I have opened a new package of flex coat high build. My routine usually takes a small flame over top very quickly of the mixed flex coat to remove bubbles. POP They're gone! This didn't seem to work as quickly as normal and I think I may have over heated it and applied. Felt pretty thick while applying. When I was done I looked close and didn't think I saw any waves. I'm not sure how old this FC is but it was still in factory packaging. My question is... if I see this again is it possible for the stuff to go bad? Anyone with a similar experience? Now I have a really wavy finish to deal with. Gonna be sanding and re-applying for couple days.

Go bad? As in it came and was OK but has gone bad? No, I don't think that has happened . I think you fell into the "heat trap" that so many builders are on the edge of when they use too much heat.

I have had wavy finishes, especially on the long sections like over decals and it was caused by three things, I believe. One, too much heat. Two, excess amount applied. Three, not the greatest technique in application, not "flowing" it longitudinally along the blank.

If the epoxy in your mixing cup is level, there is nothing wrong with the epoxy. Most likely you overheated and therefore over thinned the epoxy causing it to sag and droop. Done late enough in the process it then does not have sufficient time to re-flow properly. Non-level epoxy is never the result of "bad" epoxy. It is 100% user error. Luckily you can fix it even though it'll take a bit of sanding and re-coating.

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I think Michael and Tom have covered this issue well. But here is my answer.

When working with Flex Coat finish, it is all about best practices, as detailed in our instructions, tips and videos. While it might be fine for a time to detour outside of the best practices, but just know that problems can come from those detours.

We always say to never buy an amount of finish that you can't use in 1 year. Not because it will go bad, but because of best practices. The Part A can crystalize like honey and the Part B can amber in color. You can melt the crystals with heat but the amber color will remain. Just know that you will be thinning the amber Part B with the Part A and then brushing into a thin coat on your rod. When you see the amber Part B in the bottle, you are looking through 1 inch or more of it. On your rod it will be reduced by 50% and then less than 1/16". You will only notice the amber on white or other light colors.

If you find yourself with old finish that you don't want to use on wraps, use it as glue, it just takes longer to cure and it has very high adhesion.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Thanks everyone. I really did figured it was my doing. I’ve just never had trouble getting rid of bubbles before.

If you wait too long or take too long to apply finish, it becomes more viscous and the bubbles have a harder time to migrate/float to the surface. usually just a fast swipe of the flame under the rod will suffice. Too much fussing over your finish while applying will cause you problems.

I use Flex Coat almost exclusively. I've used others in the past but find that once you become familiar with a given finish's characteristics it helps to "stay with what works". If the mixed finish is getting too viscous it can be easier and better to just stop and re-mix a new batch. I don't "flame" my epoxy because of the chance of overheating it. I know that Tom isn't a big fan of this, but I get my finish on quickly and then use a straw to barely breathe (don't blow or use a lot of air force) on the finish from about 6" as it turns and any bubbles just pop and you end up with a clear finish. Additionally, I keep my shop temperature around 70, no higher than 75 when applying and drying finish so that it doesn't cure too quickly and trap any bubbles that want to come to the surface.

David Sytsma Wrote:
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> I use Flex Coat almost exclusively. I've used
> others in the past but find that once you become
> familiar with a given finish's characteristics it
> helps to "stay with what works". If the mixed
> finish is getting too viscous it can be easier and
> better to just stop and re-mix a new batch. I
> don't "flame" my epoxy because of the chance of
> overheating it. I know that Tom isn't a big fan of
> this, but I get my finish on quickly and then use
> a straw to barely breathe (don't blow or use a lot
> of air force) on the finish from about 6" as it
> turns and any bubbles just pop and you end up with
> a clear finish. Additionally, I keep my shop
> temperature around 70, no higher than 75 when
> applying and drying finish so that it doesn't
> cure too quickly and trap any bubbles that want to
> come to the surface.

I don't see any problem with what you're doing. I don't flame my finish, either. At most I might give it a quick lick with a BIC lighter, just a second or so. But that would be about all. Breathing on it through a straw is a fairly common practice by many.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2022 07:23PM by Tom Kirkman.

After thoroughly mixing I then pour epoxy on aluminum foil and use my breath to release/remove bubbles. I never use a flame. Love me some flex coat.

I have tried several different brands and have settled on Flex Coat. I rarely ever put a flame near my wraps, I get real close and slowly breath on them and that removes all bubbles. I may have to try the straw method that David mentioned, always learning something new here.

Steve

I've always used Flex coat also without an issue. I just seem to be really struggling with bubbles on this build.

Robert I always warm my shop up to work with epoxy, or wrapping guides for that matter. Any gluing I do the shop is warmed to at least 70-75 d. I have plenty of time to coat guides and rod handle and rod specs I have written on rod when working with well mixed epoxy on aluminum foil. 20 minutes easy from when I start mixing.

I'm in SW Florida, temperature isn't an issue normally I wouldn't think. In the summer I run A/c and keep my little shed @ 77 instead of 95. Little chilly by our standards right now but it's 69 degrees right now. But I'm sure we'll hit mid to upper 70's.

Robert,
Nice -
Here in Minneapolis, we expect to have a low of -20F in the not too distant future with a high of -5F.
No, I do not do any rod building in the unheated out of doors or other unheated structures at this time of the year.

Rather, I prefer to work in a nice heated work room with the thermostat set at 75F.

Enjoy.

Thanks everyone for advice. I have finished the "rod from @#$%&" I'm gonna call it. Little wavy a few bubbles but it's done and delivered.