If you put a layer of epoxy down prior to putting Decals on, how long do you need to let it dry before putting the decals on the epoxy?
Would it be the same as if you were to put another coat of epoxy on? or do you need to wait longer for the epoxy to dry before
putting the decals on and applying another coat of epoxy over them.

Thanks

Stan

I use peel and stick labels, and since I like to burnish them down aggressively, especially at the edges, I let the epoxy harden until it feels fully cured, sometimes a couple days. Aggressive burnishing with the decal protected by a layer of paper helps keep the edges from lifting. Then I apply CP thinly around the edges before the topcoat of epoxy.

Full cure here too. I leave the left overs in my dish from first application. Once the leftover finish in the dish no longer takes deformation from a fingernail you are good to go.

Thanks! That's what I was thinking since you have to burnish the decal on. Didn't think about putting CP on before epoxy. Can try.

I wait until the epoxy will no longer fingerprint (tested in epoxy remains). I have found this to give very strong adhesion and never had a problem with this process. As epoxy cures, it is not a "drying" issue.

Since CP dries quickly it seals the edge before the edge tends to lift. With slow curing epoxy sometimes it lifts the edge. It has a long time to work on the edge since it cures much more slowly than the CP dries.

Never had an edge lift with the process I use. (above) and never use CP.

Before using CP I would occasionally get an edge lift. Considering that there are probably hundreds of different specs on decals I think it's understandable that some might be better than others for edge security. I consider CP a good insurance policy.

Same here 1st coat I let it dry completely then I put decals and I wrap them with thread fairly tight let it sit for 10 min take the thread off and it’s good for second coat

I never put decals over any thread wraps.
As a result,I never put decals over any epoxy.
I only put the decals on a bare blank.

Then, when I do any thread coatings, I do the decals at the same time.

Note:

Prior to ever using a decal, I will take my drill index and select a drill bit that is somewhat smaller than the size of the rod blank at the location where the decal is going to be placed. Then, I will simply take a strip of paper and do a tight wrap over the decal, and place a piece of tape over that to secure the decal tight to the undersized drill bit. I generally do this a day or so before applying the decal.

Then, when it comes time to apply the decal, I have the blank cleaned and ready for the decal. I simply untape the paper wrap over the decal and use the usual procedure to apply the decal.

Since, I have pre shaped the decal to fit the rod, I typically have no issues with the decal lifting.

Then, when I do my finish application over the thread wraps, I coat the decal at the same time.

No issues with edges lifting that way.

An easy way to "clamp" a decal to the blank for a while before applying finish is to use electrical tape over a paper insulator over the blank/decal. Stretch it tight and there will be a lot of pressure on the decal. I don't have a power wrapper, so this is more efficient than thread.

Forgive the newbie question but I am getting some lifting on my decal edges. I think it’s due to not putting the decal over epoxy or a hard smooth surface. The lifting has occurred when putting the decal on a painted portion of the blank, and more recently over a section coated with polyurethane. I’m thinking the paint and poly are still leaving a porous surface? I have burnished the decal quite aggressively so I don’t know. I’d like to try the CP method but don’t know what it stands for… lol

Hello Dennis.

CP stands for Color Preserver.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Thanks for the Info.

The reason that I had asked(I see that Roger Wilson doesn't put Epoxy down) was because the directions at Decal Connection specify to put Epoxy coating prior to applying Decals.

Stan

I just applied 2 different decals on the same rod. One decal was applied over black D thread on top of two coats of epoxy. The other was applied over a light blue/grey D thread over one coat of CP. Both came out great with no issues. I needed to find out which works best for me.

I have learned the hard way that using heat to smooth out the epoxy lifts the edges of the decals. Avoid this mistake at all cost.

I considering making waterslide decals on my inkjet printer.
Paper is readily available. Has anyone tried these?
Pros, cons?

Hello John.

If you hit the search button type in "waterslide" change the time period to "all dates" hit the search, you will get 425 hits.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

John,
I have use SpinIt waterslide paper made by We R. (sold at Michaels).
They sell a clear and white background.
You will need to spray the finished product with a clear acrylic finish.
The finish I used was made by Mod Podge.