Alright I've done a provision search but could not come up with an answer to my particular situation.
I've applied two coats of epoxy using ProKote and Flex Coat (high build). Both have dried well.
Now I've applied one last coat, but only to the area where I have decals and a hook keeper. This last coat has not dried. I mixed 1ml ea. of ProKote using syringes so I thought the mixture was pretty accurate, but it has not dried 12 hours later. It's still runny in the mixing cup and tacky on the rod sections, and I'm not sure what happened? Maybe I need to mix a larger quantity, 2ml+?
So I have several questions. Can I mix a new batch and apply it over the tacky coat? Or does the uncured coat need to be removed?
If I attempt to remove it, how should I go about it, being that I do not want to ruin the decals? Heat? Denatured Alcohol? Thanks for the input...

Give it some slightly elevated heat and time, and then put on a new coat. It should be OK UNLESS what happened in the problem coat was that you put two syringes of the same component together.

My philosophy is always to try the least disruptive solution to any problem first, and the least disruptive would be to try to salvage the problem coat with gently elevated heat and time. My experience with Pro Kote is that it really takes a long time to lose its tackiness. If the problem coat is a mix of two syringes of the same component, it won't harden and then would be the time to try alcohol.

There might be a better strategy. We'll see what others have to say.

Dennis,
I know you think that it is impossible that you used same bottle for both - but it happened to me - won't do it again - famous last words.
Herb

Dennis,

You should get lots of feedback from others on this, but here is what I have done:

First, I would remove the tacky coat on the rod with an alcohol soaked paper towel or lint-free wipe. Wipe it all off. Then, let it dry. (Alcohols are in a category I think of as gentle solvents and cleaners)

Next, mix up a new batch of epoxy. Best practice is to thoroughly mix 3 ml of each of the two parts for two or three minutes. (I don't always do this and mix smaller amounts, as you seem to do, too. This works for me most of the time...but is not bullet-proof.)

Apply again. You should be fine.

As Michael said, Pro Kote seems to take more curing time. Let it set overnight in a warmer room. Also, in cold weather, epoxy takes longer to cure.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/26/2022 11:45AM by Les Cline.

Look at your bottles - is the level of both the same? If not, then Herb has your problem nailed. And if that is the case, you can likely just wipe off the last application you applied. If not, you can apply a properly measured and mixed batch over what you have now and should be okay.

In the future I'd mix a bit more epoxy to give yourself a better margin for error. Most epoxy finish suppliers suggest no less than 3ccs per part.

..............

Sounds like two of the same parts of epoxy was mixed. To try to cure it using additional heat or application of more epoxy indicates there is a problem and is not recommended.

The fix would be to try to remove the tacky layer and apply a new layer.

To remove it I would determine which solvent is most effective for that brand of epoxy, DNA, xylene, acetone etc. If possible test it on a portion of the batch in the mixing cup.

Then use liberal amounts of solvent on the tacky area until it is removed.

Do this in a well ventilated area or outside.

Good luck

If the remaining epoxy in the mix is still runny, it is most likely that you used two amounts of the same part, ie, resin or hardner. If that is not the case, one of two things or maybe even both are the cause. Inaccurate measurements or too little mixing.

When mixing that small amount of epoxy, there little room for error in quantity.

As mentioned above, elevating the temperature around the rod will help if it is just slow curing which ProKote is known for..

I have had little success in cleanly removing partly cured epoxy.....good luck!

Thanks for the great replies. After checking, both bottles of pro kote are even which indicates to me that if I made an error in the mixup, it was ever so slight. The interesting thing is that the mixed epoxy in the cup is still soft, whereas the epoxy on the rod is not a soft, but rather tacky. My fingerprints do not register on it, which is a good thing. If I wait another 24 hours and apply a new coat of epoxy over it still being tacky, will this not contaminate the new epoxy?

I also do not understand how applying heat will help it to cure? Doesn’t heat soften it and prevent curing?

Don't apply direct heat but do put the rod in a warm place, at least room temperature. Heat accelerates the set and cure. For every 20F below about 72F, your epoxy will take twice as long to cure tack-free. If you're working in a very cool environment, this could be your issue.

.......

