In thinking of cutting back that NFC 705 SM to 6ft. How do you cut a blank? What can I use the left over rod piece for (reel seat insert, extend another rod)?

The goal here is to have a rather short rod for fishing under the dock I'm standing on, and the boats there next to it. These bass are 4-7 pounds and smart - it's brutal crystal clear water like 35+ft visibility at least and always. I've only gotten them to bite Ned rigs, a wacky rig, and a chatterbait in about 5 years. They go for practically nothing, and even with those I can spend days with them either completely ignoring everything or just a quick sniff and they're out. But when they go for the finesse the rod doesn't have the power to keep them from wrapping around pilings or I'm too on top of them and things go awry another way. I'm thinking shorter stouter power finesse, I'll get under the boats better and be able to control better.

Or I could order the NFC C 565, I feel like extra short will be fun and different and helpful in that dock situation.

I'm also looking at the NFC FLIP 764 for swim jigs, chatterbait, and whatever else feels good after experimenting. I fell in love with swim jigs this past season and really like a moderate fast rod for them. I was using st croix victory mhmf which was just a little too mf soft, but still turned me on the the mf feel of a swim jig bass.

Any experience with the NFC MB 735 HM? Data (and your interpretation of the data please)?

Here's what I ordered - what should I add to fill in gaps or is just a blank worth getting...

For my 3 year old little girl I got the SB5100 (I know I'm a little early but I'm excited haha)
For my wife MB 662 HM (I'll probably use it more than her - good for ?)

MB 735 HM (I hear great all around rod, excel at anything?)
DS 721 X-RAY (thinking NED rig and some DS, maybe try a mojo rig and finesse jig)
MB 7109 X-RAY (thinking BIG jigs-/worms/swim jigs 3/4-1 1/4 weights)
MB 705 SM

I'd probably swap the victory to cranks and I have a 6'8 MH Fitzgerald Versa for big jerkbaits and target chatterbaits. Thoughts on those two rods in general? I also have kistler helium 7ft (maybe 7'3) LMH XF for jigs/worms.

Most of my water is ponds anywhere between 3-12 ft visibility, lots of weeds often lilies, some small lakes, and some deeper clearer water when I go to Maine and chase smallies.

I know I asked a lot, but figured why flood the forum with new threads if I can squeeze a couple together.

Appreciate all of you who take the time to make this site a place for newbies to grow and vets to sharpen, much respect.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/16/2022 07:20PM by El Bolinger.

Abrasive cut off wheel in a Dremel to cut blanks works great.

Was curious about best way to cut off a rod blank as well. Do you need to tape off the portion of the blank to remain to minimize having any splintering? Any other prep needed? Also, if you don't have a dremel tool could you use a circular saw or miter saw with a fine blade?

I usually tape it just in case. Never used a circular saw or miter saw for trimming blanks, but I have used fine tooth hand saw. Rotating it as I cut. I bet a pipe/tubing cutter would work too but never tried it.

The original Gitzit and dock skipping rods were all short, so I don't see how you can be that far off with the C 565-1, I've learned more by doing than anywhere else. If you find the rod to your liking and want to try some other blanks, I have 2 Lamiglas Certified Pro 5 1/2 ft. blanks left you can have for the shipping. MH, 10-20 lb line, 1/4 to 1 oz. lures. XC 664. Haven't sold one in over 10 years, used to sell one or two a year.

Awesome Spencer, thanks! I'll send an email.

I've never even seen a Lamiglas rod in person, but definitely hear good things.

Not gonna lie, the way this community has welcomed me and supported me in such a short time already has really been quite a blessing, I'm truly grateful I was moved in this direction. Already has me excited for the day I can help out the new kid haha.

I use a mini chop saw that excels for cutting blanks.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I started with one of these from Harbor Freight:
[www.harborfreight.com]

Then, I removed the saw blade and removed the saw from its base. I removed the clamps on the base as well as sanding off the lettering on the base. I only wanted to make perpendicular cuts.
So, I then, mounted a1/4 inch by 1/4 inch aluminum angle to the base at 90 degrees to the cutting saw shaft. On the shaft, I use 3 inch abrasive cut off wheels.
The abrasive cut off wheel cuts very cleanly and does a nice job on about anything you wish to cut.

[www.harborfreight.com]

-------------------------------
Then I used a piece of 2x stock to mount the saw for stability and put rubber feet on the 2x stock to keep the saw from moving on the bench top.

p.s.
I have also modified an 8 inch miter saw in a similar way with the addition of a raised cutting surface and a light to illuminate the work.
This started out with a $25 miter saw from a pawn shop and ended up with the saw shown below:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Note:
On this saw I use 8 inch very thin tool room abrasive cut off wheels to minimize cutting material to make the cuts very thin and very clean.

