My personal opinion is that this is one of the subjects that builders tend to overthink, and overdo. I simply scuff the surface of the guide feet with 150 sandpaper so the thread will get a grip and climb the foot. With KB/KT4's and similar guides you can hardly see them on the rod, so how important is it to change the profile of the guide foot? I'd rather not disturb the surface finish any more than necessary to allow a good wrap.

The sharpening/grinding stone from Harbor Freight works pretty darned well for a manual device.

[www.harborfreight.com]

I remember a bunch of rods I made 25 years ago for my Son and me for our trips down to San Fillipi. I remember the heavy FUJI Chrome Hardaloy guides I put on most of those rods. Can't remember the nomenclature of them, but they WERE stiff. I didn't shape/thin the feet and because of that, the feet resisted bending when the rod was flexed and of course the resultant finish cracks! Use common sense. I use a 1" Craftsman belt sander that I have had for eons and I have on it a very fine grit that is very worn, but it shapes the guide feet very fast!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2023 05:05PM by Kerry Hansen.

I use a Dremel with the pencil wand attachment and a drum sander You have much more control with the pencil.

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Dremel with diamond is my choice. I have a belt sander, but I use mostly small guides and the dremel is much easier for me. The small 1” diamond wheel from harbor freight is a dream doing recoil titanium snake, casting and spinning guides. The small 1” wheel is easy to control with virtually no burrs. I use mostly silk thread, so proper grinding is critical

As with everything we do making rods, it’s a personal preference.

Mike

I find a worksharp is easier to use and produces better results than a file or a dremel

The Dremel is a very poor tool for guide prep. Much easier and more efficient ways to do it.

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