Good morning all.

I went to finish a rod yesterday and found my epoxy hardener jelling up. I could not get an accurate amount to flow. I thought about heating it up, but i am not sure if that would be a good idea. I am tired of having this issue and then having to go get a rod building company to send another bottle that takes days to get. So my question is what do you all use for epoxy and can I get it at a local box store,(such as Menards, Home Depot)? If you have brand names It would be appreciated...thank you.

The gel type Kardol epoxy is good. Probably have better luck finding at a marine hardware/boat building place.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Russel, I have never used a gel type epoxy for guide finish. How would you thin it down as to be able to apply with a small brush?

You didn’t say how old the finish epoxy was, but epoxy typically has a shelf life of around a year. As far as brands, I use ProKote and Flex Coat Original High Build and I only keep small quantities on hand (24 cc preloaded syringes). I know it’s cheaper to buy larger quantities, but I like the convenience of the preloaded stuff and still get at least two rods, possibly three out them. If I’m worried I may not have enough, I buy more when I order the components for the rod build.

One other thought. My wife uses epoxy to do tables and Knick knacks, The 2 products she uses in Famowood Glaze Coat, and Pro Marine Table top epoxy. Has anyone used these or can you tell me what type of epoxy can be used? Should I be looking for a polymer type epoxy?

You should be looking for epoxy that’s designed for the job. You don’t have an epoxy problem. I believe you have an inventory management problem. You either kept it around too long or, perhaps, you just happen to get the rare defective unit. However, as I stated before, thread finish has a shelf life of a year. If you’re that concerned about it, buy the thread finish in the 24 cc pre-loaded syringes at the same time you purchase the blank and components and you won’t have an issue.

Daryl, there is no doubt that I have a management problem...lol But I do not buy my components from where I get my resign. So, I was hoping that someone can give me some ideas as to pick up epoxy that works for the thread at a local area. These companies kind of hide their formula and it is hard to know what may work and what will not work. I am very inconsistent on when I build a rod and for that reason it would be nice to just go pick up some epoxy locally. I hope some have ideas on which epoxy locally they use for finish? ..thanks..

Hey Mark, not casting stones. I have my own short comings, lol. The only non-thread finish designed epoxy I've heard of anyone using is a version of Gorilla glue, but I can't recall the particular one. But, I saw it on YouTube. Essentially, you need it to have some give, have a strong bond, but have some elasticity because, obviously, it's going to get flexed when the rod is in use. Good luck and if you try something like the Gorilla glue, or whatever, let us know how it turns out.

Mark,
Get yourself West System GFlex 2 part epoxy.
I use that for all my structural building .
Been using their products for 50 yrs.
Herb

Heat a bowl of water in the microwave and put the gelled epoxy, in the bottles, in the water.

It is not clear if he is talking about wrap epoxy or structural epoxy. Heating it to eliminate the gelling is OK with either one. Many of us warm our wrap epoxy before applying. Additionally, most wrap epoxies have shelf life much longer than one year. It is likely your gelling problem is due to temperature.

As stated above use a product "made for the job!"

Stated above - "some ideas as to pick up epoxy that works for the thread at a local area."

Unless you have a tackle or rod component store in your locality that has rod building thread finish, I think you would be better off ordering some. I have had the resin thicken up many times but never the hardener component. The resin will re-liquify if microwaved for about ten seconds at a time or otherwise gently heated. Hard to beat thread finish products designed for rod building. I use Flex Coat High Build but many others work as well.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2023 02:02PM by Ross Pearson.

Mark,
You have an issue.
Your issue that you need a good adhesive to glue to gether - two easily to glue up materials.

I have used epoxies of various types through out my life.

I have never used an epoxy that had the brand name Rod on it to glue together anything including fishing rod parts or total rod parts.

I have used 2 minute, 5 minute, 15 minute, 30 minute, 45 minute, 60 minute, 120 minute and 240 minute cure time for doing a various gluing or laminating job.

I get glue from hobby supply houses, from big box stores like Home Depot, Menards, Fleet Farm, tractor supply, and others.

I simply have to say out of the many many different types of epoxies that I have used - when used according to the directions on the label - have never let me down or failed.

Likely over 90% of these gallons of epoxies that I have used over the years, have been the NON paste type adhesive. For myself, I have never found it necessary to use ay sort of paste or "Thick" style of epoxy for the work that I have done over the years.