I just use a coping with a fine tooth blade. A hack saw will work just as well. I don't rotate the blank while cutting. I just go slow. Personally I don't really worry about the cut being perfectly square. The way I see it, the very butt is going to be covered with a butt cap or something else, so why fret about it being dn square.

As far as trimming length off affects the rod. I have built 3 rods on blanks I have trimmed length off on. No matter where you take the length off, the tip or the butt, it will slow the action. But that doesn't mean it will necessarily affect the way it casts. If you take it off the butt, it will reduce the blanks power, but once again, it doesn't necessarily mean it will affect the way it casts. If you take length off the tip it will affect the way it casts, and if it doesn't make it more powerful, it will feel like it has more power.

As far as the blank you're considering trimming goes .... my guess is since you're talking finesse baits, it's going to be a spinning rod. It being a spinning rod makes it easier to cast light weights on a rod that is rated for higher weights than you're casting with it, but ...... I would just say to be careful that you don't go so high power that it affects casting performance. And from the sounds of it, with water that clear, you are going to need the rod to cast extremely well so you get back from those docks so the fish can't see you.

Skipping, at least to me, is one of those compromise things where getting the bait where it needs to go is the most important part of getting bit. Once you get bit, then you worry about how you are going to get the fish out. I don't use braid on spinning gear, but because it casts so well on spinning gear, I would think it would help if you were using a rod that may be a little too stiff to cast lighter weights effectively, I think before I trimmed down a blank, I'd make sure I tried casting the kind of stuff you'll be using with rod with similar power to the blank you are considering trimming.

Or simply learn to skip with bait casting gear. A heavier faster falling bait may be just the ticket to trigger those clear water fish. I know it's definitely something I would try, as it has worked for me in the past with clear water fish.

Needing clean and square cuts, I used a Dremel/cutoff disk to reduce the total length of a three section fiberglass fly blank by two inches - keeping all three sections equal. Where the cut doesn't need to be as clean, like when I perform a butt diameter reduction, I use a fine tooth hacksaw. Taping at the cut locations helps to minimize splintering.

"The greatest barrier to discovery is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge" - Daniel J. Boorstin

Cutting 12” off off 7’ blank will dramatically change its power and action. It will become less powerful and slower. I don’t think you will be happy with the results, unless you want a less powerful and slower blank. Cutting 1” to 3” off won’t change things substantially, but 12” is a lot. If you want a 6’ blank then buy one. NFC has several 6’ blanks that might work, as well as other companies.
Norm

I completely glossed over the fact that the OP wanted to take 12" off. I was thinking more about it being too powerful to cast really light weights well, than I was how much length was going to be taken off. Like Norman said, taking 12" off will drastically change that blank.

When I mentioned my having built 3 rods on blanks I trimmed down, I did trimmed them because either there wasn't a blank available with the power I wanted, in the length I wanted. Or .... because I wanted a rod with specific characteristics, and trimming allowed me to build a rod with those characteristics.

You're building a rod to skip baits. Do as Norman said and just buy a 6' blank. There are plenty out there that will do the job just fine.

I appreciate all the insight and feedback. I'm going to take Spencer up on his offer so I won't need to cut the blank after all- which I'm super grateful for since I have none of the tools/work space nor the any point of reference as to what affect it will have - but I trust when you say it probably best to avoid it.

Should I move the bottom part of my post to another new thread so it's more clear? I thought I was saving space on the forum but sometimes saying too much at once makes things get a little convoluted and easy to things can get left out.


El Bolinger Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> I'm also looking at the NFC FLIP 764 for swim
> jigs, chatterbait, and whatever else feels good
> after experimenting. I fell in love with swim jigs
> this past season and really like a moderate fast
> rod for them. I was using st croix victory mhmf
> which was just a little too mf soft, but still
> turned me on the the mf feel of a swim jig bass.
>
> Any experience with the NFC MB 735 HM? Data (and
> your interpretation of the data please)?
>
> Here's what I ordered - what should I add to fill
> in gaps or is just a blank worth getting...
>
> For my 3 year old little girl I got the SB5100 (I
> know I'm a little early but I'm excited haha)
> For my wife MB 662 HM (I'll probably use it more
> than her - good for ?)
>
> MB 735 HM (I hear great all around rod, excel at
> anything?)
> DS 721 X-RAY (thinking NED rig and some DS, maybe
> try a mojo rig and finesse jig)
> MB 7109 X-RAY (thinking BIG jigs-/worms/swim jigs
> 3/4-1 1/4 weights)
> MB 705 SM
>
> I'd probably swap the victory to cranks and I have
> a 6'8 MH Fitzgerald Versa for big jerkbaits and
> target chatterbaits. Thoughts on those two rods in
> general? I also have kistler helium 7ft (maybe
> 7'3) LMH XF for jigs/worms.
>
> Most of my water is ponds anywhere between 3-12 ft
> visibility, lots of weeds often lilies, some small
> lakes, and some deeper clearer water when I go to
> Maine and chase smallies.
>
> I know I asked a lot, but figured why flood the
> forum with new threads if I can squeeze a couple
> together.
>
> Appreciate all of you who take the time to make
> this site a place for newbies to grow and vets to
> sharpen, much respect.

