Hello everyone! I'm looking to build a fly rod. I seen a Ross flystik the other day in a 7'11" and it wasn't something I seen before as it was a 10wt rod. I'm looking for someone who might have a 7'6-7'11" 8-10wt fly rod blank or know of someone who manufactures them? Anything will help! Thanks

Well you said anything will help so......

What is intended usage? In my waters short, heavy power fly rods are used for bill fish. Often they aren't built on fly rod blanks.

But if you are looking for a "bass tournament legal" fly rod that is different.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

No worries! Nothing tournament related. I just want a shorter fly rod for bass/smaller pike for personal use. Gets heavy on the arms throwing around a 9-9'6" ft 9wt fly rod.

Bass fishing tournament rules is under 8 I believe, so look at bass Rods.

CTS will custom make or has options for shorter.

A few in glass too Barclay 777 or Graywolf 7/8



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/11/2022 03:53PM by Tim Scott.

Bass on a fly seems to not have taken off, Sage and others have quit building rods/blanks. Someone like CTS can maybe help.

Taylor.
CTS has a design for an Affinity-X 7'6" #10 - one piece fly blank.
As Tim and Spencer stated.
CTS will build any length and line weight - but there is a design fee to be paid.
The 7'6" #10 one piece is already designed - so no fee.
Design fee for 1-2 piece $136 U.S.. 3-4 pieces $204 U.S.
Plus cost of blank.
Herb
CTS Rep

PS - CTS built a 8'0" #10 for a friend of mine - but in glass. He uses it in a kayak.
PPS - Always like to do business - but those short hi line weight rods are niche rods. Fly guys in FL use them for short casts under dock lights at noight for large Snook. IMO - they make pretty Pi.. Poor fly rods for general use.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/11/2022 06:50PM by Herb Ladenheim.

I own a CTS Quartz Glass 8'-6" 4pc 10wt, beast of a rod, but not bad on the arm and shoulder. Its really not that heavy, sure a bit more than an Affinity X 910-4. I use mine for Pike/Musky.

I've also cast a CTS 8' 10wt Quartz, it was a 3pc, that might suit what you are looking for.

An 8-10wt for bass and small Pike, seems like over kill! I fish 5 & 6wts for bass. Don't fish Pike.

For bass, I like the TS Crystal Quartz, in 6 & 7 weights. They are soft enough to protect the tippet, but with plenty of backbone. They are surprisingly light in hand, with fast recovery, and a great swing weight. Herb can give you great recommendations, and pricing,

Tight Lies and frisky fish

RJF

Thanks



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/11/2022 11:43PM by Taylor Nelson.

Phil Erickson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> An 8-10wt for bass and small Pike, seems like over
> kill! I fish 5 & 6wts for bass. Don't fish Pike.


Thick pike I would add. Regardless of how big or small I'm using it for whatever lurks under those lily pads my friend. You never know if a musky or big pike will slam it and I'd rather be prepared then have my rod snap....

I think it's not the size of the fish as much as the size (weight and air resistance) of the fly that calls for the high power.

I also question whether at the end of the day a shorter than optimum (casting efficiency/length) rod will leave one in better shape than using an optimum length rod all day.

It depends on whether you cast the line or cast the rod.

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I think it's not the size of the fish as much as
> the size (weight and air resistance) of the fly
> that calls for the high power.
>
> I also question whether at the end of the day a
> shorter than optimum (casting efficiency/length)
> rod will leave one in better shape than using an
> optimum length rod all day.

Agreed ^ Casting a shorter rod all day will likely be more taxing than say a 9' rod.

Also the next post stating "It depends on whether you cast the line or cast the rod." is a brilliant statement.......

Yup. First the caster, then the line, and then the rod - in order of importance

A shorter rod will be less taxing, although it may not do what you want done.

...........

If it doesn't do what you want done then you try harder, and it very well could be more taxing than a longer rod that does well what it's supposed to do. We have to have a test run. Phil?

It's a poor workman (and fly-caster) who blames his tools.The fly-casting stroke is more important than the rod. Most of us at some point blamed the rod for our casting deficiencies, and tried to use strength (rather than timing and line speed) to fly cast. Others try to buy fly-casting proficiency, to the delight of retailers. Small-water/short-cast fly anglers think the rest of us are nuts!

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If it doesn't do what you want done then you try
> harder, and it very well could be more taxing than
> a longer rod that does well what it's supposed to
> do. We have to have a test run. Phil?

True^. A 71/2' in and 8 to 10wt rod would be more difficult to cast than a 9' rod. The OP's query sort of proves that since he can't seem to find a blank in that configuration. The longer lever is more efficient but up to a point. A 10 or 11' foot 10 weight rod would likely be too taxing to cast, while a 7' rod would likely take more effort to cast. One can verify this by looking at the blank offerings. Most fly rods land in the 9' +/- range. Shorter rods are useful in small streams for shorter casts with limited casting room, while longer (than 9') rods are generally nymphing rods which are not made for long distance casting. I do fish 10' rods for trout and bass though. The newer, lighter graphite blanks have extended the castability of some of the longer rod offerings. As with any rod, it's really up to the preference and ability of the caster.

Here's a great article dealing with the many variables in choosing a fly rod > [www.flyfisherman.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/13/2022 10:31AM by Tom Ciannilli.

Taylor: Before trying to purchase a solution to your casting-endurance difficulties, do you double-haul when you cast? The awkward stresses a shoulder-rotation overhead cast puts on the ball joint in your shoulder can easily be eliminated by learning how to double haul, which increases line speed (casting distance) while pretty-much eliminating stress on your shoulder. Or you could buy more rods to improve your casting, continue casting with your shoulder, and continue to suffer - while enriching rod retailers, advertisers, and shoulder surgeons. I'm 80 years old, I double-haul fly cast with as much accuracy as rod-waving casting, and as far as 90 feet.