I have an X-Ray MB-736 blank I would like to setup with a set of micro guides. Possibly looking at the Titan Artus micros, but also open to suggestions. What combination of sizing and spacing is everyone using for micros?

Pretty simple
Size 20 stripper, followed by a size 12 and then run micro runners in your choice of size to the tip with the same size tip top. The particular brand and or type are secondary.

Best wishes

Casting rod? Start with a 12 butt guide and then an 8 and then on down to whatever size micros you want to use. Because they sit lower to the rod you might want to use as many total guides as maybe one guide per foot of rod length plus two or three additional plus the tip. Do not worry about weight much because the micros are so light to begin with.

For a 7’3” casting rod 8-6-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-4…

So this far we have recommendations for size 20 stripper, a size 12 stripper and a size 8 stripper - anyone want to go for a 6 stripper - lol

Would help to know the reel in question (and confirm if we’re talking spinning or casting)….

RV-6

It's just amazing, on this forum and others, that recommendations are asked for without ever stating cast or spin.

I wouldn't think of that blank as a spinner Mick , but I hear ya'. My first thought is "did you do a search?" So I did: [www.rodbuilding.org]

It will be a casting rod setup. Mainly for light Texas rig applications. Will be using a Lews custom light reel on it. Probably 12-14lb flouro. What I’m having some issue with is guide spacing. Would replicating spacing from say a Duckett micro magic be sufficient as I know wit micros you will need more of them. Thanks for all the replies. Main goal is also as light as possible.

RV6 (or kw10) KW 5, KB4.5, kt 4.5 if torzite. Use 5.5 and 5’s if not.

The kr-concept is fuji’s solution to all the issues people have with micro setups.

[www.fujitackle.eu]

The choke guides are spaced as normal 19-21” from reel then the running guides are spaced to prevent the line from falling below the blank under load. Get 10 micros and space them 3” apart then move as needed during the static load test. May need more or less depending on results.

Michael Ward Wrote:
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> So this far we have recommendations for size 20
> stripper, a size 12 stripper and a size 8 stripper
> - anyone want to go for a 6 stripper - lol
>
> Would help to know the reel in question (and
> confirm if we’re talking spinning or
> casting)….


Casting rods don't have stripping guides or choke guides. Those are found on fly and then spinning rods. The first guide on a casting rod is a butt guide and there is no reason for it to be any larger than the level wind mechanism on the reel. I start with a 12 just to provide enough height to keep the line off the rod when the rod is flexed deeply into the butt area. If you put it close enough, you can go even smaller.

Michael Tarr Wrote:
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> The choke guides are spaced as normal 19-21”
> from reel then the running guides are spaced to
> prevent the line from falling below the blank
> under load. Get 10 micros and space them 3”
> apart then move as needed during the static load
> test. May need more or less depending on results.


You are confusing "choke" guide with the butt guide on a spinning rod. The choke guide is further up the rod and is the first running guide. The butt guide is the first guide beyond the reel and is usually located at the 19 to 23 inch distance from the reel.

When I set up a Fuji KR casting rod using micro guides, I use either a KW10 or RV6 butt guide about 19-21” in front of the spool. These two guides give the height needed to help keep the line off the blank, the RV6 only comes with a titanium frame and thus is more expensive than a stainless KW10. The butt guide is then followed by a double foot KW5.5 which in turn is followed by two to three KB4 running belly guides which are followed by KT4 running tip guides. For a 7’3” rod I normally use 10 to 11 guides total which are progressively spaced using a two line static test. I rarely place the last running guide closer than 3.5” from the tip top. If you want to use another brand of guides, use similarly sized guides and you should be ok.
Norm

My set up would be a Fuji RV6 and the rest KB5s with the last 3 guides near the tip KT5s. Doesn't have to be complicated. I like the size 5s for running guides due to the heavier line size. I would use a 4mm ring for 10# mono or 20# braid. Instead of the Fuji the AT guide would be a Typhoon DCRLS-8 stripper guide and the rest Titan Artus 4s. It doesn't look they have them in 5mm rings. Bothe set ups would have 11 guides total + a tip top. Let us know what you decided. Sorry, but I always call the guide closest to the reel the stripper guide.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2023 01:15PM by Lance Schreckenbach.

Choke guides on a casting rod are commonly referred to as butt guides or even stripper guides… not uncommon to see.

Michael Tarr Wrote:
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> Choke guides on a casting rod are commonly
> referred to as butt guides or even stripper
> guides… not uncommon to see.

Not uncommon but incorrect. Line is stripped from a fly rod thus the 1st guide beyond the reel is a stripping guide. The 1st guide on a casting or spinning rod is called a butt guide. The choke guide is unique to the New Guide Concept is the smallest of the guides on the rod and is the first running guide. If you read the rod building books down through the years you will see these are the terms and how they have been used. The glossary on this site is a good read for learning the correct terms as they apply to fishing rods. Questions usually get better answers if everyone is on the same page and using the terms as they were coined at the time.

Hello Mike & Michael.


Just look in the "Glossary" at the top.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2023 06:03PM by Robert A. Guist.

This is probably beside the point and perhaps semantics but I think there is value to those who build rods for sale to know and use the correct terms. I've been doing this a long time and can usually tell what a person means even if they use the terms incorrectly. But if you think about it, would you trust an auto mechanic that didn't know the difference between an alternator and a generator? Or who didn't understand the difference between a torque converter and a clutch disc? Most of us here can read between the lines. A customer may not be able to do that.

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