I’m about to start my second rod build. I have some gold wrapping thread, but it’s the metallic variety. I’ve read the metallic variety can be a little tricky to work with. Would it be advisable to avoid using it until I have a bit more experience? I’m just wrapping guides, no trim bands or fancy stuff.

Thanks!

Go for it. It works the same as non-metallic. As you get to the smallest diameter of the blank it tends to "crack" a little. Try to wrap it without having to pack and burnish as much as possible nearer the rod tip,

I'm kind of new but I've found that the metallic thread just needs to be handled carefully. The thread is made by wrapping a strip of foil around the thread and if handled too aggressively or running it through your fingers will cause the foil to creep along the thread creating gaps in the foil and exposing the thread underneath. I try to just not run it through my fingers for applications where the length is short 9often you need to run it through your fingers after cutting it from the spool because of twists forming while unspooling the thread but keep it to a minimum. If I am doing multiple trim bands in close proximity or spread out along a section I will take the section of metallic and dip the ends of the metallic thread in Krazy glue to keep the foil from creeping along the thread.Try this, take a length of metallic and run it repeatedly through your fingers and watch the ends of the thread. After a number of strokes you will see the metallic foil extend beyond the underlying thread and eventually there will be gaps visible along the length.

Interestingly, I recently did a wrap where there were multiple olive branches in close proximity. What I found after applying epoxy was the branches done first looked more bold / fat than the ones done in succession. I chalked it up to the fact the all the branches were done with the same length of thread and that handling the thread while doing the wrap caused it to tighten up or loosen up or something that caused it to gradually reduce diameter making the branch look finer in detail than the intial ones....you would not notice were they spread out but in close proximity you can see it. I'll share a pic of what I mean....the branch on the right are the same threads as the branch on the left and though it is subtle you can see the difference. It's one of those things that once you see it you can't unsee it. Focus on the black thread. All the trim bands and the olive branches are the same thread and now that I look at it, it is obvious that the first trim bands are fatter than the last.



Thread work is reality scaled down to a level where small details compound into larger ones. Good luck and I would just go ahead and try the metallic...



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/27/2023 11:51AM by Bob Foster.

Thanks for the replies. That's nice looking Bob. I see what you mean with the black bands. I'm not doing any of that kind of work. Just wrapping guides.

my experience is to keep the metallic out of the "button" tensioners. Also points made as well on how much to handle it, etc...

I have found Hitena metallics to be the best I've worked with across several brands...

Practice and play with it a few times before trying it 'for real'. I do this all the time to get the hang of something I haven't done before.

Gorgeous wraps in the pic!

Thanks Michael and Les. I didn’t think about the buttons rubbing on the metal. I have some old rods that I stripped down to practice on so I’ll give a go at wrapping the metal thread on one of those first.

Right on!

Metalic thread is a little different animal than normal thread, as you will see from wrapping it and tying it off.

Tying off metalic thread, that is, when you go to pull it through to secure the tag under the wraps, may also be tricky depending on how you want to do it. I'll describe two of the most common methods:

Method One: Pulling the tag all the way through so the tag extends out of the wrap.
- The thread may have a tendency to knot or kink up at the edge of the main wraps as you pull it through with your pull loop. The reason: the metalic filament separates from the other filaments as it is 'squeeged' under the main
wrap.
- To handle this, go slowly while pulling your loop through, and flatten out the kink with your thumbnail or burnish tool, or just pull back gently on the tag and see if the knot will un-kink.
- It helps to cut your tag a little shorter (about 1.5 to 2 inches for me) so you don't have to pull a lot of metalic thread under your wraps. This reduces the amount of 'twist length' and lets the thread unwravel a bit. Just don't cut
the tag shorter than you can get ahold of later to trim it off.

Method Two: Start your pull loop about 7 to 9 wraps ahead of your finish point. Pull the loop and metalic thread tag tight against the wraps so it won't loosen, but don't pull it under the wraps yet. Then, cut the tag to a length so that, when pulled through, the tag is completely under the wraps. There is no tag to trim.

Play with these two methods. I use the first one mostly, but many like method two.

Keep it going!

If you use a metallic embroidery thread like for instance Sulky thread it was designed to pass through the machine's tensioner and the needle at very high speeds. I have had zero issues with it, and it is as close as my local fabric store with a large variety of colors.

I’m not opposed to that Spencer, but I thought I read somewhere where sewing thread was not suitable for rod wrapping. However, I don’t recall where I read that, or the reason why.

By the way, with respect to using metallic thread with the conventional spring loaded steel disks:

Flex coat has teflon pads available to use with the spring loaded metallic disks that eliminate the bulk of the problems when using metallic thread with the spring loaded metallic disks.

An example of a teflon pad to reduce friction. Just cut it to size as needed for your tension device:

[www.musicmedic.com]

Roger, I believe you're onto something there! Thank you!

Daryl Ferguson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I’m not opposed to that Spencer, but I thought I
> read somewhere where sewing thread was not
> suitable for rod wrapping. However, I don’t
> recall where I read that, or the reason why.

My understanding is don't use standard machine thread to wrap guides, but metallic machine thread is fine to use as trim of decorative wraps (never as the full load bearing guide wrap). And even mudhole sells sulky metallic thread; but not sulky standard thread.

But I'm all for experimenting and seeing for yourself, please let us know what you do and how it goes.

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