I see this statement a lot, but I would like a little clarification on it.

When you say 21 to 22 inches from the reel seat, at what point of the reel seat are you measuring from?
Do you mean the front, the very end of the threads?
Do you mean the back side were the reel seat ends and the rod handle begins?
Do you mean from the front of the pocket were the mounting brace of the actual reel will be once the reel is mounted and secure in place?

I apologize for what may seem like a foolish question, but depending on where you start your measuring point, the first guide location can very a great deal.

On my first rods, I used a spacing guide to layout the general spacing and then adjusted the spacing based on the static guide and rod flex. My first guide on both rods is no where near the suggested/recommend 21-22 inches from the reel seat no matter what starting point I use. I also tend to you metric versus standard on my measuring. Feel as if metric is more precise.

Thank You

When measuring for the first (stripper) guide on a spinning rod, extend the spool to it's highest point and measure from the lip of the spool to the top of the ring. Failure to consistently measure with the spool extended can result in numerous re-measures, as I can attest!! Took me a couple years to figure out why my measurements were off!

For a casting guide, I measure from the level-wind bar, if there is one, otherwise from the front edge of the reel face.

FYI, 21" - 22" is farther out than I will typically go. But then again, I generally don't do extremely long or heavy rods, like Surf Rods, Salmon Bank Plunkers or Carp Casters - I assume those would need a greater distance.

Rich

The way I do it for a spinning reel is from the front of the spool shaft when extended about half way. Depending on the reel size and butt guide height, this distance will be about 19” to 22” for most freshwater reels. The larger the reel the further out you push the butt guide of a given size.
For a casting rod I measure from the front of the the reel out to about 19 to 21” for a low profile casting reels. The distance can vary in or out a little without making any difference in performance. I normally use a size 10 double foot guide or a RV6 as the butt guide. For a high profile casting reel I might use a higher frame butt guide to give a better line path.

Norm

Other than the stripping guide on fly rods, where the reel plays no role in casting, the butt guide on spinning and casting rods is going to vary based on reel size/spool diameter and line size and type.

.............

Tony Vieson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I see this statement a lot, but I would like a
> little clarification on it.
>
> When you say 21 to 22 inches from the reel seat,
> at what point of the reel seat are you measuring
> from?
> Do you mean the front, the very end of the
> threads?
> Do you mean the back side were the reel seat ends
> and the rod handle begins?
> Do you mean from the front of the pocket were the
> mounting brace of the actual reel will be once the
> reel is mounted and secure in place?
>
> I apologize for what may seem like a foolish
> question, but depending on where you start your
> measuring point, the first guide location can very
> a great deal.
>
> On my first rods, I used a spacing guide to layout
> the general spacing and then adjusted the spacing
> based on the static guide and rod flex. My first
> guide on both rods is no where near the
> suggested/recommend 21-22 inches from the reel
> seat no matter what starting point I use. I also
> tend to you metric versus standard on my
> measuring. Feel as if metric is more precise.
>
> Thank You

Spin rod?

Once the tip is glued on I simply measure a third of the distance from the centre of the reel seat to the tip for an approximate location for the butt guide

Then the actual position of the butt guide is determined by test casting.

To have a recommended or a suggested one set measurement for the first guide is ridiculous for all lengths of rods.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/10/2023 12:43AM by Josh Bryan.

Tony,

Norman Miller has your back.

This is another good topic for me as new builder on something I wasn't 100% clear on. This thread has done a good job of answering. @Tony, I'm with you on using metric for guide layout and other layout/spacing chores. Much easier to me not having to mess with fractional measurements. The ~$10 investment in a metric/English tape measure was worth it.

Not being a smarty pants here, but if you're placing a guide 5.5 centimeters from another guide, aren't you still dealing with a fraction?

I realize it's in increments of 10, and that makes it easier. But you're still working with a fraction.

David Baylor Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Not being a smarty pants here, but if you're
> placing a guide 5.5 centimeters from another
> guide, aren't you still dealing with a fraction?
>
> I realize it's in increments of 10, and that makes
> it easier. But you're still working with a
> fraction.

Yea, you are right. Using cm the smallest I go is 0.5 but still would rather do that than fractional inches. No need for 1/4, , 1/8, 1/16th etc... :)

The metric system seems like it was made for spacing guides, It really does simplify the process. If you haven’t tried it, give it a go. A decimal system is much easier to use than a fraction based system. You are basically working with whole numbers. For example, 5.5 cm is 55 mm.
Norm

I heartily agree with Norm, and you should be able to find a metric/fractional tape measure for very little. So you have the best of both worlds. I extend my tape measure on my bench, lock it, and tape it down in a couple of places with masking tape. Works great.

Oh oh say can you see ......... by the dawn's early light.

What so proudly we haled, at the twilight's last gleaming ..........

Sorry guys. I just had to LOL <wink>

Thanks for all the feed back. I used a 2 sided sewing measuring tape. Inches on one side and metric on the other. Taped it to my work station. It's convenient and for me at least, faster to use metric than to us standard. Depending on who you ask or position on the subject. Getting guides that specifically accurate maybe over kill, but from my point of view. That's why we build custom rods versus buying prefab.

It's not about turning out rods as quickly as possible, it about the quality and art. It also helps when your trying to match up components, because not everybody has access to fully equipped fabrication shops to R&D and make every piece that will end up on your rod. As much as I wish I did.