I'm in the process of building my first rod which is a 7 foot Medium Light inshore rod from rod geeks. I'm looking to use fuji KL-H guides but don't quite understand the KR concept that goes along with it.

Mark, click on the Angler's Resource - Fuji link near the top of the sponsors column on the left side of this page. Within that link you'll find information about the philosophy behind the KR spinning rod guide train, as well as a link to the KR guide placement software.

The KR concept is an awesome set up for spinning rods, regardless of line type. The KR software is pretty self explanatory in use. Put in your numbers it will tell you the size of the guides you'll need for the reduction train, as well as where to place them in relationship to the reel and the other guides in the reduction train. Many will say you can tweak guide placement if need be, but IMO there is no need to deviate at all from the placement they provide. There numbers work more than quite well. They only thing about the guide recommendations is that in my and many other members of this site's opinion, they don't call out enough running guides.

It seems that most always go with at least 1 more running guide than they suggest, and I personally always go with at least 2 more than they suggest.

Use the KR software at their website (see left column) to locate the reduction guides and the 2 line stress test to locate the runners. It works very well.

Note that there are two softwares there and you want the KR, not the other one.

If you have not yet bought the guides I suggest KLH 20-KLH10-5.5M + the runners and tiptop of your choice. Going with the 20-10-5.5 instead of the 16-8-5,5 gives you a little more flexibility with respect to line pound test. If the software recommends the 16-8-5.5 then just increase the line pound test or reel size you enter until the software changes to 20-10-5.5 and use those dimensions for spacing. . I build all my spins with size 4 or 4.5 runners, but 5's are not too large either.

I don't even bother to test cast any more.

Mark - Here is an older thread you might want to read to get a better understanding of how the KR GPS works, with both it’s strong and weak points.
[www.rodbuilding.org]
Norm

Michael is dead nuts on about the guide sizes. I prefer the 20 over the 16 also. Go ahead and mount your grips and reel seat in the desired position. After it has set put the reel on it and take the spool off, turn it to where the shaft is at its farthest extent. Tie a string on the shaft of the reel and extend it to the choke point on the rod using the angle of the shaft to create a straight line. The line and the shaft need to have the same angle pointing to the choke point on the blank and tape the line to that choke point. Align the butt guide (20 KLh) to where the line goes right through the center guide ring, that is the position of the butt guide. Do the same with the next two guides with the 5.5M being behind the choke point (Rod tip is front and reel seat is back). If you can't get center alignment then anywhere from center to the top of the guide, but no more than the top. The butt guide and the next two guides will be aligned the same way the Fuji software is supposed to take you. The next running guides should start somewhere very close to the choke point and be spaced according to make a nice even bend in the blank and line when pressure is applied. All your spacing between guides should be graduated. For runners you can use down to 4mm ringed guides. If you use guides that small then go with a 4.5mm ringed tip top to help pass knots.

This link will bring you to a chart that can help with choosing the correct guides for your build.

[www.fujitackle.eu]

I guess your too busy to look at Fuji’s chart… What size line are you planing to use? Braid to leader?

The runners are KB and KT guides, not KL-L guides. Your guide train for a 7’ spinning rod will use a KL20H, KL10H, and a KL5.5M for the reduction train, followed by the running guides which are KB and KT guides in the size of your choice, I normally use either size 4.5 or 5. You will need one or two KB guides followed by four or five KT guides for a total of nine to ten guides total. The tip top will be either an LG or KG tip top depending on whether you want stainless steel or titanium guides. The tip top is the usually the same size as the runners. Use the KR GPS to get a tentative guide layout. I progressively space two reduction guides (KL10H and KL5.5 M) between the butt guide (KL20H) and the choke guide (KB), and then progressively space the remaining running guides between the choke guide and the tip top. Don’t be afraid to move the choke guide and/or butt guide in or out to obtain a nice progressive spacing. You can then do a two line static test to fine tune the spacing. It’s not that difficult to do. There’s is quite a bit of flexibility in setting up a well performing guide train. If you have any questions just ask.
Norm

I appreciate the help, I think I have the basics down now and will plan on experimenting with the two line static test once I get the guides in. I'm planning to put a Diawa BG 2500 with 15lb braid and no leader on this rod as well.

I always use a leader with braid for a number of reasons. 1) A mono or fluorocarbon leader is more abrasion resistant than braid. 2) It allows for a spool of braid to last longer, because you cut back on the the leader and not the braid when re-tying or changing lures. 3) The leader acts a shock absorber. 4) A leader is a must for working top water lures. 5) It prevents the line from catching a treble hook when casting or retrieving. 6) it allows for reliable line to lure knots to be tied without slipping. 7) It allows for a clear line to be tied to the lure for less visibility.
I always use an FG knot to attach the leader to braid. It is the thinnest and strongest leader to braid knot I’ve ever used. It passes easily through the guides without a hint of a knot tic.
Norm