Before I purchase anything I want to run it by everyone I am mixing my flex Coat on aluminum foil. If I purchase an Epoxy Mixing System ? Will this mix it better? Are they worth the money?

Is say it depends on your output and purpose of the build. Building for clients and making money, it'll keep your hands free for 2 minutes and produce a pretty clean mix. Just building for yourself, I'd put 40 bucks into another blank or splurge on a set of titanium guides for a Light or medium light build.

Building rods in MA, daydreaming of fishing in CA

I imagine you're going to get a 50/50 mix of opinions. I build primarily for myself with a few friends and family sprinkled in, and the occasional build or repair for strangers (through my buddy's bait shop). I don't see the value in the mixers, but I don't have any issues with bubbles, or anything that could be caused by a poor mix. And, FTR, I do the same as you. I mix the epoxy and then poor it onto tinfoil.

I think most mix in a mixing cup and then pour into unto tin foil or into a tin cup expressly made for the purpose of spreading out the epoxy and eliminating bubbles.

Do what David suggested.

...........

Sam,
Inherently, people are always trying to build a better mousetrap; I am certainly guilty of such. But when it comes to mixing thread epoxy, JUST USE COMMON SENSE = mix thoroughly and you will be fine! Early on, I contemplated purchasing a typical “rod-n-cup” mixing system but never did and glad I refrained = ultimately unnecessary. Mix slowly and completely to minimize bubbles and any trouble bubbles later within the finish will easily pop with gentle heat. Epoxy finish is as easy or frustrating as one makes it. Obviously, practice-makes-perfect.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I use a motorized mixer, Gen4 epoxy, and apply directly from the cup while it’s still rotating in the mixer. Bubbles are a complete non issue for me - on the very rare occasion I do get one on a rod, it releases from the Gen4 in a few seconds (with no heat applied). The best part of this system is how incredibly consistent my results are. Also, my carpal tunnel likes that I’m not mixing by hand !

Hey there is no doubt that we could make an epoxy mixer and sell a lot of them, but we don't like them. We mix by hand and recommend it. Think of it as signing off on it being completely mixed.

Here is how we do it:
[www.youtube.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Thank you. I read where people concentrate on purchasing an expensive rod wrapper. There is so much to find out about the things like thread tension , guide placing, and applying epoxy..There is an unbelievable amount of skills used in rod building. Building my rod wrapper was easy compared to applying epoxy. I would not be able to get going in my hobby rod building.

Applying epoxy is very easy. The tendency so many builders have is to do too much. You don't have to brush, manipulate or move it around and try to get it level - it will do that on its own if you'll let it. Check the epoxy in your mixing cup - absolutely level and you didn't have to do anything for that to happen.

.............

As far as applying, you can use a small brush or I make applicators from that clear plastic that so many things get packed in. It's flexible and thin and easy to cut. I cut strips in several widths to match the wrap of the guides, I apply a bit of epoxy and then lightly touch the leveler to the wrap, and then pull away, and I get a perfectly level coat within seconds.

I rarely use sealer over my thread, so after I go down all the guides once, I usually go back and add an extra drop and do it a 2nd time to wet it out well. Wipe them off or throw them away if desired.

It's so easy with the plastic strip method, but I'm sure others can use different sized brushes to do the same thing.

Tom is exactly right. My results improved 100 fold when I put his advice on applying finish, into practice.

As far as what Tony said about going back a second time, I assume he is going back over the tunnels along the side of the guide foot. I personally use a toothpick and hit those with some drops of finish before I do anything else. It gives the finish a chance to soak in while I'm dabbing up the other guides.

And I know a lot of guys advocate using heat to help any bubbles release, but for me personally, anytime I've applied heat, it cause more problems than what I had before applying the heat. I should say that was prior to taking the advice that Tom offered.

I like to do three thin coats vs. putting it on thick and heavy in one or two coats. And I only make fly rods, so many of the wraps are small. I like it especially thin on the first coat to get good penetration and coverage. I even like to thin my mix a bit with a few drops of DNA or, yes it works well, IPA (not the beer, smart aleck!). I use a brush, but some are quite adept with a metal spatula like device.

I'm a fan of Gen 4.

If you have lots of wraps, or are slow and methodical, or a newbie, and your epoxy is getting too thick, be patient and mix another batch. Trying to apply epoxy that is setting up and is too thick is a bad move.

If you don't mind venting you room well, U40 PermaGloss goes on thin and takes a number of coats, but has many fans. Just be sure to mitigate the fumes/odors.

Daryl Ferguson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I imagine you're going to get a 50/50 mix of
> opinions. I build primarily for myself with a few
> friends and family sprinkled in, and the
> occasional build or repair for strangers (through
> my buddy's bait shop). I don't see the value in
> the mixers, but I don't have any issues with
> bubbles, or anything that could be caused by a
> poor mix. And, FTR, I do the same as you. I mix
> the epoxy and then poor it onto tinfoil.

Sorry Daryl...I don't believe you. I bet you don't own any tin foil...or tin cans. :-)

If you have the money and make enough rods to warrant the investment, buy a mixer. But I see it as more of a luxury than a necessity.

I have never had any issue mixing my epoxy in a plastic mixing cup, regardless of what top brand I use, and I would rather spend the money instead on rod components or to ensure I have sufficient basic tools such as a quality wrapping station, rod dryer, brushes, syringes, tin cups rather than using foil (just easier), torch bottle or heat gun, etc. But I only build a few rods per year for my personal use.

Ernie Blum Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Daryl Ferguson Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > I imagine you're going to get a 50/50 mix of
> > opinions. I build primarily for myself with a
> few
> > friends and family sprinkled in, and the
> > occasional build or repair for strangers
> (through
> > my buddy's bait shop). I don't see the value in
> > the mixers, but I don't have any issues with
> > bubbles, or anything that could be caused by a
> > poor mix. And, FTR, I do the same as you. I mix
> > the epoxy and then poor it onto tinfoil.
>
> Sorry Daryl...I don't believe you. I bet you
> don't own any tin foil...or tin cans. :-)

Yeah, probably not. Darn colloquialisms… FTR, everything is Coke around here too, regardless of brand. Lol



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2023 08:01PM by Daryl Ferguson.

Ernie,
Interesting:
I was born and raised in Montana.
There, when getting a bottle or can of carbonated beverage, everything was referred to "pop" i.e. bottle of pop, can of pop etc.

However after living the bulk of my adult live in Minneapolis, MN - the midwest - all of the same carbonated beverages are referred to as "soda".
That is bottle of "soda"- can of "soda".

Different folks, different strokes.

The David Taylor Technique. You have to clean that mixing ball every time. I like to just toss everything that the mixed epoxy touches afterward.

For the last 5 or more years I have used a mixer and applied direct from the mixing cup. It does not use a ball to stir, but rather a roller bearing with a small stem attached to it to grab it. I mix everything for 5 minutes, turn off grab the stirring roller and let it drip a few drops to remove excess, then wipe with a paper towell and set on shelf for the next application

I wrote the article that launched the "mechanical epoxy mixer." Prior to that article these things didn't exist. Afterwards many rod builders and a host of manufacturers began making and offering them. They are very worthwhile and produce an absolute bubble free mix.

Cleaning the mixing ball isn't at all hard. Wipe it off with a paper towel wetted with alcohol.

................