Along the lines of my other post, asking about a light blank for my first rod, I need to purchase my first set of guides.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Any recommendations?

I plan to experiment with different sizes, to learn the fundamentals. This is more about learning than optimizing at this point.

Probably for mono/fluoro, at this point. Do I need to determine if braid will be used, to prevent groves.

Being a light rod, I assume I need super light weight guides.

High and low, to experiment with.

Thanks!

Cory Lowe
Man of 10,000 Lakes

Hey Corey!

You settle on the blank you want yet? Spin rod, right? (I read the other post you listed)

Here's what I would do if I were building your rod (light spinning) for myself:

For starters, I would go with a Fuji guide train following the KR Concept. Check out the KR Guide Placement Software at Angler's Resource (listed in the left margin) for WHERE to place these guides on your rod. Also, read up on the Static Test Tutorials found there for more guide placement information. The info is all very straight forward and works well for me.

The Guides:
Fuji K-Series Single Foot Spinning Reduction Guide Model KL-H: Sizes16H; 8H; and 5.5M.
Fuji K-Series Single-Foot Belly Guides Model KB: Sizes 4.5 (two guides).
Fuji K-Series Single-Foot Running Guides Model KT: Sizes 4.5 (the number of these depends on your rod's length. I'd go with two more running guides than the number suggested by the software.
Fuji Micro Spinning Top LG: Size 4.5 ring; Tube Size to fit your rod tip specs.

I like the Alconite ring material; moderate price and great durability.

Cory,
You have opened Pandora’s box by requesting suggestions on guides; be prepared to be put on sensory-overload lol. While most all modern guides are quite good, brand loyalty can instigate some rather lengthy debates. That being said, while I use other brands from time to time, I am a devoted Fuji guy. With the exception of MicroWave guides, other manufacturers pretty much follow Fuji’s R&D of concepts and components and end-up producing guides very similar to Fuji. Allow me to suggest that when starting out with rod building, simplify your guide selection by going with a proven winner = Fuji; you can experiment with others later-on after you have gained some experience. As I found after testing other guides, I prefer fuji and use them 95% of the time.
For your UL or L spinning rods, you can’t go wrong with a KR Concept guide train consisting of KL-H reduction guides followed by a few KBs and then KTs (runners) out to a LG tip top. Choose the Alconite rings for the best bang-for-the-buck. The size of the rings will be determined by the size of the reel and, more importantly, the line type. Apparently you plan on using 4 - 8lb mono / fluoro. If you will be using a 1000 - 2000 size reel, consider the following guides; KL16-H, KL8-H, KL5.5-M, at least 2 KB5s, followed by as many KT5s required out to the LG5 tip top. The runners can be smaller or larger (6s or 4s) but the smaller the guides = the more difficult to wrap. Place the KL16-H butt guide 19in - 21in from the spool face, the first KB5 (choke guide) ~23in from the butt guide and mount the other 2 reduction guides (KL8-H, KL5.5-M) to form a bullseye when sighting from the butt guide through the reduction train to the choke guide. The runners are positioned by 2-line static load testing which will evenly distribute the load imposed on the blank by making the line follow the curvature of the blank as closely as possible. I have found that this also produces the best casting distance. If there is a chance that you will use a larger reel or line, step up the size of the reduction guides to KL20-H, KL10-H, KL5.5M followed by the same runners / tip top. For a 6ft rod, you will probably use a total of 8 guides and a 7ft rod, probably 9 total.
This set-up is quite close to what the GPS software from Anglers Resource will recommend. However, I learned my suggested method from Norman Miller (THE Fuji Guru) and it works perfectly every time. The only slight deviation to Norman’s method which I prefer is to use as many KBs as the diameter of the blank will allow; I trust the robustness of the longer and wider foot of the KB but the width must be less than the diameter of the blank. Hopefully, Norman will reply and add anything which I may have missed.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I would suggest the Airwaves by American Tackle. Easy setup, very durable, and very cost effective. It comes with a guide for placement and there is no complicated math involved. I have these on many of my lighter builds.

Cory,
I'm new to this also having completed only a couple of builds . I lurked and read numerous post and the large majority suggested Fuji's KR concept guides . I have used the KL-H reduction guides that Mark and Leslie suggest and the KBs and KTs they suggest on both of my builds and I promise you that you can not go wrong with these guides . ( the little KTs can be a little difficult to wrap at first out toward the tip but still very doable if take your time - if I can do it , anyone can ) . There may be another guide train system equal to the Fuji KR system but there will be none better .

Agree on Fuji KLH suggestions above. It is all I use on spin.

Consult the AnglersResource.net link on the left. Make sure when using the software you use the KR software. For ultra light, if recovery speed and sensitivity are major goals, I use size 4 runners. Titanium for low mass. Use the Arowana titanium tiptop. On some blanks the little weight difference between stainless steel and titanium tiptops can be measured in True Natural Frequency which is a direct measure of recovery speed.

Are you familiar with the best knots for braid to leader? That could spawn another very long discussion. I prefer the Alberto because it's easy and almost as small as the more difficult and less reliable FG. Do two overhand knots tightly set with the braid tag end as a last step.

Cory
Also consider the American Tackle MicroWave options !
Rog

I'd recommend buying a kit first, it makes sure you've got everything you need to build your rod. Then after that, order parts.

Nothing worse than looking forward to a weekend building session, to realize you don't have the right winding check... ask me how I know, lol.