Hello all, I’m new here and have a question. Ive built a couple rods already and I like short rear grips due to the fact that I fish from a kayak. The way I shortened my grips is by positioning the reel seat further back towards the butt leaving 6.5” behind the reel seat for the fighting butt and rear grip. At the time that seemed the logical and easiest way to achieve the grip length I needed, however, I had considered placing the reel seat as if I were going to use a more standard grip length and cutting the blank behind the reel to the correct length. I’ve read alot about how cutting the blank would change the power and action so I just decided to move the reel/grip assembly back instead of cutting. Since then I’ve been thinking that it really shouldn’t make any difference what is cut behind the reel seat and it seems to me that the distance between the reel seat and rod tip is the only factor that should affect the rod power and action. Am I wrong in thinking that? Also I wonder what advantages/disadvantages there are to setting the rear grip length by moving the assembly rearward vs cutting. Any thoughts or experiences with this?

"it seems to me that the distance between the reel seat and rod tip is the only factor that should affect the rod power and action. Am I wrong in thinking that?"
YES.

"Also I wonder what advantages/disadvantages there are to setting the rear grip length by moving the assembly rearward vs cutting. Any thoughts or experiences with this?"
LOSING LEVERAGE WHEN FIGHTING A FISH.
AS YOU SAID - CHANGING ACTION - I.E. MAKING THE ROD FASTER.
Herb

“Yes” meaning I’m wrong about that? I’m having a hard time understanding how cutting anything behind the reel seat changes anything forward of the reel seat. It seems like I could glue a 10 foot steel rod to the butt and it won’t change anything as long as the reel seat position remains the same.

CC your blank at your grip position, then CC it where you think it ought to be after cutting the blank, what did you learn? No need to guess, it will stare you in the face with facts.

Spencer Phipps Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> CC your blank at your grip position, then CC it
> where you think it ought to be after cutting the
> blank, what did you learn? No need to guess, it
> will stare you in the face with facts.

??

Things are a bit different here aren’t they? Usually these forums exist to share knowledge and ideas. The first response i got walking in the door was a very dismissive “Yes” …the second response was essentially “ I could help you out, but instead here’s a homework assignment… figure it ot“. The problem is that, if, at this time I was set up to perform a ccs, then that’s exactly what I would be doing. I’ll see myself out.

If you remove material from the butt end and the distance from the reel seat to the tip does not change, the power/action / whatever will remain the same.

The only change you MAY notice is in the handling because of a slight unbalance or "feel" from the weight reduction and over time you will subconsciously adjust to this.

The material between the reel seat and the butt end is there for you to place the non-grip hand for leverage, casting, fish handling,comfort or be a support for the rod when placed in a rod holder.

The length of the butt is arbitrary and is determined by the needs of the user.

Have fun

Anytime you cut a blank you are going to make it slower in action. Cutting the butt will reduce the rod's power. I would only cut a blank if I wished to change it's length. That doesn't seem to be the case for you.

Sometimes the easiest way to think these things thru is to use an extreme example. If you only left three feet of the tip, likely the blank would bend all the way to the handle (slower), and it certainly wouldn't have the power it used to have.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

David,
I am sorry if you took my "YES response to be Dismissive.
It was not intended as such.
I quoted you above my "TES" and ws simply agreeing with your reasoning.
Herb
PS - Ahhhh - Isee your point.
I should have eliminated your last statement - "Am I wrong about that"?



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2023 10:50AM by Herb Ladenheim.

With the same handle length from the rear end of the reel seat to the butt end of the rod, you can shorten the overall length of a spinning grip about 2” by installing the reel seat in the down locking position (fixed hood to the rear threaded barrel to the front). This will also increase the distance from the front of the spool to the tip top. If I wanted a short grip, I would just install a short grip on the rod rather than cut the blank shorter after installing the reel seat as if it was on a longer handle. If I wanted a shorter blank I would buy one rather than cut a longer blank to make it shorter. With such a short handle (6.5”) I would do a one piece grip vs a split grip. In my opinion, your initial way of just moving everything back to make a short grip is the way I would do it.
Norm

David,
Lets go back to the beginning:
You have indicated that you are fishing from a kayak much of the time.