As others have stated it sounds like you used two parts of either the resin or hardener. I’ve done it on several occasions. One ml is not a lot so the bottles my look to be at the same level. The reason for it being tacky on the rod is due to the previous coats of epoxy allowing for a partial cure. Since the mixing cup only contains the resin or hardener it will remain runny. Increased heat causes epoxy to cure quicker because it increases the rate of the chemical reaction that is taking place.
Norm

Another thing to do to minimize risk of poor mix is to take epoxy from the center of the pool. If some isn't mixed well enough it will most likely be at the edges.

When this happens, where you have finish that is tacky but not cured, and was likely caused by inadequate mixing- place the rod in a room that you can heat up to about 90 degrees for a couple of days.
At the end of that time, it is almost certain that the finish will be cured.

As I have said before - I mix for 120 seconds as measured by the clock on the wall. I mix slowly with craft sticks, frequently wiping the stick and the sides of the mixing cup to insure that 100% of the product is well mixed.

Best wishes

Dennis,
All of the above replies are very good, but no one can be certain if both parts of the epoxy were included or only one. I am in total agreement with Michael’s statement “My philosophy is always to try the least disruptive solution to any problem first…”
Post curing at an elevated temperature (possibly 24 - 48 hours) may cure the mix presently on the rod ENOUGH to apply a proper ratio / properly mixed coat over it. If both A and B parts are present, it should go-off, even if not optimally. Most of the rod building epoxies are considered “low temp” which means <150*F. Since it is a rather small area of the rod, a cardboard box fitted with a drop light with a =< 40 watt lightbulb inside can easily produce 150*F. To avoid overcooking the rod, a simple probe type meat thermometer poked through the box will provide accurate enough monitoring of the temp. If the present coat of epoxy cures adequately, apply a proper coat over it and you’re done.
If the 150*F post cure does NOT cure the present epoxy, then most likely only one part was initially mixed and you may find that one of your syringes has cured epoxy in the tip. In such a case, the original coat will require being removed. That can be iffy so as not to disturb the decals. If possible, try to remove the epoxy by pulling a strip of lint-free cloth or paper towel (coffee filter?) the opposite direction of the rotating rod without any type of solvent. If the epoxy is too thick or viscous and grabs the towel, then you will have to include a solvent. While there are those who may use alcohols such as DNA, alcohol is not a properly compatible solvent or thinner for most epoxies; use acetone.
In the future, consider not mixing any less than 3mm each of parts A and B to give yourself that additional margin of error.
Good luck and please keep us posted on the progress of your dilemma; I sure I am not the only one interested.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

If you still have the runny epoxy in the cup you might be able to check if you used two parts of hardener or resin. One way could be to split the runny epoxy in half

Add some resin to one half and some hardener to the other half

If one sets up but not the other you probably used only hardener or resin

Dennis I think Ray has made a good workable suggestion to figure out if the harder and resin were combined or not. I live in a boat building community where Gougeon epoxy is sold by the 50 gal drum and sales reps visit and give talks. The first thing they stress is to treat epoxy as a chemical formula (in your case one to one) in order for it to harden as advertised. The second is temperature(warmer temp. will decrease hardening time). Third is that if you have ANY hardener in the mix it will eventually kick off. As Norman suggested you may have provided some hardener by applying over a previous coat. I think time or applying a fresh coat over your tacky coat will "cure" your problem.

Caution,
I have never been of the school to apply a properly measured and mixed coat of epoxy over a coat of finish that is still tacky and is not firm and well cured.

I simply use the analogy that this is akin to building house on a sand foundation.

With a soft base, the top stories are predicted to eventually fail.

--------------
Rather, if you do fins your self in the predicament, the prudent thing to do for a perfect long lasting job is to remove the wraps and all of the wrapping finish and rewrap the cleaned up guides with fresh properly proportioned and mixed epoxy thread finish.

Take care

Update. Well, I do appreciate all of you for weighing in on this. I went ahead and put some heating lamps in the room and waited another 24 hours. And would you know it, the epoxy cured after all. I guess my limited experience in working with pro kote, did not factor in that it took a while to cure under colder conditions. That was the case here. Normally when I’ve used pro kote, it cures within 24 hours. Thanks again for all of you that chimed in. This is a great site and I do appreciate all of you taking time to help a brother out. Happy new year to all.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2022 06:17PM by Dennis Penton.

Another endorsement for taking the least disruptive strategy first. We had three experienced builders recommending that the finish, and in one case, the guides, be removed.

All he had to do was apply gentle heat and wait.

Maybe try a few different finishes, it can be rewarding. Costs a bit up front but you'll know where you stand.