I don't know anything about the MB 735, so can't give CCS numbers, or an opinion on how it fishes. I will say this, the best all around casting rod I have ever fished with, are the 2 rods that I have built on NFC SJ 736 X ray blanks. It is an awesome blank that does a lot of things extremely well. I wouldn't use it if I were trying to pull fish out of heavy cover or fishing baits over 5/8 oz in weight, but it casts lighter weights pretty well, with it's sweet spot being 3/8 - 1/2 oz. Sensitivity is crazy good, and power is decent enough for moderate cover.

If I could have only one casting rod to fish with, it would be one of those two rods.

As far as your DS 721 X ray blank question goes. I have no experience with that blank, and I have gotten a little leery about drop shot labeled blanks. I'd have to see the CCS numbers for it before I'd even hazard an opinion.

The MB 7109 has the type of published specs I like to see for the baits you mentioned, but I don't have CCS numbers for that blank. I have two rods built on MB 709 IM blanks that I primarily use for flipping and pitching, but also throw chatterbaits and swimbaits with. I lost my paper with the CCS numbers I got when I tested one of the rods. I do remember the IP was north of 900 grams and the AA was around 68. Awesome power with a great action for big fish on a short line close to the boat. The thing that would concern me with the 7109 would be its' length and how the rod and reel combination would balance. You start talking a blank that long and you're looking at a tip heavy rod. I'm not a fan of tip heavy rods for certain presentation types, so for me it would probably be a no go. Everyone is different though.

You didn't say what you would be using the MB 705 for, but IMO it's an all around type blank as well. Not for real heavy cover, but good enough for moderate cover and heavy cover edges. Soft jerkbaits, medium size Texas rigs. Tube jigs, maybe some light Carolina rigging. The other rods you mention I have no idea about. You use them ....what do you find them good for?

My CCS data for DS 721 X Ray: IP =268 grams; ERN = 11.8; and AA = 76

Rod Label: Extra Fast, Ultra Light, 7'2", #6-10 line; 1/8 - 5/16 oz. lure.

This rod is definitely suited for the lighter, finesse arena. I built mine into a BFS casting rod, and it is a little sweetie for me with a Curado BFS and #6 fluoro line. Would do great as a spinning set up, too.

I also agree with Mr. Baylor on the SJ736! Instant classic blank design.

I built a couple dock shooting/skipping rods, too:

A.) NFC SJ 607 (IM): IP = 737.5 grams; ERN = 24.4; AA = 65: A six-foot, seven power rod. Boy, is it a little light weight power pack. Not so good for the light lure stuff!

B.) (Mud Hole) MHX Elite Series NMB753XF.: IP = 482.5; ERN = 17.4; AA = 76/77: To me, this is a very good blank for docks! A true light and XF tip, and ample power to flick lighter lures AND put the pressure on a fish in heavier cover. I have a 9-inch handle on this one and spiral wrapped it.

THANKS A bunch fellas, very helpful info.

Sj 736 looks like a mh/h xf - and although you guys Def got me itching for one my kistler helium fits that bill so I don't think ibcan justify buying another. Unless I mirror all my casting set ups with spinning set ups for garbage windy days or easier nights without worrying about a backlashing. Would you say it's an xf?

I'll take a look at the 709, but nowbthat the 7109 is making its way here soon I don't think I'll need something with that much power. I expect a possible tip heaviness and may throw a little weight in the butt to offset it. Or try some fancy thread work between grips to add some weight and flare. I just think the extra length will help from shore, which I fish most often now when I can squeeze an hour or two in (having 3 year old and 7 month old girls really hit pause on my fishing - but I'm pumped for the day I get to take them with me). Also might help yanking fish out of weeds.

But really ibthinknibsaw the description of moderate fast and got excited, I really likebthe feel of a moderate fast with single hook baits I think, recently tried this past season and loved it for swim jigs and chatterbaits.

I'm very excited about my ds721 now, thanks for sharing all that data.

The 606 looks NICE, but looks faster than what I understand the AA you said it has, but I'm still learning what actions look like what AA.

The 705 I got by accident, the pictures made it look more moderate fast than I discovered it actually is - I might give it to a friend.