So, the first thing to consider is the length of the fishing rod.

I assume that this is why are even asking questions.

Determine the length rod that you want to fish with - when you are in your boat.

Once you have determined the overall length of the rod that you want to use when fishing, also assuming that you want 6 1/2 inches behind the reel seat, then as they say in Star Wars - " Make it so"

i.e., if you want 6 feet of rod from your hand to the tip of the rod, you will need to have a 6' 9" rod blank or there about.

So you can start with a 7 foot blank and trim the butt to 6'9" and you will be set.

Or you can simply start with a 6'9" blank and build your rod with a 6/12 inch rear grip, then your reel seat. Today, many many folks never install fore grips, because for the most part they are not necessary. However, if fishing from a kyak, and if going after bigger fish in the +20 lb range, the the installation of a fore grip is really important.

Perhaps, the question that you need to ask, is how do I come up with the best rod that I want in the boat with me when I go fishing.

1. Determine the length of rod that you want to be in front of your hand that is holding the rod from the reel seat.
2. Add on 6 1/2 inches to accommodate the installation of a rear grip.
3. This gives you your bare blank length.
4. Either buy blanks of that dimension , or buy longer blanks and cut from either the butt, or if you have a soft tipped rod blank that you want to be more stout, then trim a bit from the tip.
"Caution" -- be very careful about cutting any material from the tip. If you want to have a rod with a sensitive tip, to help feel the bite of a soft biting fish, even a small amount of trimming from the tip, can essentially ruin the rod for this type fishing.
However, if your bites are always of the hit and slash variety - then, it makes sense to have a more powerful tip - that is achieved by trimming material from the tip.

So your situation, as I see it, simply comes down to the question of how do I select a rod blank that is of the right length, action and power to let you fish from your kayak, with a rod that is of the right length in front of your hand, while having a 6 1/2 inch rear grip.

Buy the blank of your choice. Trim it to the length you want that will give you a 6 1/2 inch rear grip, build the rod and go fishing.

Best wishes.



.

David, some interesting reading here: [www.rodbuilding.org]

Read the new issue of the magazine. The stuff on handle length is something nobody has brought up before and it makes perfect sense. To good to miss.

@DAVID Welcome to the board my man, and thank you for bringing this up - inspired me to play around with my reel seat positioning and see if I can feel a change. I'm new to building and to the board as well, glad to have ya.

Norman and Roger hit the nail on the head, words I will be applying for my future blank purchases considering length of rod in front of or behind grip - no need to cut anything, just subtract my goal grip length from total rod length as that will have some affect on action and power/feel. So you were right, 5 inches behind reel or 5 feet behind reel will all behave the same up front.

The only thing I'd add was already touched on - less weight usually means more sensitive (although the difference may not be discernable to a human.).

Thanks for posting, hope you stick around and ask more questions I haven't thought of yet haha

Also @MIKE what hasn't been said about handle length before?

A lot. Do you read the magazine? It's always been years ahead of forums and FB type stuff. A lot if not most of the stuff commonly accepted today in the fishing rod world was first shown in the magazine.The Common Cents System, carbon skinned grips, micro guides, on and on and on, they all saw the first light of day in the magazine. To much to list as there have been over a thousand articles, Tom would have a better idea of the actual number but I know it is huge.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2023 09:30PM by Mike Ballard.

David...your thinking is pretty much correct.
Just cut what you need off the butt end and your good to go.
Its a simple repair.

If you move the reel seat back...you may find that you need to also adjust the guides.
And in essense...you will have a bit longer rod (from reel seat to tip).

keep it simple. if 6.5 inches works set your seat at that . Don't cut the blank. personally I think most make handles to long anyway. anything over 9 inches is a waste of blank ( imo) except crankbait rods.