I have glued wood, fiberglass, brass, steel, graphite, cork, and the list goes on and on.

Summary:

Of course you can use typical hardware store variety epoxy. Just choose the epoxy that you need for a particular job with an appropriate cure time for the epoxy.

Remember, if there is a cure time on the label on the adhesive container - you have about 1/2 that time for actual working time.

i.e. if you are using 30 minute epoxy, you can work with it for about 15 minutes and then, it begins to "kick" or cure, so you need to be done by that time.

If you are using an adhesive that you have never used before, do a test glue up of materials identical to what you are planning to glue with the new adhesive. Test for "Working time" as well as the final service in use time from the initial mixing of materials.

NOTE:
Always mix all parts of epoxy very well, wiping mixing stick on sides of container, and wiping off the insides of the container to insure a 100% mix of all parts of the adhesive.

NOTE 2:

If quality adhesive and if stored in cool dark locations - with adhesive parts separated in sealed containers, there is no reason that a quality epoxy adhesive can be stored for 10 years or more with no issue about going bad or getting hard.

I do make a point to use a marker to record, whether the container is part a or part b and the date of purchase on each adhesive container.

Just the other day, I used epoxy with a date of 2007 on it and it mixed, cured and setup just fine.

Note3:
If you do have part a or part b - that has changed for some reason and does not mix easily and a test glue up does not cure - throw the adhesive and purchase new.

But, having said that, if you purchase quality glue, store it in cool dark places in sealed container, the adhesive will be good for many many years in their sealed containers.

Take care



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2023 01:49PM by roger wilson.

He’s talking about thread finish gentleman. See his second post.

Good advise from all. thank you. After all the advise, it is to critical to try and find a substitute. So, I will just order some tomorrow from flex coat. I will and try aand warm up the epoxy i have to see if it will work. thanks everyone...

Mark,
The solution is very simple.

One note:
I never apply thread coating finish that is warmer than about 70 degrees or so.

I have found that if I use finish warmer than that - I seriously affect the cure time of the finish. i.e. warmer temps really accelerate the cure time.

Now, if you have your part A or your part B gelling and or crystalizing, Just put the bottles - one at a time - in the microwave with the lid off the bottle and use the microwave for 10 seconds at a time, checking between bursts of heat. When the gelling or crystalizing is gone for that bottle, do the same for the other bottle is necessary.

Then, just let the bottles set for a couple of hours to be sure that they have have cooled back down to room temperature and go ahead and use your usual method to measure, mix and apply your finish.

NOTE:
Do, not have the finish warmer than room temperature when applying, if you want a decent working time on the finish.

Best wishes

For bonding epoxy, such as bonding reel seat or grip to the blank, I have never had issues with epoxy from 5 minutes to 24 hours, but I keep a fresh small syringe type on hand given the low price, or buy a new one if the old one has been around and open for a while. I also make a lot of golf clubs. I don't like the 5 minute type as it sets up to fast. I have found that Permatex 30-minute works just fine and, if you want, they make a marine version.

If you are talking about epoxy finish for threads, that's a totally different product, and a mixed batch usually will have 15-20 minutes of shelf life before getting to thick. Thread or finish epoxy will yellow in the bottle after a year or so. Best to get a new and fresh couple of bottles after a year.

For a bix box store product, I have seen people use "Clear Gorilla Glue" as a thread epoxy, and there are a few videos on line. But you want the clear version not the regular. Home Depot has the clear version. Just brush on product right from the bottle.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/28/2023 11:48PM by david taylor.

Thank you guys for the advice!!!!!!!!!!!

I don't know any brands other than what we use sold as wrapping epoxy, but I do know the properties I am looking for. The properties I look for in a wrapping epoxy: It needs to be clear, flexible, self leveling and cure without leaving a tacky surface. Craft stores will have epoxies that may fit your bill. I would try whatever your wife is using on a sample piece and see if it is flexible enough without cracking. The self leveling is more about viscosity, if it is too thin you can't have enough build up to self level. You can use multiple coats to build it up though. You can try the above techniques of warming the affected epoxy. I use Flex Coat and as of lately Gen 4. I live where it stays mostly warm so I don't really have that problem. Maybe you should store it inside when not using if you are keeping it in a non-climate controlled area.

If you are having on-going problems with epoxy "jelling" it may be the temperature where you store it. If that is the case, warming it will make it fluid again.