adhesive off the blank. It should only take a few minutes.

If an Eva, or Foam grip, take a razor knife and run multiple cuts through the grip down to the blank. Then, use the pliers around the grip to tear the grip off the blank in pieces.
Then, use the heat and vertically held razor blade to remove the softened epoxy adhesive.

Again, maybe 10-15 minutes for a complete grip removal and blank restoration.

Note:
I do not mention = reusing the old grip. In my mind it is not worth the effort and at the end of the day, the grip is likely damaged a little to a lot. So, no need to take the chance. Cut off the grip, throw away the pieces and glue on a new grip and butt cap.

Note p.s.
If you have the right touch, and if you have a bench top belt sander with 60 grit paper on it, you can simply sand off the old grip. But ---- Danger is right around the corner. If you use a sander, stop after getting to within about .2 inches close to the blank. Then, use the razor blade scraper to finish the job without risking the blank.


Take care



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/29/2023 03:50PM by roger wilson.

It’s just a thin walled CF grip arbored with polyurethane foam. You can carefully cut the carbon fiber skin with something like a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, or even use a utility knife. You are just cutting about a millimeter thick CF skin, so you should not be in danger of cutting the blank. Then just peel away and remove the CF skin, a little heat may help but it’s really not necessary. The underlying polyurethane foam can be easily cut and/or scraped away with a utility knife. Clean up the best you can and reinstall the new grip. This time carefully ream it so the hole is centered. The new grip will cover everything up and you will never know you put a new grip on the rod. Just take your time and use common sense, it’s not that hard to do.
Norm

Appreciate everyone taking the time to reply! I'll update when I fix it but considering my work schedule who knows when that will be ????